The elusive 603 "TICK" - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

easy_asW123 · #1 11-28-2007, 08:24 PM

I'm new(er) to my 87 300D with the 603 engine in it and I've got an odd tick... Now I've totally given up on diagnosing the problem so this post isn't about ME, it's about the 603 in general and my opinion about all this. I've heard that all 603's have it, some have it worse than others, some say it's due to lubrication starvation, some say their engine doesn't have the problem at all and it's just in how you "treat" your 603.

Personally I think it's a lubrication problem, and if it's a lubrication problem I'd like to get to the bottom of it and fix it- because if it IS a lubrication problem, it's a problem.

What's everyone else think about the 603 tick? I'd love to hear what others have to say because quite frankly, it's baffling me

BodhiBenz1987 · #2 11-28-2007, 08:34 PM

Hydraulic lifters get stuck and make that ticky sound. It's common on 603s, but not exactly an enigma. You can either A) Ignore it B) Try to quell it by using a lower viscosity oil (like synthetic) or C) Replace the lifters. I replaced mine, and it doesn't tick anymore. Worth the money spent, and actually one of the less-vexing automotive issues I've had over the past few years. The difference was such that the engine's quiet idle just felt eerie for a few weeks. Where's the noise? Is the car actually running?

If the 603 has an enigmatic side, it's probably the wide array of starting behaviors that 603 owners seem to experience. Anytime someone gets a rough-starting 603, it seems that all of us 603 drivers chip in with a different account of 603 starting behavior. What works for one guy doesn't always seem to have any effect for the next guy.

babymog · #3 11-28-2007, 08:35 PM

The only 602 and 603 tick I've had is a leaking injector / heat shield. sounds like a lifter.

2.5Turbo · #4 11-28-2007, 08:59 PM

My 602 ticks too. It used to tick a couple times per revolution until I did an oil change with M1 5w40. Now there's only one tick. I'm thinking it's a lifter but probably should crack the injectors before I dig too deep and eliminate the injector problem. I believe the injectors are original at 111k.

Brian Carlton · #5 11-28-2007, 11:45 PM

Most older 603's suffer from lifter noise at various times........mostly random.

The '86 starts it's symphony after it gets very hot.........after a long freeway run.

Mobil-1 has been touted to reduce or eliminate the noise in some cases after about 10K miles. Otherwise, it's pull the camshaft and replace the culprit lifter(s)

68882 · #6 11-29-2007, 02:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987

C) Replace the lifters. I replaced mine, and it doesn't tick anymore.

So how much did that cost, or time taken etc? I suspect I need to do that next year, so need to start budgeting

C Sean Watts · #7 11-29-2007, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987

Hydraulic lifters get stuck and make that ticky sound. It's common on 603s, but not exactly an enigma. You can either A) Ignore it B) Try to quell it by using a lower viscosity oil (like synthetic) or C) Replace the lifters. I replaced mine, and it doesn't tick anymore. Worth the money spent, and actually one of the less-vexing automotive issues I've had over the past few years. The difference was such that the engine's quiet idle just felt eerie for a few weeks. Where's the noise? Is the car actually running?

If the 603 has an enigmatic side, it's probably the wide array of starting behaviors that 603 owners seem to experience. Anytime someone gets a rough-starting 603, it seems that all of us 603 drivers chip in with a different account of 603 starting behavior. What works for one guy doesn't always seem to have any effect for the next guy.

tell us, when you did the replacement did you also reinstall the old cam? with or without assembly lube? Also, is there a way to 'prime' the new lifters so they aren't dry on start up?

Thanks.

brandlj · #8 11-29-2007, 09:18 PM

Strange.....My 86 300sdl only ticks for the first 5 miles every morning. After it has been driven that distance, no ticking, and a very quiet idle. I have been using Mobil 1 now for the past 20,000 miles. I alsways thought it was a lifter and it really does not bother me anymore.

John

BodhiBenz1987 · #9 11-29-2007, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C Sean Watts

tell us, when you did the replacement did you also reinstall the old cam? with or without assembly lube? Also, is there a way to 'prime' the new lifters so they aren't dry on start up?

Thanks.

