Poll... which way to remove instrument cluster to change light bulbs
 

I have searched and read articles in this forum about changing the instrument dash lights.

It looks split on wether to remove the cluster from the front using bent wire hangers and pull straight out

Or to remove the lower dash kick panel and push the cluster out from the back.

Who wants to vote on this, and I will follow the method of the winning vote getter.

Can someone give me details on the attached speedometer cable and oil pressure line, (specifically about removing them, or whatever I have to do with them to get the bulbs changed on my instrument dash lights)

poc, on 126, there isn't even a speedo cable to slow you down.
don't worry about getting slack in the speedo cable either, just reach up there and unscrew it. the oil line probably dosn't have to come out to get to the bulbs, but it's easy, just put a good 10mm open end wrench on there and unscrew it. after you have the cluster out a bit that is...

I find it quick/easy to just drop the lower panel and reach up to push it out. Whatever works best for you is OK.

Ditto, drop the knee panel and push it out. Takes 3 minutes and no wire gouges on the dash.

Don't have the wires hooks. Mines been out enough times that I push it in just enough to stay put, then I can easily pull it back out from the front and unhook all wires and cables. If it is really stuck, I'd definitely take the bottom panel off to save some cussing after I've pulled the clear lense off after not taking off the bottom panel.

It's "split" because the posters are talking about different cars.

For the W123 cars like yours, it's best to remove the driver's kick panel and push the instrument cluster out from behind.

For later cars such as the W124, W210, etc., pulling from the front using either the factory tool or a home-made equivalent is the way to go.

Jeremy

I don't know about the W123 AFAIK its hooked up to oil lines and a speedo cable. But on the W126's you just stick some hooks in the corners and pop it right out. Getting it from below is kind of a big job, their is a ton of stuff you have to remove.

On junk W126's I use a flat blade screw driver, works well but damages the dash a bit.

on my 2 126's no hooks are needed, I just grab the front of the cluster and pull it out. I put my thumbs on the two knobs and my fingers on the top of the cluster. simple simple simple.

On the W123, you can reach the back of the cluster without removing anything. The speedo cable and oil line should have enough free play to unhook them after it pulls out a few inches.

I tried that on mine its to tight, I need the hooks.

Ahh I figured that they are pretty different.

There is a clip in the engine compartment right in front of where the speedo cable enters the cabin on the firewall. It does help to unclip this. Usually gives another 2 inchs of length to the cable.

Use 2 wrenches on the oil pressure fitting. Using one will work, but weaken the gauge leading to a failure down the road. (Black diesel oil all over your feet and carpet)

The method involving 'snatch' is definitely more appealing to me.

I love snatch

I love to snatch kisses and vice versa . . . .

Done it both ways
 

On my 123 I started out by pulling the lower panel and pushing the cluster out but after that found it much quicker to pull it from the front. A putty knife is helpful to get under the bottom edge a pry/pull a bit while pulling at the top with a coat hanger hook. Changed my dash light bulbs at night in an auto parts store parking lot in about three minutes with this technique vs. laying on the ground with the door open pulling the lower panel.

I tried to push the cluster out on a 85 300D I had and I could not get my hand in deep enough to do it. Home made wire hanger hooks work easiest.

Cleaning the odometer
 

While we are on the subject of pulling the dash, (I hope this is not changing the topic too much) I am tempted to clean the numbers on my odometer because some of them are quite sooty and hard read. Is this advisable or will I be doing some irreversible damage. I was thinking of maybe some alcohol on a Q-Tip.

I used to pull them out with hangers all the time, but it always seemed a little precarious. I was always afraid I would crack something or break the circuit boards. So I started pushing them out from behind. It's much less chance of breaking something.

well it doesn't look like this poll is gonna help your decision making...

The hanger method is winning by as much as the presidents win the elections...he he:D

As far as the speedo cable and oil line goes. I usually push or pull the cluster out first then start disconnecting things. The speedo cable just has a threaded collar on it, usually can be unscrewed by hand. The oil line is a 10mm nut, so you will need a 10mm end wrench to get it off.

Actually, the push out method would be winning with 48% if we used the presidential vote counting process.

