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#16
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I once tried to convince Parrot of Doom that his 97 E300 couldn't possibly have a turbo.....
__________________
Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#17
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I have seen lots of posts on here about poor running and people spending thousands of dollars - mostly on IP rebuilds only to find it was not the problem - so i agree with number cruncher.
My IP looks like the top diagram as well. Interesting in the afterglow theory - my problems started (ironically) when the GPS were all replaced. Also interested in the K40 (or OVP relay on my car) theory as mine has never been changed since new. As it is a late 95 model I thought they had got better by then? Would be interested to know what state your tank screen was in. |
#18
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Terry, the two electrical connections are #62 and #80.
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#19
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Well, the tank screen wasnt all that bad. Certainly no major blockage. Downstream I go....
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#20
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>>Downstream I go....
If at any point in your further work, you take the inlet manifold off, there's a quick check you can do. If you plug all the vacuum pipes you've taken off, and you take care that there's nothing loose near the inlet ports, it's OK to start the engine. If you start the engine from cold, you'll immediately be able to see if your inlet valves are seating well - if there's any leakage, you'll see exhaust smoke puffing back out of the inlet ports! To do this costs nowt, and only takes a few minutes, and gives a clear indication. It was seeing lots of smoke coming out of the rearmost cylinder of mine which made me sort out the inlet valve seats - along with the new fuel pipe O ring seals, it has transformed the cold running of my 95 E300D. |
#21
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It may very well need a valvejob. Very odd that it always has a few moments of very very good running before it starts to behave badly.
The rear fuel line is a real bother to change on jack stands. I bought a new one thinking I would cut the old one getting it out. Well, I did but accessing the connection to the hard line, on your back, is near impossible. It will have to wait until its on a lift. Nevertheless, I bent up a piece of 5/16" steel line to make the curve better, as old fuel line does have a habit of collapsing. A collapsed fuel line would exhibit the same characteristics as a clogged inlet screen. |
#22
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>>few moments of very very good running before it starts to behave badly.
To me, this absolutely shouts of air in the fuel lines - an air bubble slowly builds while your engine is switched off, and fuel leaks away, or back to the tank. You start the engine, and initially it runs OK - until the bubble gets sucked into the injector pump. One way to temporarily exacerbate any fuel leak is to blow a *little* air into the tank. I usually use something like a garage air line, and seal the tank neck with nothing more than a rag. You're only looking for a slight over-pressure. Any leaking pipes will be spurting fuel at this point, and that makes them easier to identify. Or, simply replace all O rings, and any dubious pipes. It's not impossible for the lift pump to fail to seal, and as you hint, the pipes all the way back to the tank - and the injector leak offs all need to be leak tight. Or, perhaps most simply, rig up a temporary feed and return system - like the ones people use when running diesel purge through. If your car runs better, then you've definitely got a fuel leak/air ingress problem. |
#23
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I was experiencing a similar issue with my 603. My situation cleared up with a can of LM Diesel Purge and a fresh tank of fuel. It seemed that I had gotten a tank of fuel from a different source. It had algae in it and messed things up pretty bad.
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Dean |
#24
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Naw, its not the tank. after tonight, all rubber fuel lines will have been replaced.** No noticeable leaks/oil stains/smell of fuel. I'll fire her after I get soem fresh D2 in teh tank, but I expect no difference.
Onward to the IP/ cyl head we go. ** except the main feed , which I "shunted" with a piece of 5/16" SS tube. Really need a lift to get to that line comfortably. |
#25
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>> Onward to the IP/ cyl head we go.
Before you spend *serious* money, be sure that you understand how the engine can run OK for a few seconds and then run badly for a while. IMO, this means that both IP and cylinder head are *probably* OK. |
#26
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Disconnect the exhaust from the manifold and see if the problem persists.
Wear ear defenders though |
#27
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Quote:
For the record, I also have a '95 E300D and it like to run a little rough when it gets cold. I have never had any trouble starting the engine, but when it is cold out, the engine can run pretty rough until it gets warmed up. It is also pretty darn loud with what I assume is nailing. Although, I think the term only applies to the injectors and at this point, I am not entirely sure if it is the injectors or not. I haven't really chased this one down as it is not a major problem for me right now, but I would like to figure it out at some point. Perhaps change out the injector since they are due and see what happens. When it is nailing, I assume it is putting out a good amount of white smoke. But do you also notice engine hesitation until it gets warm?
__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles '79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold) '83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer) ______________________________________ "Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman Last edited by tankowner; 01-14-2008 at 10:46 PM. |
#28
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Tankowner, yup thats the drill. Last time it never really "got right" when warm, adn I ran the car 50 miles round trip (to pick up our venison!).
Number Crucher - oh man, thems my prayers. But the electrical hookups on teh IP are suspect, ESPECIALLY if they're thermo controlled, and the cyl head heat sesnor back there is suspect. I'm reviewing the schematic tonight. Parrot, it has a brand new exhaust , so no restriction there. I'll fire her tonight. Man, I sure hope it was a collapsing fuel line, but... stay tuned. BTW, who ever recommended " Book For Cars". DONT BOTHER. WHAT A RIPOFF. The "606.910 Engine Diagnostic and Troubleshooting Manual", is simply copies of FSM pages in a binder, FOR$100 !~! |
#29
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>>But the elctricla hookups on teh IP are suspect
Which electrical hook ups? Why are they suspect? If it's the ELR that worries you, does the rough running go away as soon as you're above idle - say 1000rpm? If not, it's not the ELR. IMO, (thankfully not IME!), ELR failure would more probably give you stalling problems, and probably at all temperatures, not just shortly after a cold start. |
#30
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Yes NC, it does clear up if you give it some pedal.
I've got a fuel volume thingy and the ARA to check out. I guess you CAN plug in a hand testor and read error codes! Bear with me guys, I decided my "jury rigged" fuel line was un acceptable. Pulled All the old line off last night ( you get to HUG your differential with both arms around it!), and getting a new line. I have NOT been able to interpret the schematics yet and see what , if any, sensors are supplying a signal to the IP. I'm going to try and get a hand testor and pull error codes. BTW, the 46mm socket is a $9.99 part at Autozone, 1 3/4" with a little die grinder clearancing. |
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