On mine, I had the seals replaced after a leak and about 1000 miles later it developed another leak that appeared to be lower than the seals. At that point I just replaced the silly thing with a reman unit (probably what I should have done originally).

Sell it as a limping dog and let an enthusiast try to sort out the issues?

Buy two cans of Carb or Brake Cleaner (the latter is my preference), warm the engine, spray down everything in, on, above and below where you believe the leak is comming from starting from the top and then run the engine for 15 minutes and look for teh source of the leak using a mirror and flashlight and/or finger tips.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

After you get the fuel leak repaired, the very next thing you need to do is change the engine mount. I guarantee you it is toast from being soaked in diesel. Lot's of personal experience on this one.

Ok, I guess I hadn't mentioned that the leak was fixed. At least the major leak. The mechanic wants it for a full day this coming week to tear down and re-check. To address another recent quote, the motor mount WAS replaced last week, just before the o-rings were replaced. All 5, not just one cylinder. There is no apparent leak currently, but there MAY be seepage. Hmm, should I re-state all the symptoms again? I thought I had been rather forthcoming as to the problems.

Let's start at the beginning.

First, there was a stutter at startup that happened twice, on different days upon first starting the vehicle after an extended rest period (at least 5 hours sittting). Temps ranged from 30-40 F. One night on the way home it developed problems, only about three miles from the starting point. It shuddered and did not idle smooth and lost ALL power under 1800 RPM. I made it the rest of the fifteen mile ride, but having to keep the rpm's up to avoid a stall. That evening, the vehicle refused to start (stuttered once, then on re-start just cranked). I followed the priming procedure in the manual, fearing air in the lines. This allowed the vehicle to start.
The following day I purchased the fuel filters and replaced those. Followed the priming procedure again, and it ran for a short time without issue, but the problem soon returned. This is when the leak started in force.
Back at the shop for the o-ring replacement. When I got it back it ran passably for the first couple minutes, then began to miss pretty evenly, as if one injector was not working. Also it was a COMPLETE dog under 1500 rpm, taking about 20 seconds to get to 25mph. Brought it back to the shop and he pulled everything apart and found a tiny bit of the old o-ring in the system. He cleaned it out and put it back together. Again, when I picked it up it ran a little better than the last time, but soon the symptoms returned. They seem to have gotten worse than the first time I got the car back. Stopped by there this morning and after a bit of fiddling we were back to the same situation. SEVERELY low power under 1500 rpm, white/blue smoke at idle, rough idle et cetera. I drove it to work and back (about 30-35 miles) and by the time I got home it was shuddering as bad as ever, but not much worse. Restarted about an hour later, it refused to run after three starting attempts, but coughed to life on the fourth, just barely. Still no power and still bad idle. As far as I know the only thing the mechanic did was the o-ring replacement and follow the troubleshooting procedure of removing/switching injectors that first time the car went back after the o-ring replacement.

So, to cover the 'leak' issue. I saw the leak myself. It was coming out of one of the nubs on top of the injector pump. It was pooling on the top and flowing down off the bottom at about a drip a second. That leak is no longer there. To answer another question, the symptoms came on that one day on the way home from work. They have never basically changed. After the o-ring replacement they went away momentarily. After the fiddling the following day they also went away a bit, but came back. The only thing that didn't come back until today was the not starting thing. That's back in the equation now as well. Anything anyone needs to know in addition, please ask, as I will do my best to fill in the blanks.

Limping dog, eh? Yeah, other than that fine piece of (scheisser) german engineering they call the engine, she's one really sweet ride. This would be a hell of a find for a mechanic. She got 32 mpg before all the problems started, and since the motor mount and ball joints/steering link/PS pump she rides smooth and tracks laser straight on the highway. Shame about these problems. Anybody think I could get $4k if the rest of the car's in the shape I described? Only 112k miles, 1990 300D, black/charcoal & tan interior, by the way. Maybe 3 and a half thou?

Be careful. Back in the 1970s a man in New York City put in an add selling his car for 2000 and something Bananas (to him Bananas ment dollars). A man brought him the 2000 and something actual Bananas and he had to give up the car as that is the way his add was. THe seller donated the
Bananas to one of the homeless type shelters.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

First thing you do is as follows:

1) Remove the fuel filler cap and drive the vehicle. See if the problem recurs or not.

If it's still the same, put the cap back on and do the second thing:

2) Rig up a can of fuel under the hood. Run the supply line and the return line into the can. Drive the vehicle and see if the problem recurs.

If it's still the same, connect the hoses back to the OE setup.

Third thing you do:

Check each cylinder for firing at the time when the symptoms are the worst.............at idle with the engine fully warm. Crack each injector line, one at a time............and see if any one of the five has no effect on the idle.


Report back after you've fully completed these three tasks (maybe only one or two of them if you get lucky).

will do.

over and out.

you know, I actually had one idiot try that about three years ago at my business. I run a custom shop, so it's rather informal. I quoted this guy a "buck and a half" for a medium sized graphics job on his car. The jackass actually tried to get it for $1.50. Unfortunately for him, this is the real world and not a logical fantasy, so he left disappointed.
I may have eaten the bananas, but I wouldn't have "eaten" the bananas if you get my meaning.

I just replaced the delivery valve copper o-ring and rubber seal on the No 5 line of my 80TD a few days a go.

It was a very easy process.

The one thing you have to be careful of is making sure the area is very clean and that no particles get in there while you remove the old ring and seal and install the new ones.

And of course, the 3-step torque procedure.

You must also ensure that there is no Air in the IP. I don't know how its done on a 90D but in the 123, you must pump the primer till you hear the IP buzz. This indicates that its fully vented. It took numerous pumps. Also, line to filter must be bled.

Simply priming it does not do the trick if there is any air in the IP. You must hear the confirmation from the IP.

__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa

The seller of the car seems to have taken the whole thing in stride and will have a good story to tell for the rest of his life.
But in his case it was a written add that I believe was in the N.Y. Times. When it is written down someone has something they can to take to court if they want to. I mentioned the story because the member who started the thread is already having enough trouble with his car and when frustrated we sometimes say stupid things (at least I do). He surely needs no one trying to get his car for $4 or less.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

duly noted. and edited. I usually don't forget the "k" when I use single digits.

Ok, seems to be good news. My mechanic went over the delivery lines & system with a fine tooth comb, found some more contamination and cleared it out. He buttoned everything back up and took it for a ride, no problems. So far I drove it home and ditto for me. I'm driving it back up to my shop tonight to put in some late hours, and we'll see how she reacts to that. Personally, with what's happened, I think I'm in the clear. So no limping dog here, but she's DEFINITELY going up for sale SOON. Going to have her detailed next week and take some photos so I can post a nice ad here. This is a find, guys.... really nice shape and quite a few new parts in her recently.

Thanks everyone, for all your help and concern. I may be moving on to other forums, but I will be sure to bring the attitude of cooperation from this one to the next. Happy new year everyone, and let's hope this is my last post before the sale posting.

Cheers!

I'd really like to find out what that mechanic actually did. He certainly didn't "clear out more contamination".

But, the bottom line is that it's fixed and is running well for you. Good luck with it.

A rough ride but a happy ending!!!

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel