|
|
|
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Soliciting opinions on repair for a (w123) leaking brake caliper
The car: 1984 euro 300TD turbo, 176,000 miles
I've had it for 7 months and 6,000 miles. On three occasions (that I know of) during this period the front left brake caliper has stuck, but I haven't done anything about it beyond pull over, whack it with a soft mallet and proceed. This past week with the first onset of really cold weather (single digits), the brake light flickered on during a left turn and I found the brake fluid low. With some "warm" weather today, I decided to do some maintenance, and while rotating the tires found that the front left caliper is leaking brake fluid (badly). The pads, rotors, fluid and hoses are good all the way around. So, obviously I need to address the leaking caliper and replace the oil soaked front left pads (I'll do the right side too while I'm at it). Should I replace or rebuild the caliper? (Ate) If replace, then new or rebuilt? If rebuilt, what brand? Should I address the front right caliper while I'm at it? I have no indications of any problems with the right caliper, but there is a whole symmetry thing in doing brake work. (I never had to address just one brake before.) Also, any recommendations on replacement pad brands? |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I used Textar pads. Dusty, but good feel and stopping power. Always replace in pairs.
__________________
Bob '82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
#4
|
|||
|
|||
There are two schools of thought.
The first is that a freshly rebuilt caliper will perform better than the properly functioning............but 20 year old...........caliper on the opposite side. If this happens, then the vehicle will pull to the side of the new caliper. The second is that the new caliper will function in an identical manner as the existing............good...........caliper. So, it's your call. If you change one caliper and it pulls toward that side........then you'll need to do the opposite side. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I come from the 3rd school. Why not spend the extra $50, and be completely confident of the condition of the safety equipment, and barring remanufacturing defect not have to worry about it for what, another 20 years?
__________________
Bob '82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Nothing wrong with that.....but in a 25 year old car it is possible the other one has already been replaced too.
Tom W
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I'd bet money on it, judging by the appearance. Unfortunatley, we don't have O'Reilly around here. So, it looks like $160 per side for new, $80 per side for rebuilts (Cardone) or $17 per side for DIY rebuild kits, plus $30 for pads. So, my options run from $50 to $350. What would you do? |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
You can't know what to do until you disassemble the existing calipers. If the pistons are not scored and the bores clean up okay, there is an excellent chance that you can successfully replace the seals and boots.
If the pistons and/or bores are scored, pitted or rusted, it's time for new calipers. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I infer from your response that you would attempt to rebuild yourself. I'm not trying to be snotty, I just recall having read some pretty adamant opinions against DIY caliper rebuilding. Just trying to get a feel for it. Thanks. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
I had a leaky one a couple of months ago. I bought two rebuilt calipers (from worldpac, through my indy) as well as pads, rotors (they were due anyway), and new flex lines. All in all, about $500 in parts and a few hours of work.
Personally, I only do brake work in pairs. I also like Textar pads, good performance and quite. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Realistically, you are not "rebuilding" the caliper. You are just cleaning things up and renewing a couple pieces of tired rubber. Just do it in pairs!!! |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
After hearing a number of reports that Textars were quiet, I decided to try some. Mine squeal like crazy, especially when cold.
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
How are your rotors, I installed them with new rotors and they were very quite.
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
I did not replace the rotors, but they appear to be in good shape. The previous ATE pads did not squeal except when backing up.
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Mine seem to squeak if I don't change the rotors every second set of pads.
|
Bookmarks |
|
|