rear raising mechanism - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

bears4x4 · #1 12-30-2007, 02:39 PM

my car sits really low in the rear, how do i and or what parts run the rear raising mechanism
thanks.

Bio300TDTdriver · #2 12-30-2007, 02:55 PM

You may want to try the search feature on the homepage. Try searching for SLS. There are at least several threads on the system.

Skid Row Joe · #3 12-30-2007, 02:58 PM

Get some air-shocks from Sears to jack-up your rear-end, they work great. --I'm serious. The first cars that didn't have air-shocks installed were my Mercedes-Benz diesels. But I wouldn't hesitate to install them in a minute if they needed them. The SD could have used them, but since I wasn't carrying anything but my personal clothes while travelling on business, I let it slide. All my American ghetto-cruisers got them, right out of the new car dealer's showrooms. --That was when I first started out in business for myself, in the mid-1970s. I carried hundreds of pounds of sample goods to show clients in six-states back then. Ya needed to jack-up the back end because of the loads I was carrying.

Bio300TDTdriver · #4 12-30-2007, 03:06 PM

These work great too. Well at least on my CTD truck.

http://www.truckspring.com/ride-rite_641.html?affid=5

Douglas.Sherida · #5 12-30-2007, 03:33 PM

Whoa!

Hold on there a minute with the (bad) suggestions to put on air shocks.

Let's try a little bit of diagnostic first.

1) Bear4x4: Your car is a 300TD, "TD" is the proper designation for a wagon (T = transport) with a diesel (D) engine. Wear the badge proudly, a 300TD is waaaaayy better than a 300D (sorry folks, but you know its true).

2) The mechanism that regulates the ride height on the rear end of a 300TD is called the "self leveling suspension" or "SLS". It is a simple and elegant system, that is easy to diagnose and repair. Unfortunately, because the 300TD is so much better than its boring (and ugly) cousin the 300D, SLS parts are harder to find (and in a few cases $$$$).

Do some reading on the volumes of stuff that has already been written on how to troubleshoot the SLS so you can rephrase the question.

No offense, but advice like "get some air shocks" is really bad (at least without analysis.

Bio300TDTdriver · #6 12-30-2007, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Douglas.Sherida

Whoa!

Hold on there a minute with the (bad) suggestions to put on air shocks.

Let's try a little bit of diagnostic first.

1) Bear4x4: Your car is a 300TD, "TD" is the proper designation for a wagon (T = touring) with a diesel (D) engine. Wear the badge proudly, a 300TD is waaaaayy better than a 300D (sorry folks, but you know its true).

2) The mechanism that regulates the ride height on the rear end of a 300TD is called the "self leveling suspension" or "SLS". It is a simple and elegant system, that is easy to diagnose and repair. Unfortunately, because the 300TD is so much better than its boring (and ugly) cousin the 300D, SLS parts are harder to find (and in a few cases $$$$).

Do some reading on the volumes of stuff that has already been written on how to troubleshoot the SLS so you can rephrase the question.

No offense, but advice like "get some air shocks" is really bad (at least without analysis.

My suggestion in my second post was tongue in cheek, thus the grinning face. My first suggestion was to search for SLS. It's nice to help new folks, but I usually try to get them to search on their own, with a little help.

Biodiesel300TD · #7 12-30-2007, 05:54 PM

Welcome to the forum!

Sounds like you have a leak in your self-leveling-system. First check the fluid reservior in the engine bay. It's right behind the passenger side head light. If the level is okay, then jack up the rear end and look around for leaks. There is a square valve near the differential, the leveling valve, that tends to leak causing a sagging rear end. The accumulators, the round things just inside of the wheels, can also leak internally causing a bouncy rear end. The shocks can leak as well, although that is a bit uncommon.
Does the rear lift up when you start the car or when you load the rear? If not then the pump my be bad.

Douglas.Sherida, I always thought the T in TD stands for Touring.

bears4x4 · #8 12-30-2007, 07:01 PM

OK i see the hydraulic fluid reservoir by the PS light, but what type of hydraulic fluid do i put in it? recommended brand. im doing the sls searching now thanks all

Bio300TDTdriver · #9 12-30-2007, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bears4x4

OK i see the hydraulic fluid reservoir by the PS light, but what type of hydraulic fluid do i put in it? recommended brand. im doing the sls searching now thanks all

You want to use the MB fluid or Febi. If you click on the Buy Parts tab above, you can get the Febi. Is your reservoir low? What color is the fluid?

Biodiesel300TD · #10 12-30-2007, 07:35 PM

The fluid should be pretty clean and fairly transparent. Use the MB or Febi stuff. You can get away with baby oil in the short term. If it looks like motor oil, then the seals in the pump are shot. You can reseal the pump with a kit from George Murphy of Performance Analysis, his info is on here somewhere.

jshadows · #11 12-31-2007, 04:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD

The fluid should be pretty clean and fairly transparent. Use the MB or Febi stuff. You can get away with baby oil in the short term. If it looks like motor oil, then the seals in the pump are shot. You can reseal the pump with a kit from George Murphy of Performance Analysis, his info is on here somewhere.

I'd probably go one step further and say the fluid should be extremely clean (and transparent). I haven't touched my fluid since purchase 2 years ago and when I pulled the accumulators and SLS valve the other day it was crystal clear. I'll be changing the filter next chance I get too to make sure it stays that way.

bears4x4 · #12 12-31-2007, 07:12 PM

unfortunately theres no fluid in there at all thanks, ill have to buy some asap.

jshadows · #13 12-31-2007, 08:23 PM

though it may already be too late do not run the car again until you have fluid in there. I think you will need at least 2 1 liter bottles (check documentation to be sure).

You also surely have a leak somewhere so you will need to find it and fix it before taking the car on the road again.

Chad300tdt · #14 12-31-2007, 08:43 PM

If it's completely dry it takes 3.5 liters.

Bio300TDTdriver · #15 12-31-2007, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

If it's completely dry it takes 3.5 liters.

You may want to run some other inexpensive fluid through it, so you can find the leak. I would think, if it doesn't stay in, it won't damage the system, but I reserve the right to be corrected if I'm wrong.