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#1
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Help! Dropped Car, Broke hose/line
I had a very stupid accident today. Pulling the '82 300d up on ramps to look for a spot for a block heater, I overshot it somehow dropping the car down on the ramps. Immediately red liquid started dripping from the passenger side and looking underneath I found a brass looking hose from which the leak came which appeared to be kinked. Hose attaches to part of the lower radiator and I assume it's the lower oil cooler hose but I can't tell. Also found some fingertip size chunk of foam that was covered in oil.
Anyone know exactly what this hose/line is or what that foam chunk is? Sorry I don't have access to a camera right now or I'd have taken a picture. I was able to pull the ramp out on the drivers side but had to slightly jack the passenger side up to get the other. Did I screw my car up? Anything else I should check on?
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1982 MB 300D-T Veg Power Two tank conversion |
#2
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You broke the transmission cooler line. Don't drive it without fixing it.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#3
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Brake fluid is not red, trans fluid is and there are lines leading to the trans cooler at the radiator.
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#4
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Quote:
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#5
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If it's connected to the radiator itself, it the transmission cooler line (about 3/8 inch diameter, as I recall), with red fluid.
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#6
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Agree with most. Tranny fluid is red, a line has a problem, inspect to find the problem.
Good luck.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#7
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there have been several threads on the replacement of these lines, here is one I found:
Bleeding Red on Christmas Day... |
#8
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Another point in favor of jacks if you have the facility for them... Hope your repair is smooth and possible.
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#9
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Yep, that's the one, crimped and leaking right at that bracket. I'll try your rubber band aid fix since I've got some 5/16" fuel hose laying around and that way I should be able to drive it. Obvious question, do I need to drain the tranny to do that or can I just put a bucket under me and go for it?
I've called a local MB Master mechanic that does some side jobs at home so I figure its time to let him assess my oil leaks while he's at it. Thanks for the speedy responses guys and Craig for the perfect link! By the way, have any of you tried the compression fitting fix that WHunter recommended?
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1982 MB 300D-T Veg Power Two tank conversion |
#10
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When mine leaked I just used the "hose bad-aid" for about a week until the dealer got the correct part. When I did mine, I only lost about a cup of tranny fluid (maybe a pint). Personally, I would rather replace the line than patch it. As I recall, the replacement line with all the grommets was less than $100 and it only took about an hour to replace it.
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#11
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On something that important I think I'd replace the line. (I surely would.) Too risky not to.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#12
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mine had a pinch in it from the metal bracket it mounts to... I cut out the old and put in a band aid. I inspect it every now and then.. it doesn't leak at all.. I do have new cooler lines on order..
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#13
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I've done the compression fitting trick on a fuel return line I managed to drill thru on a pickup once while drilling a frame. I can't see why it wouldn't work fine as long as you cut out the distorted portion. Ultimately replacing is the best fix, but a repair can get you by in the meantime. If the car slammed down pretty hard on the ramp, check out your underbody, especially any welded areas nearby and structural zones for impact damage, the sharp/thin edges of the ramp can concentrate force and cause a kink where it hit that can compromise the body strength,or make it buckle in a collision depending on where the kink would be.
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Chris 64 190D R.I.P. 80 240D W/617 engine -for sale 82 240D -for sale |
#14
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Quote:
Click "Buy Parts" at the top of the page and it's a lot cheaper than that. It is literally about a 5 minute job, and that is if you're going slow..... http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=21N00PKVE2A001EMWK&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1982&product=J2000-35198&application=000031977
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#15
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thanks Jimmy, it's the hard line though that is kinked. i gotta have something to get me to work the rest of the week so i'll band-aid it. again, to band aid, do i need to drain all the fluid?
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1982 MB 300D-T Veg Power Two tank conversion |
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