617 head pull ??
 

I am thinking of pulling head off the 123 wagon Im being allowed to strip....but its outside (freezing) and short on time (sitting on flat bed going to wrecker when owner gets over his cold). So can the head be pulled with intake, turbo, and ex man inplace? are there any mystery or hard to get to brackets that would otherwise hamper a quick pull??

Thanks

Don't see why not. It'll just be a little awkward.

I think it could
 

I would say it could be pulled with the manifolds and separated from the exhaust. But it will make it heavier and it is a very heavy head without that stuff. You say the car is already on a flat bed, so you really don't have much of a place to stand when working, especially when trying to lift off that head. Can you get an engine lift that will lift that high - or a tractor with a endloader bucket to lift it. The head bolts are all in plain view. you need that triple square socket to get them, then the three small ones in the cavity of the cam chain. Cut the chain and pull it off. Also, the cam shaft has to come off first. But remember, it's heavy.

Also
 

If it is a wagon, then it is a head with the SLS pump in it. That makes it more valuable, but those lines would have to be separated. If your hands are not frozen or broken by the time you are finished, if you are just going for fast free loot, you should really pull the IP also, and that is on by three bolts only. But your hands might be frozen, so just think about it!

You could cut the high pressure line pretty easily, although it would only take a minute to unscrew it.

Pull it like you described. The hardest bracket to remove will be the one that comes up from the passenger side engine mount and the one that holds the expansion piping section on the discharge side of the turbo.

I did mine with all that stuff on, but there wasn't any way that thing was coming out the car without a crane. It was HEAVY! Remember that the hood hinges let the hood go up to almost 90 degrees. Oh, don't forget to take off the little bracket on the back of the head that holds the turbo oil line in place. I damn near ripped that oil line off the filter. Good luck.

Aren't there a few bolts on the head that are hiding from you? two inside the cam chamber and one outside in an odd place over by the cruise control unit (below it actually IIRC).

These will cause consternation if not removed.

Tom W

There's a support bracket that runs from the block to the underside of the turbo. You'll need to remove the entire bracket..........both top and bottom........to allow you to lift the head with the manifolds and turbo attached.

Good luck.........it's in a very bad place and the nuts have been on there.........forever. Get a torch and add copious amounts of heat.

I thought I remembered that bracket ....Thanks Brian. I already got the IP, injectors, doors, windshied, rear tailgate mostly rust free ( sorry winmutt someone already got the relay) a third seat that needs recovering and the rear side glass. I'll probably bail on the head, who knows....Ill pull the hydraulic pump....any other rear hydraulis anyone might need?

Just did that on one of mine, turbo and both manifolds all at once onto a different block and yet another different trans and then back into the car. .... even left the injectors in, so some of the head bolts wouldn't slide out of their holes .... just left 'em all in place and carefully lowered the head/mfld assy. in place on the block with a crane and an assistant. I swear I'm gettin kind long in the tooth for this hard work :). Won't start .... that's another thread :)

Its only 7 more bolts to take off the manifolds.

Yep, 6mm allens in the timing chain gallery and he needs long allen sockets. Meanwhile for quick cold weather cyl head pull I'd recommend cutting torch for fiddly bits, exhaust header etc. Entire operation could be done in couple of 1/2 hr intervals from nuts to soup, allowing for set-up time and whiskey breaks.

Key thing you oughta do though is save the rockers in ordered original arrangement to their respective camshaft lobes and same with stantions too.

One more thing....
 

There is a pin that needs to be pulled which holds the timing chain guide in place. It has female 5mm threads...pull it by threading in a 5mm bolt, and using washers/spacers in succession to pull the pin....very easy. Otherwise you will need to remove a link in the timing chain, or cut it..which may not be all that easy.

Mark