617 Valve adjustment, can't hand crank from PS pump nut - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#16 12-10-2007, 01:48 PM

I think the concern is that you will end up over-tightening the nut on the PS pump to the point where it will be a real PITA to remove if/when you have to replace the PS pump.

whunter · #17 12-10-2007, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s_misins

1982 300D Turbo sedan. Trying to do a valve adjustment. Have read all applicable posts without seeing solutions.

I am trying to move the engine using the Power steering pump nut and belts. I can't get to the crankshaft bolt because of the fan, etc. I also can't get up underneath. The cam moves some, but before I can get it to the closed position, the engine stops turning. I can't get it to move to the correct point.(http://dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm) says, "Number 1 cyl camshaft lobe pointing straight up, 90 degrees relative to the adjusting pad. To your eye this will look like the lobe is in about the 1 o'clock position."

I have seen some posts that say that taking out the glow plugs will help... That will be my next step. Any other ideas? Thanks.

From the front of your car, looking at the engine, the cam lobe should be at 1:00 o’clock position for each lobe you are adjusting.

Cam orientation post# 106

Valve adjustment OM617 FYI.
Valve adjustment OM615, 616, 617 FYI.

http://300sd.com/?p=14

kerry · #18 12-10-2007, 02:18 PM

I'm 54 years old and have never had to replace a power steering pump on any car I have ever owned. Hence my lack of concern about the tightness of the nut.

Jordan G · #19 12-10-2007, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

I'm 54 years old and have never had to replace a power steering pump on any car I have ever owned. Hence my lack of concern about the tightness of the nut.

You are my beacon of hope. I shall resume tonight and proceed with my slipshod methods.

Phil · #20 12-10-2007, 02:39 PM

I always use a remote starter switch. They are easier to use and they are cheap. If you wanted you could make a remote starter switch but I think it would cost more for the parts than buying one. I have had mine for a long time but I think I have seen them for well under $20.

#21 12-10-2007, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

I'm 54 years old and have never had to replace a power steering pump on any car I have ever owned. Hence my lack of concern about the tightness of the nut.

I hope I won't have to replace mine anytime soon; but at 400K+ miles, who knows? Anyway, I think that is why the method is not recommended.

Skippy · #22 12-10-2007, 03:10 PM

I did both of mine for the first time recently. On the 240, I used a combination of a hand on the fan (fixed fan in '77) and a wrench on the PS pump. I tried that on the 300, but the fan is of the clutch type, and the PS belt was too loose to turn the engine, so I just bumped the starter over with the key switch while watching through the gap between the cowl and the open hood. Worked fine for me.

toomany MBZ · #23 12-10-2007, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil

I always use a remote starter switch. They are easier to use and they are cheap. If you wanted you could make a remote starter switch but I think it would cost more for the parts than buying one. I have had mine for a long time but I think I have seen them for well under $20.

Agreed, with mobetta also, have a pic in the other computer.

300GD · #24 12-10-2007, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig

I think the concern is that you will end up over-tightening the nut on the PS pump to the point where it will be a real PITA to remove if/when you have to replace the PS pump.

I missed that the first time; thanks for the explanation. I guess I didn't feel like I was really honking on the PS nut that hard to turn the engine but I can now see why the absolutely foolproof, safe method is to use the crank.

280EZRider · #25 12-10-2007, 08:27 PM

Using the PS bolt comes from gasoline-engine procedures in which case, the spark plugs are taken out, eliminating all compression. It's a good method and it allows 1 person to turn the engine and see the cam position.

On a Diesel, with all its compression, I can't imagine doing it this way unless the glow plugs or injectors are removed. Otherwise, I agree with the other guys - use the crank-pully bolt.

s_misins · #26 12-13-2007, 03:19 PM

Good news. Better luck with the PS bolt, then used the starter for bumping it on later valves. No idea what caused the "locking up" sensation we had the first time. Thanks everyone. Finished the first car yesterday. 1978 may get it this weekend. Now the cars starts up right away, and runs smoothly.

pawoSD · #27 12-13-2007, 03:54 PM

That "locking up" sensation is one of the cylinders entering its compression stroke.