Now Now Now... I just really messed things up by making it 19 to 19! anybody got some leftover dangling chads?

I find it easiet to just pull the kick panel and give the cluster a shove from behind. Of course on the 81 the kickpanel is very easy to remove the later ones have a steel tube running inside the area if I remember correctly. it might be easier on those to use the snatch hooks...

Come to think about it I should get a set of those just in case...

hmmm snatch hooks, now what does that remind me of...

front or rear
 

can I remove this stuff from the top after it pushes forward, or do you have to get it from below?

You have to remove the cable, oil line, and wires from the top (tight squeeze). From the bottom you can just barely get your hand in place to push it out. You only have a couple of inches to work with once it's pushed out, but that's the only way to do it.

Depends on what you need to get to, removing the speedo cable gives you more access. Be careful when removing the oil line, you'll want to use two wrenches, one to hold the nut fastened to the cluster, the other to loosen the line itself.
Oh, and push from behind, on a 123, just reach up from below.
A 126, you'll have to remove a kick panel.

Don't feel bad, us W126 guys always get more. Having a back seat you can dance a waltz in has its advantages.:D:nice:

I find removing the front left speaker quicker than the kick panel. Then just reach in and push. I just leave my speaker unattached for this very reason. On the 240, I have no kick panel, thanks to the PO, so sometimes I mess with the bulbs and whatnot while driving just for fun.

i just took out the instrument cluster to day for the first time and pushing it out through the back hella easier than trying to push a coat hanger i would think. took like 2 minutes not even.

Thanks for answering a question I had not even asked yet. I'm thinking mine may need to come out soon for a bulb replacement. Now, I know how. Thanks.

and the result is......drumroll please
 

I took the kick panel off, and went in from the rear. It pushed out real easy, and I had enough slack to where I didn't have to undo any cables. Bulbs changed, done in about 5 minutes. Very easy and now I can see how fast I am going.

I removed the kick panel and pushed it out. I did not want to make or buy hooks and I also was worried what else might get hooked if I tried it without knowing what is back there. I also worried that squeezing the hook between the dash might damage the old dash and the old plastic on the panel itself. So, I took the safest way out.

I made my dash pullig tool from a 8" x 1/2" piece of steel shipping strap, very thin. Heat the end and bend a little past 90 deg. only a 1/8" hook. Easy to slip in on top of the dash then move to the side to hook into the proper slots. Give a tug and out she comes. Repeat on other side.

I made the little hooks to remove it from the front, and thats way easier than undoing all the screws that hold the kick panel on. Why bother with all that when the hooks will have it out in seconds? :confused:

Exactly- it works on the W123 too. Much faster.

Glo Lite
 

OK, so I just grabbed the two adjusting knobs on the cluster, odometer and clock. I wiggled them ever so gently and ...wwwooooosh! The cluster just slid out. I had to remove it to send out the speedo for recalibration. Problem is now the glow plug light works intermittently. Put a new bulb in it, checked all the connections, nothing. I was also EXTREMELY careful when I had the cluster out as not to pull on anything too hard..........no clue!

Back from the dead topic.................

On my 1986 300SDL there was no way to go pushing from behind because of the a/c baffling running thru there. I made the tool(s) from a thinner gauge clothes hanger and inserted them about 3:00 and 9:00 and slowly pulled. She came out no problems. To get at the rheostat you only need to unscrew its one fastening screw and then pull outwards on the rheostat. I never change the brightness of my cluster lights so I simply soldered a wire between the two poles on the back of the cluster. For added peace of mind I put some Devcon 5-minute (1hr cure) epoxy over the soldered wire on the poles. Vibrations and soldering don't really go together. Now I'm good to go.

I don't have this problem, the previous owner removed the screws anbd installed industrial Velcro in spots. It's real easy to go in from the rear, for that reason.

And...as you may or may not know... going in from the rear can have some unique charms as well :D

What I find works best on the 300SDL is a paint can opener from Lowes! It fits right in and the little spoon shaped hook works great.
I keep one in the car with the spare bulbs.

I took 2 welding rods and made tools.W140 pulls out too.

Recycled
 

for new members

Hey, if you lower the under dash plastic cover, you can get at most of the bulbs, with a little care, without removing the cluster.