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  #16  
Old 12-20-2007, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aklim View Post
How do you figure that is such a bad thing? When my AC hose blew, it has 8 years and 180K on it. Cost me about $2K to fix it with a new compressor and receiver dryer, etc, etc. At that rate, there goes your $200 a month. Now if you Avalon can guarantee that at 8 yrs, it has no such issue, I'd be interested. $200 a month is not that much in reality. My neighbor has spent about $100 a month for his Avalon when it was newer and with less miles.
From the reports I've heard, including family members
Avalon in very reliable.

The newest vehicale I own is a 97 Buick LeSabre 90k and it steadly drops from there, 95 Ford Econoline conversion van 100k, 92 Dodge Dynasty 102k, 91 Dodge Dokota 55k, (2)87 Mercedes 300SDL 200k, 85 Mercedes 300D 190k. Most were purchased used with exception to the Dynasty & Dakota, but have owned all for over 8 years or more, I would never keep any of these vehicals if I continually had to put
more than routine maintance into any of them, I would consider them a lemon and it would be gone.

The SDL's have been the most trouble some in the past 8 years
but not near $1000 a year, but they do have the most mileage on them also with an average of 200K each. The worst so far is a rebuilt trans and a non functioning sunroof.

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  #17  
Old 12-20-2007, 03:06 PM
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I've done all the work on it myself after one experience with a "professional" taught me I'd better learn how to fix this car or sell it.

I've probably spent $1500 on parts over the past 3 years. That includes everything from brakes to a A/C condensor and one A/C hose to the blower regulator and even maintenance items but I did the labor myself and, frankly, like the car to be perfect so I fix everything that breaks and/or leaks. so, for me it has been about $42 per month to keep a now 10.5 year old car with 160K mile running. If I had to pay labor it would probably be 4-5X that.

The car's paid for so no monthly payments, but even if you figure 1% of what I paid depreciates each month, that's another $140. So, for about $180 per month I get to drive a car which I feel is superior to most new cars unless I was willing to spend over $600 a month to lease one and get a new CDI. Yeah, to me it is worth the $180 a month to drive this and deal with the issues it has. In the past 12 months I have done nothing more than 2 or 3 oil changes and just this week my horn went bad so there's another $50 (though I could have bought a used one for $10).

There just aren't too many nice, safe, economical cars that you can drive for $180 a month which give anywhere near the pride of ownership or driving experience of a E300 Turbodiesel.

AND, I owned an avalon...best car I ever owned in terms of reliability...but BORING!
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  #18  
Old 12-20-2007, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by JimFreeh View Post
...maybe the W211 will be proven out to be a good gamble. Or... maybe the kids will have gotten out of college, and I can afford a new(ish) MB!

Jim
The guy who lives across the street from me is a technician at the local Mercedes Benz dealer, Penske Mercedes in Covina, CA.

He tells me that the '06 and '07 E class cars are really good. All of the problems seems to have been worked out.
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  #19  
Old 12-20-2007, 03:27 PM
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I believe the original question was one about engines, not models.

Brakes, AC, rust - these can go wrong on any engine variant. They're mostly all the same.

Personally I think the OM606 engine is superb. Mines got 197,000 on it and you wouldn't believe how quiet and smooth it is. My neighbour has a Peugeot 406 HDi, a very good engine by all accounts, it still sounds like a tractor though.

I've replaced the engine mounts, the belt tensioner, the fuel lines, various cheapy plastic clips, an oil breather pipe. I've had replaced 5 of the 6 glow plugs (previous owner welded one in place, stripped threads I bet, IDIOT), the fanbelt, and a pulley. These were all jobs that the previous owner had left to me.

I should replace the viscous fan as its weak, but the electronic fans are always there anyway. I also need to replace the fuel pump delivery valve seals, I have the bits I just haven't had the time to do anything. Injectors could do with cleaning I suppose, but it doesn't knock or smoke in any way, the idle is sometimes ever so slightly wobbly - its almost imperceptible.

