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Dyno'd my 1987 300D
I took my 1987 300D to the dyno last week, after turning up the full-load on the injection pump, and doing some road testing. The dyno video is at this link (18MB), you can see the dyno graphs at the end:
http://www.w124performance.com/movies/Mercedes/dyno/87_300D/ It put out approx 140hp at the wheels, with 190lb-ft of torque. Assuming a conservative 18% powertrain loss, that would be 170hp and 230lb-ft at the crank. Using a more generous 20% loss estimate translates into roughly 175hp and 235lb-ft at the crank. I also had the car weighed on a digital scale. After correcting for a few items in the car, it was 3600lbs with a full tank of fuel - well above the MB claimed curb weight of 3375. Even adjusting for the heavier brakes, tires, sway bars, etc that are on the car, that's still a big difference. My E500 numbers off by a similar amount. I'm seriously starting to think MB published "dry" weights, without fuel in the tank. That would almost exactly account for the discrepancy, on both cars. Anyway, this does answer a number of questions I've had. First, the Finns were right, 170-175hp may be all we can get with the stock pump (excluding propane or methanol injection). Second, my car was maxed out at 170hp (crank hp) when I turned up the full load screw out +0.5 turns a couple of years ago. The next +1.5 turns (done last month) did nothing except cause starting & idle problems. And finally, the excess weight is probably hampering the performance, compared to a bone-stock (or stripped down) model. My 0-60 is consistently in the low 9's, at ~2600' elevation. I'm guessing it might drop to high 8's near sea level. Photos of the dyno session are here: http://www.w124performance.com/images/dyno/87_300D/ I'll go back to the dyno after I get the hybrid pump built with 6mm elements. I'm hoping for 180hp (or more) at the rear wheels. I also plan to look into some different options for the turbo, and try to plumb an intercooler to help reduce EGT's. For a step-by-step tutorial on how to adjust the full-load screw on the OM602/603 pump, check out this thread... just be warned that you need an EGT gauge if you increase the power output, or you risk grenading the motor due to excessive temps. |
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How hot is hot?
Interesting. What are your EGTs now?
I haven't adjusted the full-load screw on mine yet, I'm still recovering from the discovery that I have only 5-1/2 working cylinders. Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
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Peak EGT's are higher of course, and they build faster. It's fine as long as I don't stay at WOT for more than 20-30 seconds. It's more of a problem in hot ambient temps, and when climbing long grades, but otherwise they're not excessive under normal driving conditions.
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You building it yourself or sending the pump off to finland? Also i know you have done a LSD upgrade to your diff but can it handle the extra power you plan on gaining with the new pump?
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Current: 05 E320 CDI 07 GL320 CDI 08 Sprinter 05 Dodge Cummins 01 Dodge Cummins Previous 2004 E55 AMG 2002 C32 AMG (#2) 1995 E300 1978 300D 1987 300D 2002 C32 AMG(blown motor :[ 1981 300SD 1983 300SD 1987 300SDL 2002 Jetta TDI 1996 S420 1995 S500 1993 190E 2.6 1992 190E 2.3 1985 190E 2.3 5-Speed |
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I'm not surprised on the weight Dave. Probably without options, including those which are standard in the US, such as SRS, ABS, A/C & ACC, Electric Windows and Locks, Power Sunroof, ... those power seats must weigh 100# each.
The door sticker on my late '87 says 930# CC, not sure whether that is with or without fuel but hopefully it is as equipped on options, a US market sticker. The tuning project sounds successful, sticking with the 2.65:1 gears or something a little hotter?
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
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Wow Dave, very cool stuff. After I get the new head on mine, this gives me something to shoot for
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1980 500SE/AMG Euro 1981 500SEL Euro 1982 380SEL 1983 300TD 1983 500SEC/AMG Euro 1984 500SEC 1984 300TD Euro 1986 190E 2.3-16 1986 190E 2.3 1987 300D 1997 C36 AMG 2003 C320T 4matic past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350 |
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Gutted cat?
Still have that AFM? What's your boost level? I turned my SDL up around half a turn around 18 months ago, been running great @ 13.5psi. Looks like we're up around 30hp/30tq over stock, not bad at all considering it was free to do. I prefer to keep my stuff simple, not really interested in going for an IC at this point, since it seems this power level is pretty safe long term. If it was low cost, fairly easy, and did not induce excess lag I would consider for sure.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#8
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Quote:
The 185mm LSD should be fine. The Finns often don't even bother upgrading the diffs. I'm planning to leave it in there until it grenades, and if that ever happens, then I'll build a 210mm diff. I expect the 185mm unit should handle at *least* 250hp. The 210mm is good through at least 500hp, which is way overkill for my needs. |
#9
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Quote:
I'm sticking with the 2.65 diff... anything lower (2.87, 3.07) would compromise MPG, freeway cruising, and top speed. As power increases, the car can tolerate taller gearing. If I got the power WAY up, I'd actually like a 2.47 ratio, but the speedo would need to be custom modified, since there was never a 2.47 installed in any 124, anywhere in the world (AFAIK). I also don't know if a 185mm gearset exists in that ratio. |
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Quote:
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#11
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Air Flow Meter. It's the big black box under the air filter housing.
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#12
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Quote:
Hrm, what turbocharger do you have on there (is this the KKK car)? My KKK is going on the shelf as I gave up looking for a reseal kit and it leaks BIG time. I am going to rebuild that 603 T3 from my parts car. I know it's a .50 trim if it can be compared to the KKK. (I'm modifying an extra T3 for my SD for the .50 trim wheel and housing from a Volvo, slightly more efficient) Interesting on the the side mount Z32 IC. I'll have to follow that install, seems like it'd have short piping to limit lag. Just don't want to deviate too far from stock for ease of upkeep. Yup, AFM is that box deal under the air cleaner. In any event, cool stuff!
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#13
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Ah, I thought that might be what AFM referred to. Yes it's still there, but the flapper door inside is jammed full open, so there's no restriction. It's been like that for a while now. There wasn't much difference with that mod, I doubt the AFM was hurting power levels at all.
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Quote:
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#15
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Nice! Did you notice a difference killing the ARV? Mine is still working because I was under the impression it didn't do much. Of course it can fall off at anytime.
I need to check the boost on the SDL and crank up the full load a bit, I'd be happy with slightly faster than stock.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
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