Hello-

I am in the process of replacing my front brakes on my 84 300 SD. Its never been done since I owned the car for 3 + years (16 K miles).

Anyway, I have a few questions. I purchased a front brake kit, with cap, shield, race and bearings and I have new rotors and pads.

I also have a cracked right dust shield that has made clicking noises at times when I make harder rights.

I have my right rotor off at this point.

Here's my questions:

1) Is the dust shield necessary or can I just get rid of it (or do I have to buy another and wait for it to arrive....)?

2) Oddly, I just noticed that my old front set doesn't have a grease cap and hasn't for as long as I've owned it. There was some sort a Mercedes logo piece in the center of my hubcap, but no grease cap on either front wheel. That just seems so strange to me - and problematic. Is that odd or is there some reason for not having a grease cap at all? I'm surprised the old bearings haven't been worn down by grit...

Thanks...

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

It should have a dust cap. Newer dodge trucks 2wd are built that way, though so it is not surprising that it is fine without it. I would not run it that way though.

It will work without the dust shield, again, I wouldn't do it but most likely you will be fine that way. Can you cut off just the part causing trouble?

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Can you enlighten me as to what you're referring to as a "dust shield"??

The thin sheet of sheet metal that is behind the rotor.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

OK.......thanks.

Does it have another name?

Tom W

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

t, are you sure the OP is not talking about the dust shield in the tire? my SD's all came with steel dust shields pressed into the bunts. however, I read this as the rotor backing plate too. I never called it a dust shield though...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

"Cover plate" is the term in the MB service manual.

OK, here I am a little confused, your brake "kit" comes with a cap... what cap? and shield... what shield? , also, how are the flex lines on your car? if looking aged, they should be new too...

now here, is where we are getting confused, are you talking about the rotor backing plate? or are you talking about the dust shield in the bunt/aluminum wheels?
for this, I would get a new "hub" cap, not a hubcap... of course. also, in the center of the spindle there is a hole, it is for spring clip "static suppressors" some claim they are not needed, but I put mine back on, since you had not Hub caps, it's likely they are gone too. also, are your spindle nuts, split with an allen screw in the side? or has someone put a simple nut on there?

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I've always thought the dust shield you are referring to was a water deflector to help keep the brakes drier. But then again, I've never heard for sure what it was.

You could patch it with some JB-Weld epoxy and possibly a small plate with pop rivets in a critical spot until you locate another one. It's one of those things of fix it right or do as the PO and leave parts off (dust caps). It's a pet peeve of mine I guess, when I see missing parts due to mechanical shortcuts.

Also, I would definitely get some dust caps back on there.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

"Wheel cap" is the term in the MB service manual. Not to be confused with "wheelcap," of course.

Yep, I'm confused as well..........and to add further confusion.........how about the "heat shield"..........behind the piston face?

Look like I caused some confusion with my loose terminology. I apologize.

Apparently, the plate that I was calling a 'dust shield' is called a 'protective plate' at the Dealer and I did just order a new one from them for only $23.00. It has 3 screws and sits behind the rotor, as one of you noted. I may be able to patch the old one together with a rivet or 2 and JB Weld, but, just in case, its worth a $23 investment...

The 'brake kit' is really the 'bearing kit' (my bad) which includes most of the goodies - bearings, race, seal, grease cap (or maybe 'spindle cover'?). My old setup had no grease cap (spindle cover?) or static suppressors - but it does have the allen socket screw and spindle nut (if that is what it is called...). I was just surprised not to see a grease cap (or, spindle cover)...

Since I am replacing all the bearings with new ones, I need to pull my old race from the old hub (since I plan to reuse the hub). Is there a good way to do this, or do I need to take it to a machine shop?

Thank you!

__________________
dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

Depending on how tight it is, you can warm the hub and sometimes tap it out with many, many alternating taps on the inside face. It's no guarantee, but, might be worth a shot.

An arbor press removes it in 5 seconds with the proper anvil.

The outer bearing race is easy; you can get an appropriately sized socket behind it and knock it out. The inner one is more of a challenge. I use a large socket placed upside down on an extension bar. Then place the edge of the socket on the lip of the race, alternating sides, to knock the race out. It is tough to get a good "grip," but it can be done with a bit of patience.