I wouldn't hesitate to buy another. You can barely hear it at 80mph. I have every confidence the engine will outlast the chassis.
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  #20  
Old 12-20-2007, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aklim View Post
I think my most expensive electrical repair that I have had to do was on the driver seat. The heater gave out on both butt and back. Wife loves heated seats so we had to change both the leather covers since they come with the heater.
So what was the expense? I have this problem also (driver's seat, both "butt and back," as you say).

Jeremy
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Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
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  #21  
Old 12-20-2007, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vahe View Post
Every time a tail light bulb needs replacement the entire tail light assembly must be replaced.

E320 97 80k
Wow.. crappy engineering.
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  #22  
Old 12-20-2007, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by vahe
Every time a tail light bulb needs replacement the entire tail light assembly must be replaced.

E320 97 80k



I can't believe that is true. I am looking for a 99 E300 now, and I think they drive and hold up as well as the 124's. It's all about the prevous owners care.
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  #23  
Old 12-20-2007, 06:36 PM
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It's not literally true, but there is more than just a bit of truth here.

The design of the lamps is a known problem. They do fail often, requiring either replacement or some owner ingenuity.
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  #24  
Old 12-20-2007, 06:48 PM
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My mechanic tells me that the original design of the tail lamps was poor. The socket that the bulbs snap into would become bad because of heat.

If you get a burned out bulb idiot light, and the bulb is still good, then you need to replace the tail light assembly.

I'm told it's a one-time only deal.
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  #25  
Old 12-20-2007, 07:09 PM
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The 606 is a great engine, plus resale will always be better on the diesels than the gassers due to rarity and economy. If you are looking for "reliability" it would be hard to say since it would depend on previous maintenance. A quick check of ebay shows that most w210 diesels have a lot more miles than their gas equivalents. I have not seen many recalls for the late 606's, but I have seen a couple major recalls for the V6 gas models (i.e. harmonic balancer etc).
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  #26  
Old 12-20-2007, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by husk View Post
The 606 is a great engine, plus resale will always be better on the diesels than the gassers due to rarity and economy. If you are looking for "reliability" it would be hard to say since it would depend on previous maintenance. A quick check of ebay shows that most w210 diesels have a lot more miles than their gas equivalents. I have not seen many recalls for the late 606's, but I have seen a couple major recalls for the V6 gas models (i.e. harmonic balancer etc).
The harmonic balancer was replaced under recall, but it only affects 1998 to mid-year 2000 E320's and E430's.

The 606 does have a problems with stuck glow plugs, which if taken to the dealer, have been known to cost $2,000 to replace.

The two MB shops that I frequent plus my technician neighbor swear up and down that 2000-2002 E320 and E430's are among the most reliable MB's ever built.

They don't have head gasket, throttle actuator, a/c evaporator, or engine wiring harness problems like W124 E320's.
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2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
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1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #27  
Old 12-20-2007, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suginami View Post
My mechanic tells me that the original design of the tail lamps was poor. The socket that the bulbs snap into would become bad because of heat.

If you get a burned out bulb idiot light, and the bulb is still good, then you need to replace the tail light assembly.

I'm told it's a one-time only deal.
Hope so........

Been there done that on my '99's RR tailight assy. Outrageously expensive.........several hundreds of dollars.
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  #28  
Old 12-20-2007, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
So what was the expense? I have this problem also (driver's seat, both "butt and back," as you say).

Jeremy
A little over a grand. Talk to Phil.
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  #29  
Old 12-20-2007, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by nhdoc View Post
I've probably spent $1500 on parts over the past 3 years.

There just aren't too many nice, safe, economical cars that you can drive for $180 a month.......
What's your labor time worth? You're not including that cost. If you weren't working on your car, what do or did you make per hour in your employment?
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  #30  
Old 12-20-2007, 07:44 PM
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My mechanic tells me the Toyota Corolla is the most reliable.

Of course, he smokes a lot of dope so maybe he's not that reliable.

240Joe

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