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  #1  
Old 01-05-2008, 04:46 PM
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Soliciting opinions on repair for a (w123) leaking brake caliper

The car: 1984 euro 300TD turbo, 176,000 miles

I've had it for 7 months and 6,000 miles. On three occasions (that I know of) during this period the front left brake caliper has stuck, but I haven't done anything about it beyond pull over, whack it with a soft mallet and proceed.

This past week with the first onset of really cold weather (single digits), the brake light flickered on during a left turn and I found the brake fluid low.

With some "warm" weather today, I decided to do some maintenance, and while rotating the tires found that the front left caliper is leaking brake fluid (badly).

The pads, rotors, fluid and hoses are good all the way around.

So, obviously I need to address the leaking caliper and replace the oil soaked front left pads (I'll do the right side too while I'm at it).

Should I replace or rebuild the caliper? (Ate) If replace, then new or rebuilt? If rebuilt, what brand?

Should I address the front right caliper while I'm at it? I have no indications of any problems with the right caliper, but there is a whole symmetry thing in doing brake work. (I never had to address just one brake before.)

Also, any recommendations on replacement pad brands?

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  #2  
Old 01-05-2008, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas.Sherida View Post

Should I replace or rebuild the caliper? (Ate) If replace, then new or rebuilt? If rebuilt, what brand?
I found (18 months ago) rebuilt ATE calipers at O'reillys for about $50 each. I could not justify rebuilding myself when professionally rebuilt units were priced like that.

I used Textar pads. Dusty, but good feel and stopping power.

Always replace in pairs.
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'82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic
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  #3  
Old 01-05-2008, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techguy512 View Post
Always replace in pairs.
Pads definitely, but calipers?
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  #4  
Old 01-05-2008, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas.Sherida View Post
Pads definitely, but calipers?
There are two schools of thought.

The first is that a freshly rebuilt caliper will perform better than the properly functioning............but 20 year old...........caliper on the opposite side. If this happens, then the vehicle will pull to the side of the new caliper.

The second is that the new caliper will function in an identical manner as the existing............good...........caliper.

So, it's your call. If you change one caliper and it pulls toward that side........then you'll need to do the opposite side.
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  #5  
Old 01-05-2008, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
There are two schools of thought.
I come from the 3rd school. Why not spend the extra $50, and be completely confident of the condition of the safety equipment, and barring remanufacturing defect not have to worry about it for what, another 20 years?
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  #6  
Old 01-05-2008, 05:32 PM
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Nothing wrong with that.....but in a 25 year old car it is possible the other one has already been replaced too.

Tom W
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2008, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
Nothing wrong with that.....but in a 25 year old car it is possible the other one has already been replaced too.

Tom W
Bingo.

I'd bet money on it, judging by the appearance.



Unfortunatley, we don't have O'Reilly around here.

So, it looks like $160 per side for new, $80 per side for rebuilts (Cardone) or $17 per side for DIY rebuild kits, plus $30 for pads.

So, my options run from $50 to $350.

What would you do?
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  #8  
Old 01-05-2008, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Douglas.Sherida View Post
What would you do?
You can't know what to do until you disassemble the existing calipers. If the pistons are not scored and the bores clean up okay, there is an excellent chance that you can successfully replace the seals and boots.

If the pistons and/or bores are scored, pitted or rusted, it's time for new calipers.
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  #9  
Old 01-05-2008, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
You can't know what to do until you disassemble the existing calipers. If the pistons are not scored and the bores clean up okay, there is an excellent chance that you can successfully replace the seals and boots.

If the pistons and/or bores are scored, pitted or rusted, it's time for new calipers.
Obviously.

I infer from your response that you would attempt to rebuild yourself.

I'm not trying to be snotty, I just recall having read some pretty adamant opinions against DIY caliper rebuilding. Just trying to get a feel for it.

Thanks.
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  #10  
Old 01-05-2008, 06:13 PM
Craig
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I had a leaky one a couple of months ago. I bought two rebuilt calipers (from worldpac, through my indy) as well as pads, rotors (they were due anyway), and new flex lines. All in all, about $500 in parts and a few hours of work.

Personally, I only do brake work in pairs.

I also like Textar pads, good performance and quite.
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  #11  
Old 01-05-2008, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas.Sherida View Post
I infer from your response that you would attempt to rebuild yourself.
"Rebuild" might be a little dramatic. Let me say that I would replace the seals and boots after I cleaned things up. And I have done just that quite a few times with nary a problem. But my success could be due entirely to my outstanding mechanical abilities, keen analytical skills and unwavering attention to detail!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas.Sherida View Post
I'm not trying to be snotty, I just recall having read some pretty adamant opinions against DIY caliper rebuilding. Just trying to get a feel for it.
Realistically, you are not "rebuilding" the caliper. You are just cleaning things up and renewing a couple pieces of tired rubber. Just do it in pairs!!!
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  #12  
Old 01-05-2008, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig View Post
I also like Textar pads, good performance and quite.
After hearing a number of reports that Textars were quiet, I decided to try some. Mine squeal like crazy, especially when cold.
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  #13  
Old 01-05-2008, 06:50 PM
Craig
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
After hearing a number of reports that Textars were quiet, I decided to try some. Mine squeal like crazy, especially when cold.
How are your rotors, I installed them with new rotors and they were very quite.
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  #14  
Old 01-05-2008, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig View Post
How are your rotors, I installed them with new rotors and they were very quite.
I did not replace the rotors, but they appear to be in good shape. The previous ATE pads did not squeal except when backing up.
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  #15  
Old 01-05-2008, 07:24 PM
Craig
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Mine seem to squeak if I don't change the rotors every second set of pads.

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