Thanks for the superb write up. Any other sources for that pin socket? Some of those links didn't pan out. Did find one here for $68 bucks .
http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm

Any one have a spare?

I have the pin socket in the rental program. Contact me via e-mail.

I bought a pin socket from Technictool.com for $45. Good price BUT it seems too big for my new nut. When you said "hammer the socket in" is that because of the same problem I am having? I'm worried I will distort the sealing surface. Anybody have this same problem or are there other sizes of pin sockets or nuts?

I had to hammer the socket in because it was a very snug fit. If you allow the socket to work out the pins will sheer off and then your screwed.

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

Hi Dave, this is fantastic - so helpful that I am tempted to go for it myself...otherwise I've got a quote for $400 to $500 to have it done at a good German shop -- do you think that's pretty fair?

The noise I'm getting is a consistent propeller type at the rear -- couldn't be a CV joint could it?? The CV boots are both in good shape and no evidence of them having leaked their grease out...

Last question -- do you think it is OK to continue to keep driving the wagon in this state -- any chance of it damaging other parts??

Thanks for your time,

todd

for both?, I was quoted $-500 per wheel
I've got too much play for sure and have been putting it off because I haven't worked up the nerve to do it yet and it hasn't made any strange sounds or anything forcing the issue.... yet! If I really had confidence that I would get first class work I still might hire it done, but alas, when you most need really good work is when you usually don't get it

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Thanx,
Alberta Luthier
1983 300CD ('Stinky')155k miles, 2.47 diff, EGR removed, AAZ injectors with 265 nozzles from Sean,and vogtland lowering springs.
1984 300SD ('Old Blue')150k Klicks from Japan originally, came with rear head rests, no sunroof and never had an EGR

Does a brass drift really work for this? I did the front bearings and had to get a used hub from pick n pull because i destroyed my hub with a hardened mini crowbar (perfect angle to get at the race). I bought a brass drift and couldn't get the races to even budge because the brass just deforms and absorbs all the force. I ended up carefully using the crow bar to tap them out.

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1981 300SD 512k OM603

Yes use a brass drift. Or as you said you'll have to buy a new or used hub. The brass will flake off as it is used. that is because the brass is softer than the steel and the brass gives way instead of your hub. Make sure your tap the race in a circular fashion going around the edge, hitting the race every 10-20 degrees of its complete circumference. That way the race will not jamb in the hub.

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

Great DIY! I have been dreading this job, but after seeing this I'm confident I can figure it out. However I will be doing this on my W116, though I beleive its a very simalar setup. I ordered the pin wrench socket, and should have it by the end of the week. Looks like I just need to pick up a 3 jaw puller, guage, and the brass drift.

Some advice on these tools would be great.

Would this be an ok puller for the job?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876

I am having some trouble finding a metric dial guage for less than $130 but I may be looking in the wrong places. Anyone know of a good deal?

I, like many here, use Harbor freights dial gauge- $30 or less, with holder.

FYI- I have the pin socket in the Twin Cities if anyone local needs it.........

__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

You do not need a metric dial gauge, Dave included the decimal figures in his writeup The limits are 0.04-0.06 mm
SAE .0015-.0023Inch
Or 1 mark on my dial gauge is .001 Inch

__________________
DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, DON'T BE A HACK
Political Correctness is NOT part of my vocabulary
and finally FIGHT CRIME...SHOOT BACK

'82 240D Stick
'85 300D Auto
Drove my first MB at age 16 1960 300SL W190

On the front some heat from a Propane Torch directed on the hub often helps when knocking out bearings.
I do not know if this is possible on the rear.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yes it is but a brass drift and a hammer will do the job. Just hit the beaing race along the circumference of the race and it will move out. If necessary heat the hub, not the race. After all the grease is removed

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

You are right; I have never seen one fall out of the hub just by using heat alone. But the careful use of heat seems to help with most jobs where something is stuck and the parts are metal.

Another thing I have found is that it is better to use a heavy hammer 2-3 pounds. You can control the slow short tap much better and the drift stays in place better. If you hit it fast and hard with a light weight hammer the drift just wants pops off what you are trying to knock out.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'm in the middle of this job right now, but my pin wrench socket cracked while tapping it into the lock nut. Here is the email I sent to the company that sold me the socket.

"I purchased Mercedes Tool, Pin Wrench Socket, M107, 114, 115, 116, 123, 126 (Technic Tool: model M915-0207) from your company about a week ago. The tool was not a perfect fit to the lock-flange nut that it was designed for. While tapping the tool into the flange, two of the teeth cracked. Please let me know what can be done at this point to get a replacement. Thanks very much."

Their reply is as follows.

"There are a couple of problems:

• This tool is not designed to be hammered or used with impact- “tapping”-that alone voids the warranty.

2. I also spoke to our Supplier, and they said that there is a locking plate behind that nut, and that it is supposed to be opened and then the M915-0207 fits in- if the locking plate was not opened enough- there was no way that the tool would fit in there"


Now does anyone know what they are talking about? I see no reason the tool would not fit other than poor design. It wasnt just a little tight either, there was no way it was going to fit in. I actually had to file the pins down quite a bit before it even came close. Am I missing something here? How do I open this "locking plate"?? Nothing I have read suggests there is such a thing. Please Help.