The following is a recap with pictures of all the tools that can be made very easily at home to remove the injectors, prechamber collers and prechambers on a 617.9xx engine. All tools worked exceptionally well and some of the ideas came off this site from previous threads, however I was not able to find pics (that does not mean they are not there). The entire job after the tools were made took roughly 4 hours and went very smoothly. The only hitch was with the collars, 2 of them came out easily with the homemade tool, the remaining 3 had to be loosened with a hammer and chisel because the collar started to break apart using the tool. During assembly the tool worked like a charm.
Feel free to PM me if any additional details are needed.

To remove injectors, I used an old cornwell deep impact socket 1 1/16 and used a carbide bit to grind down the interior walls to accommodate the injector weep ports. This took about 20 minutes.......Cost $0 plus labor.

To remove prechamber collars, I used an old cornwell 7/8 shallow impact socket and used a cut off wheel on a die grinder to cut notches that fit in groves of collar. This took about 5 minutes.....Cost $0 plus labor. It was also helpful to use the bicycle crank tool installed into the collar (just happened to fit the 7/8 socket perfectly) to stabilize the socket so it would not slip out of the groves.

To remove prechambers, I used a slide hammer purchased at a local tool shop for $10 and using info from this site I went to the local cycle shop and purchased a bicycle crank extractor tool for $20. Using a cut off wheel on a die grinder I removed the crank handle and took the rest to a local welding shop where they welded the inner bolt of the crank tool to a part of the slide hammer for $10.

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For those needing or wanting instructions.

1) Pull throttle linkages off and out of the way.
2) Remove Injector lines from injectors and pump and set aside.
3) Remove injectors and injector heat seal (I used an old dental pick)
4) Remove glow plugs.
5) Remove prechamber collars.
6) Screw tool into prechambers and extract using slide hammer (Mine took about 10 smacks each but I have heard of others that were very stuck)
7) Make sure prechamber seal ring is also removed.
8) Clean out any carbon / soot / dirt.
9) Using new prechamber and new seal ring, thread tool into prechamber and tap into place firmly.
10) Install new collar
11) Install new glow plugs.
12) Instal new heat seal and Injector
13) reconnect injector lines, throttle linkage and glow plug wires.

Perfect!

Thank you for the Special Tool making DIY.

I suggest these changes to your instructions:

For those needing or wanting instructions.

#0. Take pictures for reassembly and routing, BEFORE work begins.

#1. Pull throttle linkages off and out of the way.

#2. Remove the STEEL Injector lines from injectors and injection pump, flip the line set up side down, cover the line ports to protect against dirt/grit, and set aside.

#3. Cover the injection pump delivery valve ports against grit/dirt.

#4. Remove the injectors.

#5. Remove the injector heat shields (I used an old dental pick to remove the shield).

#6. Remove glow plugs, brace the wire harness connector so it does not twist off.

#7. Remove prechamber collars.

#8. Screw tool into prechamber and extract using slide hammer (Mine took about 10 smacks each, some prechambers have been known to require heavier force).

#9. WARNING: Make sure prechamber seal ring is also removed.

#10. Clean out any carbon / soot / dirt, use a vacuum cleaner with a wide bore drinking straw taped to the nozzle for reaching into the cylinder.

#11. WARNING: You MUST install a NEW prechamber seal ring every time the prechamber is removed, this is a single crush seal…
OM617 part numbers are:
Standard seal ring MB# 6150170060
Repair size I; 2.3mm MB# 6150170160
Repair size I; 2.6mm MB# 6150170260
Repair size I; 2.9mm MB# 6150170360

#12. Using a good used or new prechamber, thread tool into prechamber and tap into place firmly.
OM617 prechamber number is:
MB# 6170100352

#13. Install new collar
OM617 prechamber collar number is:
MB# 6150170003

#14. Install new glow plugs, WARNING/DANGER: you can break the tapered seat in cylinder head with excess force.
#15. Install a NEW heat shield. WARNING: You MUST install a NEW heat shield every time the Injector is removed, this is a single crush seal…

#16. Install wires onto glow plugs. WARNING/DANGER: This is an electric connection, the eight millimeter nut should be tightened with a wrench, and final torque is applied using one finger tip = any more force will damage or break the electrode = destroy your new glow plugs.

#17. Install STEEL injector lines, and looped fuel return hoses.

#18. Install throttle linkage.

#19. Prime the fuel system one hundred strokes.

#20. Start the engine.

#21. Use 50/50 solution of dish soap/water to inspect for prechamber combustion leaks.

I cut like 3 sockets and none of them would hold for the 120ft lb (or however much it was) of torque to torque the collars down. Or even take them off for that matter. And looking at your pics you had trouble getting them out as well. The $75 I spend on the collar tool was worth IMO.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Excellent revision to instructions.
Thank you for the added detail.

Reading posts on this service procedure and have a question, does the OM603 series engine in the 350SDL have the same service procedure ? I am in process of acquiring a 91 350SDL and am attempting to do any maintenence items that will keep this motor together . Am not familiar with MB diesels but have always been a good wrench turner/problem solver type . Have read '' extensivly " about the 350 SDL issues so I'm not going into this blindly. Thanks for any info !

The 603.97X 350 engine uses an inclined injection system with a physically different design. This engine does not use the prechamber rings pictured in the preceding posts, the inclined injection system uses prechamber rings with a design of internal serrations and as a result requires a specific socket with external serrations into which they interface in order to remove them.

On our old cars the precombustion chamber should be taken out and inspected way more often than it happens.... they are the critical place where all the physics which makes a diesel a great engine come together... if they are messed up all the other things which are usually done trying to get power and good mileage out of these engines is for naught.

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

ST3000
Pre-Chamber retainer nut socket
Use with extractor 602-0033
Engines: 602 603 604 605 606 ( 1986-1999 )
Fastlane:
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=ST3000

602-0033
Impact Extractor, Slide hammer with 902-0033B threaded adapter for removing Diesel Pre-combustion chambers, application: OM601, 602, 603, 604, 605, 606, 615, 616, 617.
Fastlane:
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=602-0033

I assume that the second "603" should read "606."

Hmmm, guess I should post some pics of the prechamber tools I came up with.

Corrected the typo.