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  #1  
Old 12-28-2007, 09:27 AM
Zack
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 337
Engine Shock or Mount??

I am trying to order an engine shock mount/motor mount/engine shock kit.

I was just wonering if I actually need the engine shock itself or if I can get away w/ just buying the kit??

The parts are being ordered from ************************

I know I am being kind of vague but that's all I got to work w/

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  #2  
Old 12-28-2007, 10:00 AM
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I replaced the mounts but not the shock...*shrug*
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  #3  
Old 12-28-2007, 10:12 AM
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Check with Fast Lane on this site

http://catalog.peachparts.com/
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  #4  
Old 12-28-2007, 11:23 AM
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If the shock mounts aren't broken I wouldn't worry about changing them. You can test the shocks themselves just like a normal shock if you can push down and pull up the rod then the shock it toast. I would do the engine mounts, and while doing it inspect the engine shocks and shock mounts. Then replace them later if they need it.
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  #5  
Old 12-28-2007, 11:45 AM
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I needed shocks and no mounts...so I guess you need to inspect each to determine your needs.
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  #6  
Old 12-28-2007, 06:12 PM
Zack
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 337
Thanks guys. I am getting the motor mounts next week. I have found other posts on how to change them. Does anyone know how to change the engine shock??
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1984 300D Turbo
1980 300SD Sold
1983 300TD Sold
Dagger 16 ft. Legend Canoe (for the weekends)
Marin Northside Trail Mtn. Bike
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  #7  
Old 12-28-2007, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zsmith29 View Post
Thanks guys. I am getting the motor mounts next week. I have found other posts on how to change them. Does anyone know how to change the engine shock??
There is a 10mm nut on either end of the shock, and two 10mm bolts on each or the mounts. You have to remove shock mount and the nuts on either end of the shock. You'll need to hold the shock from spinning while trying to loosen the nuts on the shock or it will just spin, a pair of vise grips works well.
1. Remove the nut from the top of the shock.
2. Remove the two bolts from shock mount and remove the mount.
3. Remove the nut from the bottom of the shock.

When you replace your engine mounts make sure you remove the top nut from the engine shock or you will destroy the shock mount when you jack the engine up to remove the engine mount. Ask me how I know!
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  #8  
Old 12-28-2007, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
You'll need to hold the shock from spinning while trying to loosen the nuts on the shock or it will just spin, a pair of vise grips works well.
A 7mm wrench on the wrench flats works even better.
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  #9  
Old 12-28-2007, 08:31 PM
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Right now my 300D has no shocks and it seems fine.
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  #10  
Old 12-28-2007, 08:56 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 175
im in the same boat .. my front right motor mount is shot completely .. the whole motor tilts about 6 inches to the drivers side when revved up .. i think ill inspect my shocks too as i was just gonna leave them till later .. might as well get em now if needed ..
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  #11  
Old 12-29-2007, 12:16 AM
Zack
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 337
I guess they don't call you "Xtreme" for nothing
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1984 300D Turbo
1980 300SD Sold
1983 300TD Sold
Dagger 16 ft. Legend Canoe (for the weekends)
Marin Northside Trail Mtn. Bike
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  #12  
Old 12-29-2007, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zsmith29 View Post
I guess they don't call you "Xtreme" for nothing
im guessing its the same with smith
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  #13  
Old 12-29-2007, 01:44 AM
ForcedInduction
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The shocks are mainly to absorb the engine's rocking motion when it shuts down. They aren't needed for normal operation.
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  #14  
Old 01-16-2008, 02:21 PM
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Actually, depending on road conditions and speed, you will notice quite a difference with or without the shocks. I've experienced it with a 300D (617) and a 300SDL (603). With no (or bad) shocks, around 60 mph, some unevenness in the road will set the engine to bouncing up and down on the mounts (of course damaging the mounts if they aren't bad already) and it will start to shake the car up and down hallaciously. Sometimes if I can get over 65mph and stay there, it won't start to bounce, but once it does, slowing to below 50-55mph is the only way to get it to stop.

Fresh mounts will solve the problem temporarily, but without adding (or replacing) the shocks, the mounts will live a short life and the problem will come back.

If you never go faster than 50 or 55, probably would never notice it.

Jeff
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  #15  
Old 01-16-2008, 05:44 PM
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Location: Canby, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
If the shock mounts aren't broken I wouldn't worry about changing them. You can test the shocks themselves just like a normal shock if you can push down and pull up the rod then the shock it toast. I would do the engine mounts, and while doing it inspect the engine shocks and shock mounts. Then replace them later if they need it.
Are you sure about that one? I just got brand new engine shocks and though it takes some effort, I can move them. I thought it was just because they are so much smaller..

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