So after having an Infiniti for a couple months now, i have decided that i much rather have a w123, at least in some aspects.

So some things i noticed are, The Mercedes is much more "durable" all around. Such as the MB-TEX for one. So i decided that i wanted to clean my seats and was going to use some Armor all cleaning and conditioner on the Inifniti. That was a big mistake. When i sprayed it on, it kinda flaked the leather off. Luckily once it dried it wasn't that noticeable, and i used the old pencil eraser trick to fix most of it. thought being a perfectionist it will be taking it to have that part re-sprayed. Now on the Mercedes, I can spray that stuff on and even use a soft tooth brush to clean the dirt off with not consequences other than a clean seat.

Secondly. I like to keep The outsides of my cars looking just as good as the insides. So on my Infiniti there was a dealer sticker on it from were ever it came from (bought the car used) and so i decided to use this turtle wax buffing compound, as it has worked for every scratch i have had on the benz without fail. So after trying to buff this old sticker shadow off, i start getting a little black primer to show. I immediately stop and now it will be going in to have that fixed next week at a private shop i go to

So whats the deal? Why are things made so "cheaply" these days? I love this infiniti cause i drive a lot, and it has the power that i need that i just can't muster from my little 240D. This is why i love my Mercedes-Benz 240D. Cause not only is it dependable and i would take it to California and back right now, but also cause its easy to keep its appearance.

Just thougth i would share my love/ thoughts about the W123\

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1983 Euro 240D 277K
2016 Mazda 6
Coming Soon, 2013 Mercedes E350 Bluetec
Formers:
2012- Mazda 3
2007 Outlander- complete pile
1995 E300 Diesel 208K
2007 VW Passat 2.0T 63K SOLD
2003 Jaguar X-type 3.0 Sport Sold 04/11 w/88K
2009 Lexus RX350 9061 miles. Sold 04/09
2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS:Totaled Sept.,09 @ 24,000
2003 Infiniti I35 58K Sold
1984 300 turbo diesel 222K

I see two problems right off: that Armor-All cleaner junk and Turtle Wax rubbing compound. Both are old-school rusty axes when you need new-school X-Acto knives. Use Lexol for leather, not Armor-All. Use a fingernail and/or a plastic razor blade and some adhesive cleaner to remove old stickers, not rubbing compound.

Firstly Armor All and Turtle wax are junk. If someone gave me a bottle of Armor All I would throw it out before using it on one of my cars. (I have)

If you need to remove a sticker your best bet is to get a plastic scraper and carefully scrape it, use 3M Adhesive remover to deal with the rest. If you are realy good you can get it in one shot with a razer blade, but screw up and your paint pays.

You buffed through your paint, that was from holding the buffer in one spot to long. You can do that on any paint job, doesn't matter if its a Rolls Royce or a Kia. Fade marks from decals very often you cannot buff out, you just have to live with them, or paint them.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I do hear you on that buffing compound. Really can help my 240's paint out after it oxidizes like crazy (which it does alot, even with regular waxing)

BTW, don't get that self car-wash engine cleaner on yer paint. Makes it turn white with oxidation. a BIG pain to buff out, I still have some white on my dark red paint. Just too lazy to do something about it.

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'79 240D 4 speed manual 105k miles

Yea i kinda figured Turtle wax and Armor all were complete junk. what i was trying to get off was a sun fade from an old sticker. Guess i scrubbed a little to hard. (no machine here as i've always been scared of going threw to the primmer)

Anyways, what do you guys recommend for leather care products? I think i can fix the seats with a good conditioner/ restorer, but as you can see i dont usually select the best products... As far as the paint goes, i guess i'll have to live with it until i get it touched up. or maybe just slap another logo on the back .

As for the 240D, i was going to take it to a car detail shop here in town in the spring and have them polish it as it is showing light oxidation, and is eating the wax up. I think its just time to get it polished and buffed.