I should have said I HAD them replaced, sted I replaced them. Like the wimp I am, I had my trusty indy do it. No garage, no experience, no driveway, live on the 14th floor ... I decided to leave it to an expert.

I do know he replaced the old cam. I'd have to ask him about priming the lifters, as I'm not sure the reassembly routine. Someone else here might know.

Re: cost ... I can give you a ballpark when I have a chance to rifle through my records. I thought of it as "elective surgery." The car wasn't going to break down because of ticky lifters ... but it was simply annoying and obviously wasn't going to get better. It obviously was not cheap as the labor is considerable. For someone who is concerned about cost or doesn't want to go to all that effort, synthetic oil use might be of help.

BodhiBenz1987 · #10 11-29-2007, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brandlj

Strange.....My 86 300sdl only ticks for the first 5 miles every morning. After it has been driven that distance, no ticking, and a very quiet idle. I have been using Mobil 1 now for the past 20,000 miles. I alsways thought it was a lifter and it really does not bother me anymore.

John

I think a lot of people get ticking while the car is still warming up ... once warmed up the oil gets into the ports on the lifters and the ticking goes away. That's how mine started out and behaved for quite some time. Eventually it started ticking longer and then all the time. I never did try synthetic, though.

Hatterasguy · #11 11-29-2007, 11:59 PM

1. Remove cross over pipe.
2. Remove valve cover.
3. Clamp timing chain to sprocket.
4. Unbolt cam from sprocket.
5. Unbolt cam, following FSM procedure so it doesn't crack. $300 for a new one if you mess up.
6. Use a magnet to remove old lifters.
7. Lube new lifters with oil and slide them in, $30X12.
8. Repeat steps backwards.

Enjoy not having ticking lifters.

Its actualy a very easy job, I was shocked by how easy.

I reduced the ticking by probably about 90% using Delvac 1, give it 20k miles to clean. But it still pissed me off so I replaced them.

C Sean Watts · #12 11-30-2007, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

1. Remove cross over pipe.
2. Remove valve cover.
3. Clamp timing chain to sprocket.
4. Unbolt cam from sprocket.
5. Unbolt cam, following FSM procedure so it doesn't crack. $300 for a new one if you mess up.
6. Use a magnet to remove old lifters.
7. Lube new lifters with oil and slide them in, $30X12.
8. Repeat steps backwards.

Enjoy not having ticking lifters.

Its actualy a very easy job, I was shocked by how easy.

I reduced the ticking by probably about 90% using Delvac 1, give it 20k miles to clean. But it still pissed me off so I replaced them.

5. Did you remount the old cam on new lifters? Either way did you use cam assembly lube?

7. Did you dip the lifters in a cup of engine oil, pour it on them or prime it in some way like the oil priming procedure for the chain tensioner?
-thanks

Hatterasguy · #13 11-30-2007, 11:29 AM

No read the detailed procedure in the FSM. Just rub some oil on them they are self priming. They come already coated in oil from MB.

Replace the cam if you want but as long as its in good shape no reason to.

Again consult the FSM for greater details.

C Sean Watts · #14 11-30-2007, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

No read the detailed procedure in the FSM. Just rub some oil on them they are self priming. They come already coated in oil from MB. I have some that came in light machining factory oil but not motor oil, FSM states, "lubricate tappets before inserting.." but doesn't state how.

Replace the cam if you want but as long as its in good shape no reason to. FSM recommends checking for galling and excessive lobe wear but gives no measurements.

Again consult the FSM for greater details.

Unless my CD FSM is missing something, I got two pages including diagrams and required tool lists. I'm beginning to suspect that CD editions vary according to when they were produced and sold.

Hatterasguy · #15 11-30-2007, 01:21 PM

Ahh I did this a few years ago so its a bit fuzzy.

I poured some oil into a container and dunked each one in before installing, figured it couldn't hurt.

The cam looked like new I couldn't find any wear so I just put it back in, that was at least 15k miles ago and from what I can see through the oil cap its still free of any wear that the naked eye can see.

When I started my car a few months after doing this, their was no fuel in the hard lines so I cranked it a long time to bleed the system, and as a result I had over 1bar of pressure on the guage from cranking, before even attempting to start it. Its probably a good idea to do that and prime them.