Sounds like you're describing negative camber. UCAs and its bushing are the most likely culprit, but if those don't appear to be the problem, here's a couple of other things you might want to check..

There's a big 'ol camber adjustment bolt through the LCA bushing holding the LCA to the frame. The eccentric washer & bolt head shouldn't allow that much movement, but if they've come loose and extended past the stops, or it the interior of the bushing is totally toast, then it might allow the LCA to pull out away from the center of the car enough to look that bad. Check to make sure the bolt shaft goes down the center of the LCA bushing. If it's off by enough to account for your camber, it should be really obvious.

The lower ball joint could also be worn out and allow the steering knuckle to shift outward a bit.

I'd think you'd notice either of these issues while driving, but add them to your list of things to check if the UCA and bushing looks good.

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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.

I did this buy going to the local hardware store, and getting the longest correct threaded bolt, and screwed it in, it held, so I could get the proper bolt with washers in.
I've read folks using a long screw driver to line up.

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83 SD

84 CD

My 'special tool' was an 8" piece of 3/8 'allthread' (threaded rod) fastened to a piece of angle. The other leg of the angle was bolted to factory-made holes in the inner fenders above the control-arm inner bushings, with an 8mm nut & bolt on the driver's side, and a 6mm bolt, threaded through the battery tray mounting hole on the passenger side. I attached a nut to the bolt thread protruding from the top of the battery tray hole to prevent the possibility of my tool ripping out the threaded insert.

To pull on the stabilizer, I attached a 'U' shaped piece of steel from my home-made spring compressor to the other end of the allthread. The rusty remains of the flanged sleeves from the old control-arm bushings made convenient spacers between the adjusting nut on the allthread, and the 'u', to pull in the stabilizer, and allow the bolt-holes for the new control arms to line up with their holes in the inner fender.

For some reason, my friend's 300D bolt holes lined up easily, so I didn't need my special tool to install his new control-arm.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Thanks for all the suggestions if I hadn't already said it.

I finally got off the mandatory overtime this week and got my weekends back, got to catching up on things around the house. While doing many much needed oil changes today I put the 80 in the air and looked around it while it was draining. Come to find out it is indeed the bushing on the upper arm where it bolts to the apron. I can see it visually and almost stick the tip of my pinky finger inside it on the back side, the arm is almost touching the apron. The other side is nowhere near as bad. So now the dilemma, looks like bushings aren't that pricy, but how hard are they to do? Or would it even be worth bothering on this car knowing it's not long lived for the road anyway? I mean, I've been driving it this way at least a month so far now.....I'm thinking it would live for a bit the way it is until the car gets retired.

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Chris
64 190D R.I.P.
80 240D W/617 engine -for sale
82 240D -for sale

Depending on how long you're going to drive it, about all you'll do is go through tires, as long as the bolt holds.
The bushings themselves are cheap, but you need to remove the arm to get to it, be careful to not damage any other part when you pull it out.

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83 SD

84 CD

There's a couple of decent ones out at the wrecker, I'm toying with the thought of pulling one, I'd get it cheaper than a bushing, and it would give me an idea of how much of a bear the job would or would not be to do so I'd know if I really want to get into it.

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Chris
64 190D R.I.P.
80 240D W/617 engine -for sale
82 240D -for sale

Perhaps, too many "Dukes of Hazzard"s with the car....

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

I just replaced an upper control arm this morning. It is STUPID easy. Took me an hour to do and I have never worked on a front end before.

I was getting terrible wear on the inside of the tire and pulling to the side, that got worse (even dangerous) as the tire wore down to the belts.

$47 for the whole control and with new bushings and a new ball joint and $3 for stabilizer bushings. $50 bucks and an hour of your time. Stupid easy.

When I pulled out the old control arm the bushing rubber was almost dust, and was off center about 1/2" or better. EWWWWW. No wonder I was having troubles.

I will try to post a pic when I can. I am off to do the transmission filter job as well as the power pump filter today. Already did the rear brakes and cooling system work.

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NC Benz
Fuquay-Varina, NC
1979 300D
1983 300D Turbo 260,000 Miles
1984 300D Turbo 345,000 Miles (sons car)
OBK #31
1998 Ford Expedition 5.4l (fer Haulin'!) 145,000
1973 19' SeaRay with 115 Mercury TOWER OF POWER!
Club Car Golf Cart 36V
Ex toys:
1967 Mustang 289 (First Car)
Fiat 124TC
1975 Honda CVCC
1980 Audi 5000 Turbo

Heyyy now, just because I have a gravel road......

Interesting thought though....would be my luck though if I did try that on it's last day running I'd smack the oil pan and trash the engine which I need,lol.

Gotta save whats left for spare parts.

Spent the day filling in all the chuck holes in the road from the storm washouts. That'll help some, at least, for my back every time I drive,lol.

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Chris
64 190D R.I.P.
80 240D W/617 engine -for sale
82 240D -for sale