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  #16  
Old 01-13-2008, 09:19 PM
AHH,What's up Doc????
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig View Post
That sounds better, my original plan was to put two nuts on it and turn the lower one, but I dinged up the threads first.
Oh, crap! Got lucky did ya!

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  #17  
Old 01-13-2008, 09:26 PM
Craig
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Originally Posted by Knightrider966 View Post
Oh, crap! Got lucky did ya!
Better to be lucky than good any day.
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  #18  
Old 01-13-2008, 09:28 PM
AHH,What's up Doc????
 
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Originally Posted by Craig View Post
Better to be lucky than good any day.
Oh, I'll take good over lucky with busted and stripped bolts! I would be glad to get lucky when good fails tho!
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  #19  
Old 01-13-2008, 09:31 PM
Craig
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I ended up ordering two new studs and nuts from the dealer. I figured if one broke the other might be about due.
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  #20  
Old 01-13-2008, 09:34 PM
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How can these studs break considering the torque they're require to take? I would always torque them after snugging them a little.
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  #21  
Old 01-13-2008, 09:37 PM
Craig
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Originally Posted by lietuviai View Post
How can these studs break considering the torque they're require to take? I would always torque them after snugging them a little.
I don't know, I assume mine was over-tightened at some point.
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  #22  
Old 01-13-2008, 09:54 PM
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IIRC, they only need about 25 ft-lbs of torque.
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84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012
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  #23  
Old 01-13-2008, 10:19 PM
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Location: Alexandria, Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig View Post
I ended up ordering two new studs and nuts from the dealer. I figured if one broke the other might be about due.
Last winter, I had one of the oil-filter cover studs pull out of the aluminum oil-filter canister as I was backing my '82 240D from the driveway. Fortunately it was daylight and I saw the huge black puddle before I drove off and did any damage. The stud didn't actually break, but instead had pulled out of the aluminum canister lug, taking most of the aluminum threads with it. Usually, one would fix the canister lugs with a helicoil thread repair, but that involves drilling and tapping the aluminum lugs oversize, which could weaken them.
I discovered the PO must have had the same thing happen with the other stud and repaired it by inserting an 8 mm bolt through the bottom end of the canister lug. I did the same, but refined the repair by grinding the bolt head to better fit the space and contour under the canister lug. I re-did the other one the same way.
I also had to ream out the 2 or 3 threads remaining in the bottom of canister lug in order to insert the bolt from below.
This repair eliminates the possibility of aluminum threads pulling out and makes a permanent fix that can only fail if one were to over-torque the cover nuts so severely that the bolt snaps, the nut strips the bolt's threads, or (very unlikely) the lug actually breaks off of the aluminum canister. Normally, the filter cover nuts shouldn't be torqued to that extreme.
Needless to say, there's no way to drive the car and keep the oil in, with only one end of the filter cover secured!

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 01-13-2008 at 10:29 PM.
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  #24  
Old 01-13-2008, 10:29 PM
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To all who have replied and have been sympathetic to my plight:

I made a beeline for the nearest pick-a-part yard and to my luck, there was a 240D there with the parts I needed.

Now, I just have to get my stuck/sheared stud out of the oil filter housing.

This sucks.

I'll keep you all posted...
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  #25  
Old 01-13-2008, 10:42 PM
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This happened to me, I put a nut on the sheared stud stuck in the housing, and backed the stud out. Went to home depot and bought a metric bolt to put in until I go to the dealer, worked fine. I think it as 8mm.

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