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#16
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#17
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What is it exactly? If it's below about 12.2 volts you need to focus on the battery. 12.65 is fully charged, 12.00 is pretty much dead. A suffering battery will only show itself in real cold weather. |
#18
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Several posibilities:
First, the bushings in the shift linkage fall out with age on these cars, helped no doubt by the temperatures (I used to live in Sault Ste. Maire, I know). When they are missing, the lever may not push far enough to engage the safety switch in Park, although you can get it to work in Neutral. May have to move shift lever around while holding the key over in the start position to find where it works. Second, the switch itself may be bad, or the wiring loose. Third, the solenoid on the starter is bad, or the wiring is bad, so that no current it being applied to the solenoid, hence no start. The safety switch is in the circuit. And don't forget that ignition switches go bad, too -- if the switch is worn out or loose, it may not make contact. You can check these things with a voltmeter or a test lamp, but not outside in the middle of the winter! You must get 12V at the small wire on the starter (driver's side) with the key in start position. If not, trace back to the safety switch and see if the juice is getting there. Check for continuity across the safety switch in neutral and park, etc. If you hear a loud click and the lights dim or go out, the starter is shot. They wear out and lock up, both of ours have. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#19
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Hmm... My 87 300E would sometimes refuse to turn over when it was really really cold. As best I could tell, the starter was frozen. My mechanic said starters sometimes do that and that if I had hit it with a hammer or broom handle it night have started working.
In that we really get few REALLY cold days here in Georgia, I didn't invest in a starter. the family just nicknamed the car "Summer"... If you moved the shifter around and it didn't help and the problem is only when it is really cold, and everything is fine when it warms up, then I vote for the starter.
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02 S500 92 500SL 92 400E (Sold) 87 300E (Sold) 83 300D Turbo (Sold) 75 300D (Sold) 74 240D (Sold after 20 years) |
#20
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I have a hell of a time starting my car below about 20 deg F. By all indications everything is good and it should start. Except for my starter, it's the last piece of the puzzle and probably old and very warn. It just doesn't have the nuts to turn the engine I think. It's rare that we have that cold a day and I can't plug it in so I just haven't bothered.
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#21
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Okay, so here's what I've got.
I had my car towed into a garage overnight and this morning turn over without even a sputter eager as could be. I've checked the battery voltage and the output is 12.23. One question I do have is: Can I check my the integrity of my block heater in some way? Can I utilize the volt meter in a similar way on the plug prongs? If so what kind of reading should I be getting? AND If the block heater is in fact faulty -- would that be a contributing variable? Can a block heater prevent a starter from freezing up? If that is the case and my block heater is shot -- how much should I be expecting to spend on a replacement? And finally is it something I can install myself? Thanks so much for you input guys I really appreciate it! - J |
#22
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That voltage is pretty low. Give it a real good charge and get it up to 12.6 volts. I think a parts store may charge it for you if you don't have one. Once charged, they can also load test the battery if you want.
Most likely you need to just replace your block heater cord. Listen closely when you plug it in, you should hear it heating up if it works. The cord tends to get dried out and cracked after a while causing it to short out. Replacing the actual heater looks like a real pain. I'd pull your cord out and take a look at it. It unplugs right at the engine block. Click the 'buy parts' button above for a new cord if needed. The block heater doesn't affect the starter, it only heats your coolant. Having a good block heater warms the engine and makes the engine much easier for the battery/starter to turn and brings the pistons closer to the required ignition/flashpoint temperature. |
#23
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Same thing happened again this morning. -36 C... ICK. I did try jump-starting the battery using another vehicle to no avail. So I guess I'll assume that the little hamster living in my starter doesn't get out of bed in sub-zero temps. My Block heater seems to "hum" when I pug her in. I did charge up my battery last night to a 12.6 V.
With that being said, is there anyway I could possibly overcome this cold enough for the engine to turn over? Friends suggested a solar battery "trickle charger" along with a heated battery blankey that I could plug in to overnight. If I were to replace the starter; would all my be well? Thanks again for all your help and patience guys. I am a new member and I have got to say that I really appreciate and value the expertise. Just a shame that I'm not all that mechanically inclined... either way, you at least give me an idea as to what I'm dealing with! Thanks all! - J |
#24
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I wouldn't count on a new starter fixing it. There are other things posted on this thread that it could be, all of which are cheaper and easier than a starter. You've eliminated the battery which is the easiest thing to check. I would still try jumping the starter directly if you can, that's the next easiest thing. Does your engine feel any warmer after having it plugged in all night?? It should be a little warmer. By the way, did anything happen when you tried starting it?? If not, give it a whack with your hammer either before starting or even better when you try to start it. |
#25
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if you have a heat lamp try putting it under the car near the starter or near the neutral safety switch on the tranny.that may narrow it down a little
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michael cole 1980 300SD gone now but not forgotten,87tdt,90 300te 4matic 95 e320 wagon |
#26
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The problem is either the starter or the battery..........and I'm strongly leaning toward the starter. Do the following: 1) Remove the battery from the vehicle. Bring it indoors. Charge it fully with an overnight charger.........6 amp to 10 amps or so. 2) Take the battery to a facility that sells batteries and have them load test the battery. They'll immediately know if it can put out the juice in the cold. 3) If no facility exists locally, put the battery back in the vehicle and attempt to start in the cold. If it starts, the battery is shot. If it does not start, you'll still need to take the battery to a shop for confirmation. Starters don't usually fail in the cold and then resurrect themselves when warm..........although it's not impossible if the solenoid is sticking. |
#27
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Charging and testing the battery out of the car is a good idea, but I seriously doubt that having slightly low voltage from the battery will keep the starter from even trying.
I really like the heat lamp idea! Plug in the block heater and aim that toaster at the starter for a couple of hours and I bet it will start right up!
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02 S500 92 500SL 92 400E (Sold) 87 300E (Sold) 83 300D Turbo (Sold) 75 300D (Sold) 74 240D (Sold after 20 years) |
#28
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Still having problems. Kept the car in a garage overnight with a battery charger on it. Now with 13V juice try as I might it will not turn over completely. At least it will make an atempt at least.
So at this stage am I right to assume that both the battery and starter are fine? It wants to turn over -- I can tell... but it just can seem to cough itself into a steady idle. What's next? Sorry if I'm being a pain in the butt... - J |
#29
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How fast does it turn over with the starter?
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michael cole 1980 300SD gone now but not forgotten,87tdt,90 300te 4matic 95 e320 wagon |
#30
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not too sure what you mean...
When I turn the key wait for the G.P light to turn off --- it tries to start just won't turn all the way over. Really close... can only describe it as: Vrrooo as appose to VRROOMMMMMM - J |
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