Questions on removing a 1985 300D transmission, How to questons.
 

I need to remove the automatic transmission from my son's car. I put in a new modulator and K1 spring to take care of a shifting flare and while installing the modulator, the front modulator bolt snapped off. :mad:
Soooo I have to remove the transmission and remove whats left of the bolt. If the threads are all galled up, which I suspect, you know just one of those projects, I will have to drill out the opening and install a heli-coil ( being very careful not to go through the case!!!). I will probably replace the front seal/pump seal while it's out. I will be reusing the transmission since it operates fine now since the items were replaced, and we don't have 5 speed to swap out anyway.:D
I have removed and installed manual transmissions in Fords and Volkswagons. But never done a Mercedes automatic transmission. Been lucky:D


I reviewed this post

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/88699-auto-manual-transmission-conversion-has-begun.html#post581868

And still have a couple of questions.

Things to remove to get the transmission prepared to remove.

Drain the transmission fluid
Cooling lines
Speedometer cable
Exhaust hanger
Neutral safety switch wiring.
Modulator vacuum line
Drive shaft, disconnect and move to the rear, then place to the side.
Transmission dip stick tube
Cross member
Shifter linkage, disconnect
7 bolts holding the transmission to the engine.
Jack the car up very high. Or use a lift.

Can you think of anything else????????

I will measure the total height needed considering the jack, transmission holder and the transmission height. I have very large 12 ton jacks ( 4) and will be careful. If I have everything together My sons friend has a lift we may use. Inclined to want to use the lift.:P

I figure the tranny weights about 100# I will use a jack to lower it.
I was going to cut some wood to make a level platform for the tranny pan to the jack plate and use ratcheting band/s to secure it to the jack.
Is it OK to use the tranny pan as a support or should I create something to support the tranny at the pan bolts only?

How far rearward does the tranny have to move to clear the input shaft from the engine?

Rleo listed disconnecting the torque converter. What is done to the torque converter to prepare the tranny for removal.


Additional question on the front seal.
Looking at the EPC net diagrams ( attached below ) The front pump seal is the item that is outlined in blue (#18). Is this correct. Are their additional items I should consider.

Thanks for the info.

Dave

Is it possible to cut a hole in the transmission tunnel and access the broken bolt that way. Would save a lot of work if it's possible.

It is, but I wouldn't do that. No sense in do that if the tranny can be removed correctly.
No offense I just believe in doing things correctly if possible.

Besides, Removing the seat, carpet, cutting the whole, figuring out how to fill the hole and with what. The replacement may get more complicated due to the galling of the treads. By the time you do all of that, I could probably have the tranny out and on my workbench.

Dave

Please write this up
 

No suggestions BUT....

Given your propensity for excellent documentation of your procedures AND my leaking front pump seal I must admit I'm looking forward (hoping for) the dmorrison write up on this one!

The tranny weighs more like 150+...it's heavy. Use the friend's lift and rent a transmission jack, chain the tranny to the jack and remove it that way. Reinstall the same way. You will not be able to keep the tranny attached to the jack and pull it out from under the car unless the underpan of car is >30" off the ground. Nevrtheless, a tranny jack is the only way to go when positioning it.

about 1-1.5""

There are six or eight bolts (sorry, can't remember the number) that fasten the TC to the flex plate. They have to be removed so the TC can come off with the tranny. I'd drain all the fluids from the pan and the TC.


Dave,
By disconnecting the front flex disk, pulling the rear mount out and dropping the back of the tranny downwards, you just may be able to access that area where the modulator is located. It would be worth a try. The valve cover will come in contact with the forewall and you'll need to tighten the valve cover when done but I'd try all that before pulling that tranmission.

R

I unbolted the tranny mount crossmember and unbolted the drive shaft center support to put the modulator in. The amount of access to the bolt for working on the area and eventually putting in a heli-coil, I would not be comfortable with. To much of a chance of screwing it up. If I drill to deep, I go into the tranny and then have to get a new case.


running-snail

If I do it at home and not on the lift I will make a photo journal on the job. Hell even if I do the job on a lift.

Dave

:thumbsup:

Be careful or you're going to have us start rooting for something to go wrong with one of your fleet so you'll have to fix it and provide us with another photo essay. :D
Might be a good time to acquire one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95640

Careful with that one-year-only tranny.....

Never root for something to go wrong. Something naturally will go wrong and then I'll have plenty to fix.

I already own the tranny adaptor.

Dave

I've been eyeballing that tranny adapter for awhile. Is if effective enough to be "worth it"?
BTW, we will never root for Morrison fleet breakage, but man we sure have been benefiting lately when it happens......:o:o

Haven't used the tranny adapter yet. One problem is my normal use jack is the long body HF unit with a 1 1/4 inch hole. The adapter is designed for a 3/4 inch hole so I have to get a bushing for it. Or I could turn one out of something on the wood lathe.

Yes this new 85 300D has presented quite a few "new" areas for the forum and myself. So I'm not so upset with the items. My son has been driving the 300TD since he flooded his Mustang and so I'm not "rushed" on this car.
However breaking the bolt head was a major bummer. The car was ready to go on the road and I screwed it up. Hate it when I do that.
Lots of you have been there. Just a little tighter and .....Snap, Oh $hit. I just laid there under the car looking at the bolt head in the 5MM allen socket knowing that I just created another 5-6 hours of work for myself. All for a 50 cent bolt.

Dave

The tranny weighs a little more than 100#....more like 140 or so. I just brought home a spare the other day. :D Heavy!

Sounds like you've already thought things out well. I think that a bushing made of hardwood would be adequate. It will only be centering the adapter, not supporting any weight.

As has been pointed out, this transmission is just too heavy to manhandle, even by two big guys that spend lots of time at the Gym. This is a job that would be WAAAaaay easier on a lift with a transmission jack rather than the floor. Having said that, a transmission adapter on a floor jack will make a BIG difference if done on the floor. What would be even better would be one of the floor transmission jacks with all casters. A floor jack with two casters and two fixed wheels makes it more of a hassle, but beats manhandling it.

It sounds to me like you've thought it through as usual which will minimize or eliminate surprises.

BTW, get ready for this thing to bleed red fluid all over you no matter what you do.

Hope this helps,

Kerry,

Daves response to your above comment is comforting. It's good to know that the attitude of one of the guys that's possibly up front in the plane that I'm riding in has this attitude.:)

I think you jinxed me.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/207720-dec-10-2007-best-times-worst-times.html

Dave

The TD engine is toast. Trying to figure out what I want to do.

Yep. If he was a rancher in Nebraska, he'd see things my way. :)