Alternator bolt being a B!t(h
 

Im trying to remove the ****** alternator on my 83 300D. The bottom bolt is being a major pain in my arse. There isnt enough room to put a socket on it because of the frigging A/C line thats in the way. I can get a 17 MM wrench on the bolt, but cant get enough torque on it to break the bolt loose. There is no way to get it from the top either.

Im at my ****** wits end with this god forsaken machine.

Anyone have any ideas on what I may try to do before I take a shotgun to it and send it to the local junk yard??????

Shallow Swivel Socket
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/20100/20035.JPG

First thing it sounds like you need to do is take a step back and have a beer. Take your time and spray some lube on it. Can you get at it another way? Socket with an extension? Take a break first. Frustration never helps.

I just use a box wrench on the bottom bolt (from the bottom) and apply the required force. I have used a hammer to tap the wrench if necessary to break it loose.

I might go see if I can find one at Sears. It might work.....


Craig: I have tried that as well, but I cant get a good swing on the hammer to break the bolt loose.... :)

There is really no other wat to get at it other than from under the car. Even with the car on ramps, its being a PITA. :)

Superbeast - thought you were just going to put a brush pack in it?

Oh, it's frustrating. I had to jack up the front end and use a cheater bar, but I was able to get an open end on it.

Agreed.

If it's really stubborn, some heat on the head of the bolt will cause the bolt to elongate slightly and the clamping force is severely reduced. You'll be surprised at what 100 degrees will do..............

I agree with carlton, heat will do some amazing things, especially with alloy remember to put anti-seize on the threads before re installation. Usually i just get a box end and beat the crap out of it with a sledge.

Subtle, but effective. :D

You can apply more force with a cheater pipe. Of course, there is no room for a cheater pipe under there, but you can use a box end wrench on a combination wrench as a cheater pipe.

It would be so much easier if I could just take a picture of it for you, but I'm at work.

Put the box end of a 17mm combination wrench on the bolt. Then put the box end of a 19mm wrench over one of the faces of the open end of the 17mm wrench. You can get alot more leverage that way.

Did the same repair a couple of months ago and was a bit frustrated with removing the bolts also. Looked in my Haynes manual for tips and it said something like "remove bolts". Big help. Anyway, I survived the ordeal , didn't throw any wrenches at the car, had the alternator rebuilt, and patted myself on the back. As I recall, holding the nut in place and getting the threads started when reinstalling is a bit of a challenge also. Good luck.

I finally got the alternator off the car.

TX- I was going to put a Voltage regulator on, but there was a plastic cover on the back of the alternator that prevented that. I had to remove the alternator to remove the cover in order to access the VR.


That leads me to anothe problem. The alternator is not the right one for the car. The VR I took out of the alternator is ALMOST the same size. The new one will go in (the screw holes are identical), but the plastic section that has the 2 brushes on it is longer on the new one. I might see if I can rig something with some small washers to take up that extra space so the brushes will line up...

The VR I took out was definetly in need of replacement. Im gonna attach some pictures in just a few minutes here..... :)

bolt
 

On stubborn bolts like those holding brake calipers, I usually just use a box end wrench and a big rubber mallet. Whale away with the mallet on the wrench and it eventually comes loose. I learned this technique watching a guy who was a professional U-Haul temporary trailer hitch hooker-upper.