240D Engine replacment - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

North Maine · #1 12-20-2007, 12:53 PM

A good friend of mine's father has asked me to replace the engine in his 240 D, I believe the year is around 1983? I myself have a 6.5 diesel in my truck and do my own work, and I'm quite comfortable around my 6.5, but I've never dealt with a MB diesel. I have heard great things, but I'm wondering how difficult it is going to be for me to do this job? He has a new or professionally rebuilt 4 cylinder longblock ready to put into the car, he just needs the old one taken out and new put in... my questions are;

1. Any special tools needed to do this?
2. Any tough spots that would complicate this swap?
3. How bolt-up is the transmission? Will the tranny need to come out with the old engine and go in with the new? or can it be disconnected and the block pulled out with ease?
4. Can the engine be pulled whole, then disassembled to prepare the new long block, or do i need to disassemble in the chassis and do it in reverse during the install?

ANY insight is greatly appreciated, thank you very much in advance.

engatwork · #2 12-20-2007, 07:36 PM

Pull the engine/tranny together and the engine whole. Is the front pulley on the engine going in? If not then you want to make sure you break the front crank pulley bolt loose prior to pulling the engine/tranny. Also, go ahead and remove all the torque converter bolts prior to pulling it all out. This is an easy job on the 240D as long as you have an engine lift

. You should be able to do it in a weekend. You can come here with questions as they come up.

t walgamuth · #3 12-20-2007, 07:55 PM

If it is a stick I would probably leave the tranny in the car.

Tom W

North Maine · #4 12-20-2007, 11:44 PM

The tranny is an auto... I'm not following on the front pulley... what difference does this make?

North Maine · #5 12-20-2007, 11:45 PM

AHHHH i got ya, i think you made a typo... if i NEED the pull make sure to break it while IN the car, so it'll give some resistance, otherwise the engine will just turn when i want to get it off... good thinking!

North Maine · #6 12-20-2007, 11:51 PM

Also, dont you have to seperate the tranny and the engine to unbolt the torque converter? if i unbolt the torque converter with everything still in the car, at that point the tranny is disconnected anyways, so why reconnect just to take it out? I'm not seeing how that can be done

Dusty-NZ · #7 12-21-2007, 12:33 AM

When you are under the car looking at the little tin plate cover on the bottom of the bell housing , inside there is access to the converter bolts . (6)Its easier to get them with the car on the hoist.
Unbolt the trans when the eng / trans assy is on the ground , thats easier then.

Dusty-NZ · #8 12-21-2007, 12:35 AM

Also when you seperate the trans from the engine be careful to pull the converter with the trans so as to not disturb the front seal , if the convertor seal is moved , it is most likely to leak soon and will end up another expense.

engatwork · #9 12-21-2007, 06:33 AM

I use a long crow bar jammed into the teeth of the flywheel to hold the engine from spinning when I break the front crank pulley bolt (300+Nm). It is ALOT easier to do with the engine bolted in the car versus on the lift UNLESS you have the $$special$$ tool used to hole the flywheel when you break the crank bolt loose. Some people will probably frown on jamming a crow bar in there on the flywheel teeth but I have always been successful in using this method.

North Maine · #10 12-21-2007, 09:39 AM

I guess you could jam the flywheel, but if it can be done IN the car and avoid that scenario, I'd just rather do that... Alright I get whatyou mean about the torque converter bolts, sounds like thats the way to do it. Thanks for your help, You'll be hearing from me shortly im sure!

Stevo · #11 12-21-2007, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

Pull the engine/tranny together and the engine whole. Is the front pulley on the engine going in? If not then you want to make sure you break the front crank pulley bolt loose prior to pulling the engine/tranny. Also, go ahead and remove all the torque converter bolts prior to pulling it all out. This is an easy job on the 240D as long as you have an engine lift

. You should be able to do it in a weekend. You can come here with questions as they come up.

What am I missing? Why would he pull the front pulley?

Mark DiSilvestro · #12 12-21-2007, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

What am I missing? Why would he pull the front pulley?

In case the new long-block doesn't come with one.

Happy Motoring, Mark

Stevo · #13 12-21-2007, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro

In case the new long-block doesn't come with one.

Happy Motoring, Mark

Hummm, The pulley is held on with 6 allens, no problem. I can see the balancer being a PIA to swap but I would think a long block would come with that already attached.

North Maine · #14 12-21-2007, 11:00 AM

The longblock should include the harmonic balancer, I've only given it a quick look, i really didnt want to say yes before I truely knew it was something I could do.

Stevo · #15 12-21-2007, 01:53 PM

When you pull eng & tranny (together) dont mess with the tranny mount in the car. Let the four 17mm bolts go that attach the tranny cross member to the under side of the car. Same with installing, except the manual tranny cross member only has two bolts. Leave the flex coupling ON the tranny.