Hi guys, I need some serious input because I'm practically stranded at home without it.

I had my mechanic change the GP relay and I changed the battery from a starting issue a month ago.
The problem still persisted and I thought the starting problem was from a fuel leak I had so my diesel thermostat was replaced.
After that it still had the same symptoms, the car would try to start and the engine would shuffle around trying to start.
Inside when the key was turned to position 2, the glow plug indicator lamp would light up as normal, then turn off when it was apparently ready.
So the car still wouldn't start and I then replaced the glow plugs (first time ever doing it).
Right after the plugs were installed I started the car and it started immediately on the first try.
The next non-cold morning I got into the car I turned the key to position 2. This time the glow plug indicator lamp didn't even come on.
I could hear the starter trying to start the car, but the engine didn't turn-over or shuffle period.
So I went to advanced auto parts and told the guy what was up and he said it probably wasn't the starter causing the issue.

My question is, what could be causing this never ending starting issue and why after changing my glow plugs does my indicator lamp not turn on???

Glow plug fuse failed?

Forget about all the recently changed parts. Something in the glow plug circuit is still not functioning properly.

The starter has nothing to do with the issue.

Since the plugs are new, check the fuse in the glow plug relay. It might be cracked or it might be burnt, indicating a short.

If you don't have a glow plug light, you're certainly not getting 12V to the glow plugs (which you or the mechanic can easily verify with a voltmeter).

It won't start until this problem is solved.

Would the fuse physically be inside the relay? I took a quick night shot of the new relay. One thing that really sticks out to me is this thin metal bar that's on the pic. I would imagine that it's the fuse since it doesn't look like it has another function and is not connected, but I've never seen a fuse similar to this.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Yes, that is the fuse, it's rated for something like 85 amp.

So that's the culprit then. I'll hit up Auto Zone or some place for the fuse tommorow morning. You guys rock! (and are very quick to respond for a 2am post. lol)

You have two issues...
#1. Your engine oil is too thick for current temperature and/or the starter is bad.
FYI: In Detroit, I am running Mobile1 5W40 at the moment.

#2. You have a glow plug circuit short = bad glow plugs or harness.
Bad glow plugs would be my guess, over torquing the eight millimeter glow plug nut will twist stress the heat element = one start then dead short.

Glow plugs link thread
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/137732-glow-plugs-link-thread.html#post1019018

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Yep, the fuse is burnt right in two. Hopefully, replacement of the fuse will cure the problem, however, that fuse looks like it suffered from a short. Therefore, I'd buy a few of them because the problem might immediately return and you'll need to find the source (this usually consumes a few fuses.............).

Buy a couple of them, they are cheap ... Even from the Dealer!

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Don't expect to find that fuse at a run-of-the-mill parts store.

I don't think Roy saw your pic above before he posted this. Was probably typing and getting your link together. Good info had your fuse not have been melted in half......

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Still good info; something caused the fuse to melt in half.

If you blow another fuse, try unhooking each glow plug (you can leave them in the block). Measure the resistance from the connection on each plug to the block, It should be ~.9 Ohms. If it is reading 0 ohms, you may have a shorted out plug. Of course, if any read open (infinite ohms) then they are blown and need replacement.

Questionable plugs you can always pull and try hooking them up individually to 12v.

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I bought 2 fuses online just in case, but should have bought 3.

Wow, it seems like this whole system is very sensitive to just about anything. I'm pretty sure I tighened them very tight just so they don't accidently fall off and just to make sure I'll buy a multimeter and give it a shot.

One more thing, is there any way to bypass this GP fuse to start the car until the fuse gets here? I really dislike using starting fluid on the car as my last engine had a tappet break off inside the combustion chamber partially because of it.

This is an electrical connection.
The eight millimeter wire connector nut should never be tightened with more than the tip of one finger applying pressure to the wrench = stop when the wire begins to flex or your finger tip hurts.

Wish you could attend the tech session here, your car would be a great diagnostic demonstrator.

January 26 2008, Cold weather Diesel Tech Session - Detroit.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/announcement.php?f=15&a=88