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  #16  
Old 12-17-2007, 09:35 AM
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Hijack alert!
I have had increasingly difficult starts, especially with a hot engine, and decreased fuel economy. I've replaced all the glow plugs, checked everything else for leaks, replaced the primer pump, and am thinking at this point it is the delivery valve seals, especially since I've been running a lot of biodiesel over the last year. Do these symptoms seem to all of you to confirm my guess? The top of the IP looks dirty, oily, but I wouldn't say it looks like it's just 'wet'.
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  #17  
Old 12-17-2007, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhanson View Post
Hijack alert!
I have had increasingly difficult starts, especially with a hot engine, and decreased fuel economy. I've replaced all the glow plugs, checked everything else for leaks, replaced the primer pump, and am thinking at this point it is the delivery valve seals, especially since I've been running a lot of biodiesel over the last year. Do these symptoms seem to all of you to confirm my guess? The top of the IP looks dirty, oily, but I wouldn't say it looks like it's just 'wet'.
If you have a leak on the delivery valve, you will know it as it will show fuel coming out of the leaking valve!! But you have to observe it when the engine is running. If its off, there is no leak.

However, fuel leak in the delivery valve would not normally cause hard starting. In my case (and I would say in most cases), air inside the IP and the lines will cause hard starting. Air in the lines purges when the engine starts but air in the IP will perpetuate the problem. The only way to remove air in the IP is to pump the primer pump untill you hear it make a buzzing sound. That means, you have vented the IP.

IMHO, its always good to start with the simple stuff first.

Hope this helps.
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  #18  
Old 12-17-2007, 10:30 AM
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IMHO, its always good to start with the simple stuff first.
Absolutely agree, but it feels like I've done most of the 'simple stuff'. Also I'm reading your post, and it seems like you are saying that there could be air in the IP even after running the engine? Not sure that makes sense to me. Can you clarify?



Ben

Last edited by whunter; 02-01-2010 at 06:04 AM. Reason: removed bad links
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  #19  
Old 12-17-2007, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by bhanson View Post
Absolutely agree, but it feels like I've done most of the 'simple stuff'. Also I'm reading your post, and it seems like you are saying that there could be air in the IP even after running the engine? Not sure that makes sense to me. Can you clarify?


Ben
Take it from me, the IP can start with air in it but only after xxx number of cranks - and then again it may not start. I did not know about air in the IP until I read the FSM. I was sort of pumping the primer just for the heck of it as I did not know what else to do. This is probably what made it start - I came close to venting it but not totally. Finally, I read the FSM and lo and behold, it says the IP has to be vented by the above procedure I explained. As soon as I did this, it started at first crank. If you have not tried it yet, what have you got to lose. Make sure you hear the buzzing (or squeaking) sound.
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
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97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
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Last edited by whunter; 02-01-2010 at 06:05 AM. Reason: removed bad links
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  #20  
Old 12-17-2007, 11:57 AM
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There is a tool rental program going on click on that thread I believe that 2 parsons were renting their socket.
The socket sells on Ebay for around $40 and you also have to pay shipping. 2 Ebay sellers Zdmak and El Paso tools. I also comes up for sale by private owners on Ebay.
The companies who support this site most likely also sell it also and might make a special effort to get it to you faster.
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  #21  
Old 12-20-2007, 09:11 AM
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Pumped the *(&#@ out of the primer pump last night when it wouldn't start hot. No change. It really does act like it's not getting fuel. A spritz of WD40 in the intake and it starts right up - immediately. I'm still thinking somehow it's losing prime....fast and it's more prone to doing so the IP is heated up for sure. There's no air coming in from the incoming fuel side; I have a sight glass inline right before the injector pump. The delivery valve seals have been reported in other threads to cause this phenomenon, even without any major leakage. Where else could I be losing pressure or sucking air?
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  #22  
Old 03-02-2008, 09:08 PM
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I just ordered the crush washers and o-rings to do this job. I have some leaking and a slight miss at idle that I hope to fix on my OM 603.

Any advice from those who have done this before? Also I want to confirm that the torque spec is 35NM.

Thanks.
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  #23  
Old 03-02-2008, 10:30 PM
Wayne
 
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Jim@fryerpower.com has vition delivery valve o-rings for replacements. They work well if you use biodiesel or veg oil. The copper washers only available from the dealer as far as I know. It's also a good time to replace your injector return lines, viton line is also available at fryerpower. Replacement is real straight forward, just keep everythiing real clean. I have the 30 point socket available also.

Wayne
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  #24  
Old 03-03-2008, 01:58 PM
lrg lrg is offline
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Thanks Wayne. I ordered the socket too, cheap considering the savings vs. having someone else do it. I replaced the fuel return lines already. The IP is starting to really leak, probably due to age and the use in Cal of ULSD. I'm overdue for the project anyway.
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  #25  
Old 03-07-2008, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lrg View Post
I just ordered the crush washers and o-rings to do this job. I have some leaking and a slight miss at idle that I hope to fix on my OM 603.

Any advice from those who have done this before? Also I want to confirm that the torque spec is 35NM.

Thanks.
Per the FSM, the tightening is 2-steps. Tighten to 30 and then to 35. As I discussed above, I did this on my 617 IP. Does not leak anymore. I believe it was the rubber washers that were bad but I replaced both.
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa
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  #26  
Old 03-07-2008, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrench56 View Post
Jim@fryerpower.com The copper washers only available from the dealer as far as I know.
Wayne
Any injection repair shop will have it; just give them the Bosch pump number or serial number. I got mine from Seattle Injector Service.
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