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  #1  
Old 11-24-2007, 11:46 PM
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What tools can get to tight places?

I'd posted some stuff over the last few days, about replacing the shut off valve. You just can't get your hands in that area for all the wires and hoses.

What tools are good for getting into tight places? I have a pretty good stash of tools, 254 piece Craftsman set, and all kinds of other cool tools. I do not have any S-shaped wrenches, so those are on my shopping list. I have some flex end racheting wrenches, but they were too big around on the ends to fit into that tight area. Can't win for losing. Have a wide enough mouth on a crescent wrench, but the handle is too long. Get a short ended handle, but the mouth doesn't open enough. It's maddening. I have crowsfeet wrenches, but you can't use a ratchet wrench in that area. At times, it's nearly illegal to get a job done. I had to cut a pair of channel locks to get them to fit into the tight area to get the alda off.

What tool do you find that's helpful for tight places?

Thanks,

Jeff 1991 300d, 114k
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  #2  
Old 11-24-2007, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbach36 View Post

What tools are good for getting into tight places?

I'm in my mid 40's. What exactly is a tight place anyway......
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  #3  
Old 11-24-2007, 11:50 PM
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a 4 year old child.

*edit*
^not in reference to jimmy's comment^
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  #4  
Old 11-24-2007, 11:51 PM
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I've used some short handled length 27mm to 29mm wrenches for those tight places. Short handled, open end wrenches, are invaluable.
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  #5  
Old 11-24-2007, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
I'm in my mid 40's. What exactly is a tight place anyway......
You know, when i saw the thread title i said, doesnt this belong in the "other" department?

Gear wrenches are a must. Magnetic pick up tool to fetch sockets and bolts off the top of the starter. A cuss cup to put quarters in when you cuss. You can save up for the m100 this way, or AMG if thats your fancy!
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  #6  
Old 11-25-2007, 01:05 AM
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On a 617 shutoff element the Gearhead 5 degree wrenches will not fit. I use a short box wrench for the 2 drivers side bolts and a 1/4 drive Sears Chraftsman socket set for the 2 passenger side bolts. Then I pull the shutoff element out along the block to the rear of the engine and remove it around the back of the oil filter housing. The U shape and S shape wrenches are usefull at times. But not on the shutoff element.

Also you must unbolt the tranny vacuum control unit on the top of the injector pump. Just the two top bolts. Not the IP linkage.

On the 616 engine I use just the 1/4 drive socket set. It fits quite easily.

Dave

PS you must also disconnect some of the vacuum line that are in the way. I highly recommend disconnecting the vacuum pump to booster line. It's easy to break the 2 nipple coming off the line and then its very expensive to replace. Removing it is easier. Also before disconnecting any of the components I recommend taking a digital picture of the lines and setup for easy reassemble
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Last edited by dmorrison; 11-25-2007 at 08:06 PM.
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  #7  
Old 11-25-2007, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmorrison View Post

I highly recommend disconnecting the vacuum pump to booster line. It's easy to break the 2 nipple coming off the line and then its very expensive to replace.
This is very good advice. You think you are being careful, then you forget for a second while focusing on something else, then "snap".....
Of course, ask me how I know.
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Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #8  
Old 11-25-2007, 09:46 AM
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Quote JimmyL:
"This is very good advice. You think you are being careful, then you forget for a second while focusing on something else, then "snap"....."

Yep, have to get out the epoxy almost every time I change the oil... and I do try to be careful... Anyone make a metal version of the vacuum valve/manifold thingy?

Oh, and I like a set of thin walled sockets and long extentions for tight spaces, just don't try to put a lot of torque on them....
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Last edited by mytimeyet; 11-25-2007 at 09:50 AM. Reason: back on topic
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  #9  
Old 11-25-2007, 03:41 PM
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Experiance, and small hands. If you have big hands like me, thats what a girlfriend/little kids come in handy for. The shut of valve is tough, I did mine with the manifold off so it wasn't.
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  #10  
Old 11-25-2007, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
This is very good advice. You think you are being careful, then you forget for a second while focusing on something else, then "snap".....
Of course, ask me how I know.
Was helping a female friend of my son's when I snapped her vacuum pump to manifold fitting. She was on her way back to college. Took the hose off my 300TD and got her on her way. So I had to buy my self a new hose.

They get brittle as they get old and so snap easily.

Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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  #11  
Old 11-25-2007, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79300sdtd View Post
a 4 year old child.

*edit*
^not in reference to jimmy's comment^
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