78 CD300 purchase price question - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

networkboy · #1 12-20-2007, 12:18 AM

What would be a fair offer price on a 78 300CD with 250K on the clock.
Assuming that some major bits have yet to be done (timing chain, etc.) and plenty of small bits (mounts, etc.)
what would the more experienced members consider paying for such a beast?
The interior is said to be in great shape and "everything works".

I'm also assuming there is no rust as this is a California car, and that there is no major issues with the engine or transmission. Finally what "field tests" would you run to see how it looks (besides crawling around it with a flashlight, driving it, and possibly the tea kettle test* for blowby)?

Thanks as always

-nB

* This is loosen the oil fill cap and put your thumb over the breather line to the air filter housing correct? How long to hold your thumb there? How much dance is too much?

JackG · #2 12-20-2007, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by networkboy

I'm also assuming there is no rust as this is a California car

Assume Nothing!!!!

Have the car inspected at you expense by a mechanic of your choice.

networkboy · #3 12-20-2007, 09:17 AM

Which of course is what I tell everyone else

Just wanted some opinions as to a starting price "pending a report from the mechanic". He's asking $5K

It's been re-painted etc. and looks nice in the pictures, but until I see it in person I won't know. Also I wanted some ideas of what to look for to ensure it's not a basket case before I bring it to my indy for an inspection. I.e. I do the tea kettle test and the fill cap blows 10 feet from the engine then I think I would offer about what I paid for my current ride. If I don't find anything horrific then I'll leave a cheque as a deposit and drive the car to the indy.

mobetta · #4 12-20-2007, 09:32 AM

REpaint- Why??? ya gotta wonder what it's hiding....

vstech · #5 12-20-2007, 09:35 AM

aaack. gotta love the older n/a motors, that series glow system, mmmmm that wonderfull 3.46 or so rear gear ratio, the really cool crysler climate control system, and that fabulous heater servo. and if you have good hearing, the wonderfull full on drone of the motor at any speeds above 60MPH...

networkboy · #6 12-20-2007, 10:32 AM

Do I detect some sarcasm?

I only have experience with my 300DT, so pointers on whether or not to even spend time on this one would be appreciated...
I particularly would prefer an SD for a second car, but as I am ditching the truck, would like a spare ride in any event. I assumed a clean-up and refit of the glow system would be high on the list, but so long as the engine has decent compression and minimal blowby I figured I could give it a try, and if anything attempt to get it running well and then sell it for a couple duckats.
Also, How little/much of this car could be used for parts for the 83?

Cheers,
-nB

networkboy · #7 12-21-2007, 09:25 AM

Looked at it yesterday. Aside from the return lines leaking like mad all sounded/looked well in the engine compartment. The transmission was not even registering fluid on the dip stick, so I added some fluid prior to test driving it (they started it before I got there as it had a dead battery). I'll be able to check cold starting if/when I take it to the mechanic anyway.

The car is *clean*. Expected grime in the wheel wells, but no signs of rust anywhere, dash looks good, trim looks good, seats look good; seat adjust lever handle broken, lights in dash dead, CCU at least partially operable... and I think the compressor is dead.

Paint job was explained well enough (PO had a 300CD and was totaled, so she bought another one but didn't like the color).

So I told them if the mechanic comes back tip-top then $3K is my high end. Any thoughts on how much to deduct from that amount for a bad CCU &/ compressor?
Am I off base on my $3K offer (too high, too low?)

Thanks,
-nB

Flounder · #8 12-21-2007, 11:38 AM

I paid $3K for mine and it had a lot of problems. Suspension, brakes, you name it. It also had serious floor and rocker rust.

I've fixed almost all of it now though, and it's a truly enjoyable car.

Good luck.

Bert

kerry · #9 12-21-2007, 11:45 AM

In 2002 I paid $4500 for a 77 300d with 55k original miles, original owner always garaged.
This fall I paid $5900 for a 79 W116 300SD with 111k miles, second owner, spotless car with a new ACC servo.
$3k seems high to me. I'd rather pay a little more and get a lower mileage example. Servo replacements are running $400-1600 nowadays. With a dead compressor, it would be easy to drop a couple of grand into the climate control system.

#10 12-21-2007, 11:56 AM

Honestly, it sounds like more trouble than it's worth for $3K, you will put another $2-3K into it anyway, so you are looking at $5-6K for a repainted, OK condition, non-turbo with 250K miles. By the time you do the transmission and timing chain (potentially within the next 50-100K miles) you will be in pretty deep. You can't realistically offer him $1-2K to cover the future expenses, so you might as well go look for something else in the $5-6K range that has been well maintained. It's always cheaper to buy a good one that try to recover a neglected one.

vstech · #11 12-21-2007, 12:32 PM

no sarcasm at all. the cars are great, IF you can handle the drone of noise at high speeds. and IF you like to spend a bunch of money getting ancient a/c system working.
get an 81 and up model with a turbo, and more modern hvac system. you will thank yourself.
or offer 800-1200 and spend the savings getting it up to snuff.

vwnate1 · #12 01-19-2008, 01:05 AM

The price is _way_ too much but these cars (Diesel Coupes) are very good ~ my daily driver is a 1980 NA 300CD and there's NO ' drone ' unless the hood pad has gone missing (common) .

The HVAC is the early Klima I and is only a tiny bit different from the later Klima II systems , both have the same failures and are killer when working .

The power on a well tuned NA car with a good engine is fine , it'll handily keep up with to-day's fast traffic .

I'd say this is a $2,000.00 car TOPS and it'd better be rust free and have both doors close and open easily , NO slamming .(indicates accidnet damage)

I paid $600.00 for my two owner , never wrecked 77,000 mile 1980 300CD and it's sweet , I drive it _everywhere_ and it's dead nuts reliable .

BTW : the oil cap test , just unscrew it , no need to cover the breather tube , if the cap stays n place it'll be O.K. , if it blows off or oil spits out , it's going to use LOTS of oil .