I got it off! Here's what worked. 3/4 drive T bar with steering wheel turned full lockec to the left! I had to use all my might (which is not much lol) to break iit free. There is red thread lock on the bolt! That'splain it! I've always believed in finess over brute force but in this case bigger is definitely better. :D

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...1809_003-1.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...1809_001-2.jpg

My question is do they work on Allen Head Bolts? (I bought a set but have not had reason to use them yet.)

I had blue locktite on mine - 300sd

When I was getting my ignition tumbler out the hard way I tried to take off the steering wheel. My bolt was stuck on there GOOD. I had a large breaker bar and a 1/2in 10mm allen driver socket. I was using enough force to where I was afraid of breaking the breaker bar (no pun intended). Absolutely stuck. Ended up giving up on it and doing my best to work around the steering wheel.

I have to do this when I replace my combination switch hopefully before the rainy season. This is a good thread for ideas on how to avoid the horror of stripping that socket head. Almost did it while removing my fanclutch/pulley bolt. I am thinking PB blaster, a piece of 2X4 and a little heat (AFTER the PB blaster evaporates :eek:.)

The extra torque is due to friction under the tapered head.
 

The large surface area under the bolt head between the bolt and the steering wheel gives a lot of friction which makes it necessary to use more torque than the threads themselves would require. Same as a wheel bolt , which is why I always use neverseize on my wheel bolts. The hard metal of the bolt also deforms and squishes the potmetal of the steering wheel which contributes to the extra force. Cheers Dan

I thought it was the copious amount of red threadlock on the bolt that made it hard to undo. With the 3/4 T-bar, I was able to center the allen bit and not cock it one bit avoiding any possibility of stripping the allen head bolt. I don't see how a 2x4 will help to hold the steering wheel steady. I just turned it all the way to the left with engine running, no heat, applied equal torque on the T handle and it broke free immediately.

The 2 x 4 is placed through the spokes in the wheel and is used to provide counter-torque for the breaker bar. With a 2.5' length of 2 x 4 and an 18" breaker bar, the cap screw usually will release without any difficulty.

In your situation, I'm a bit confused as to where the counter-torque came from? If the engine was running, the steering lock wasn't used. So, it sounds like you were forcing the steering gear hard against its stop.......something that it's certainly not fond of and isn't recommended.

:confused:How long a 2x 4 and what do you brace it against?. With the T bar I was using, which required both hands, how is the 2 x 4 held? Do I need a 3rd hand?

I had the engine running so the wheel did not spring back on me and made it possible to put it hard against its stop. You think that would damage something in the steering? All the parts look pretty massive to me. What can break?

I didn't use a T bar. The 2x4 goes into the spokes and the cap screw is operated with the 18" breaker bar. If you position them correctly, you simply squeeze the two bars together and the bolt breaks free.

The pump must have complained a bit..........??