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1983 Euro 240D 277K
2016 Mazda 6
Coming Soon, 2013 Mercedes E350 Bluetec
Formers:
2012- Mazda 3
2007 Outlander- complete pile
1995 E300 Diesel 208K
2007 VW Passat 2.0T 63K SOLD
2003 Jaguar X-type 3.0 Sport Sold 04/11 w/88K
2009 Lexus RX350 9061 miles. Sold 04/09
2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS:Totaled Sept.,09 @ 24,000
2003 Infiniti I35 58K Sold
1984 300 turbo diesel 222K

I use the once-a-year wax from Walmart. It's only $7 per bottle. I've used it for years on all my cars, and the stuff really holds up. I don't think there's any reason to use the regular waxes, where they have to be re-applied every few months.

With dead paint, I use the Turtle Wax rubbing compound (it might be called something else than a rubbing compound, I forget the name, but it's from Turtle Wax, and other such light compounds will work as well). It removes the dead paint. Then wash that off, wax it, and you should be done, on most any car. Not sure how it would work on yours, but that should do the trick.

jeff 1991 300d

I use only:
http://www.meguiars.com/

Or

http://www.griotsgarage.com/index.jsp

When I actualy took care of my paint, I don't anymore because it needs a repaint. I would wax once a month, and buff/clay the paint once a year. Two coats of a good wax is only good for a couple of months. Although Meguiars NXT seems to last a very long time, since its synthetic it doesn't really like to be built up. The Griots paste wax you can build up, but it takes longer. I think Griots gives you a bit more clear of a shine. But at that point I am talking about show car quality results, most people don't put enough time into there daily drivers paint to get it that nice.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Do any of you guys use power buffers? I considered buying one the other day, but have seen a lot of cars with bad swirls in the way. I assumed it was the result of using a power buffer. Is that really the case? Or is it the result of poor technique?

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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

Umm... maybe Lexol?

I have used Zymol for about 10 years now and I have to say that it is the best freaking wax I have used so far. It is German, and the formula has been around for more than a hundred years since the period it was used in royal carriages. It smells good and protects my 300D in all weather.

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Save the planet

Check out griot'sgarage as Hatterasguy mentioned, They are now offering a paint sealant. I use their "best in show" wax. Pretty good stuff. I also have the random orbital buffer they sell, won't burn through paint, has a clutch or something. I am using up my Stoner interior cleaner, not bad stuff.
Don't use Lexol on MB Tex, leather only.
Zymol is pretty good too.

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83 SD

84 CD

On the original topic I can say that my '82 300D has been the best car I've ever owned. It lacks the silly grin on your face acceleration of my '70 455 powered Oldsmobile 442 but then again I'm not 23 anymore. The 300D manages to be not too big and not too small, has suspension tuned to be comfortable to ride in but is still nimble and hugs the freeway on ramps when needed, after 25 years the styling is not dated, and is just a pleasure to drive. It even gets great fuel mileage to boot. Heck I even like the Becker Europa stereo with the cool fader control in the center console.

As far as leather care leatherique (http://www.leatherique.com) is the way to go.

leatherique.com

Improper use of a rotary buffer in combination with a heavy cut pad and compound or any combination of the three can result in swirl marks and hazing/hologramming. When you say power buffer i assume you're talking about something like a makita 9227c or a hitachi rotary or maybe a dewalt. Not the ten inch orbital poc's you can buy for under 20 bucks. That machine is pretty much pointless, even for wax application. If you are looking into diy detailing look no further than www.autopia.org everything you need to know. I am one of the pro's there and would be more than happy to explain everything there is to you and what machine you should consider starting out with.

Leatherique is a fine product when used properly. leather master is also fantastic, only a little more spendy. If you decide to use the leatherique approach make sure you liberally apply the conditioner first (rejuvinator) I'd say 3-5 ounces per seat. Allow to dwell for at least 5 hours then remove with prestine clean.

Connelly hide food is another great long lasting leather care product, but once again spendy.

I prefer lexol on my leather house furniture. It really doesn't have the longevity many other products do, or the cleaning power.