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  #16  
Old 04-06-2008, 01:15 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
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I have the "Da-Lan" receiver style hitch on my car, it has a 200lb tongue/car weight capacity, and 2000lbs towing. I've pulled a 350lb trailer + about 400lbs on it, with no issue. I was still able to fly down the freeway at 75-85 no problem....it didn't even increase my engine temps. My hitch is the style that mounts two bolts through the rear floor, and two through the bumper. It seems to be very strong/rigid. Nothing flexes or moves even with a good load on the trailer etc...

My dad's car has the "Reese" Euro-type hitch with a fixed ball. It has a massive cross bar that goes between the bumper shocks, with large U-clamps on the ends, plus two LARGE bolts that go through the bumper in the middle. Its also rated 200/2000. We've pulled our same trailer with it loaded down with a lot of building materials on it, probably over 700lbs worth....so that time it was pulling over 1000lbs, you could just barely tell it was there....it didn't really affect acceleration/braking at all. 617's are beasts!

Here's a pic of my hitch setup...



And this is the one on his car:


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'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
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  #17  
Old 03-05-2009, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdrayton View Post
Validius, thanks for the input.

What are you basing your statements that the 300D is not a tow vehicle on?

The information I have tending to make me think it's OK for under 1500KG is:

1. The tow ratings specified in Europe for the ostensibly the same car is 1500KG.

2. Others have done it and haven't had problems. One guy towed a trailer with furniture and stuff in it for about 1000 miles. Come to think of it, in all the posts I read, I didn't read anything from anyone saying they towed something and it damaged anything.

3. A number of american and European manufacturers make a trailer hitch specifically for this model, that is rated at 2000lbs.

If you have other information that negates this, please let us know. Otherwise, please state your opinions as such.
You guys are forgetting that 95% of vehicles, including Mercs, sold in Europe, are manual transmission cars. A manual tranny can handle larger loads, longer time than a vanilla (stock) automatic can. Regards.
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  #18  
Old 03-05-2009, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobetta View Post
yeah, but that fancy graph isn't for mercedes trannies!!

I have towed a bit w/ my td, and no problems. finally upgraded my hitch to a curt receiver hitch recently. A cooler is not a bad idea. cheap insurance if you tow more than a few times a year.

keep fresh fluid in it, too.

That fancy graph shows the hotter the oil gets, the more the oil gets cooked. the more times the oil is run into the higher temps, the sooner it shortens its life. Then the trans needs to be serviced more often.

Doesn`t make any difference it is a MB or a ford or Honda trans. cook the oil then it coats or varnishes the inards of the trans.

These transmissions don`t have a temp gauge, so there is just guess work as to how hot they really get.

My 2˘ worth.

Charlie
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  #19  
Old 03-05-2009, 09:26 PM
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[QUOTE=Maxbumpo;1746817]In Europe, the hitches that are fitted have extensive bracing in the rear body channels and a massive cross piece under the rear bumper. I had an '85 300 TD Euro (non-turbo, 5 spd) that I fitted a Euro hitch, and I've also put one on my '87 300TD. Both were aftermarket but fit extremely well and are VERY solid. I bought both in Italy while on vacation (U.S. Customs was rather curious!). Neither one attaches to the bumper; all the attachment points are on the body.

I tow my sailboat, which on the trailer is about 2500 lbs.

Attached is diagram from the EPC which gives an idea of the bracing.[/QUOTE

Last year, I acquired an '84 Euro 300TD, with an OE German trailer hitch. I can say at least with the W123 body, the reason these cars can tow in Europe, but not in the US, is beause some of the hevy bracing for the Euro trailer hitch occupies the same holes in the rear body that are normally fitted in the US with the 5-mph bumper shocks. The Euro hitch kit is not designed to be fitted to W123s with the 5-mph US bumper.
Also, the American hitches commonly sold for these cars that bolt to the shocks or trunk-floor, and the bumper itself, can interfere with the energy absorbing function of the 5-mph bumper.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #20  
Old 03-05-2009, 10:21 PM
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Take a look at this hitch. LOL

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p3907.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D15%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D54&item=150330005142&category=6330&viewitem=
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1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
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  #21  
Old 03-05-2009, 11:08 PM
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the curt hitch for the wagons seems to be about the best design readily available in the US. and it is made in the US.

you do need to drop the bumper to mount it. it does not seem to interfere with the bumper's 5mph function, but I will report back if I test that.

it will fit sedans, but the tailpipe will need to be modded like an estate is. maybe you can buy a TD tailpipe(from the muffler back) or make your own.

I scrapped a 300D on a tandem car trailer with my TD using this hitch. 7880 Gross. I tow my enclosed 5x8 utility trailer full of carpentry tools with it. I have hauled over a Cubic Yard of topsoil with it(the lil' trailer did not like that).

I have a nice big parallel flow aux tranny cooler that I stole off a ford exploder at the PNP. I dont yet have a temp gauge, but maybe before it gets too hot this summer.

best price I know of is JCWhitney, just shy of $300. here it is...

out of the box

in place on the car

forward bracing

wrapped up
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Last edited by mobetta; 03-05-2009 at 11:14 PM.
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  #22  
Old 03-05-2009, 11:10 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
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That just looks dangerous.....not to mention it is way too high...thats like 8-10" higher than a hitch would be....
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #23  
Old 03-05-2009, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
That fancy graph shows the hotter the oil gets, the more the oil gets cooked. the more times the oil is run into the higher temps, the sooner it shortens its life. Then the trans needs to be serviced more often.

Doesn`t make any difference it is a MB or a ford or Honda trans. cook the oil then it coats or varnishes the inards of the trans.

These transmissions don`t have a temp gauge, so there is just guess work as to how hot they really get.

My 2˘ worth.

Charlie

I am not disputing the above but since the Automatic Trans Oil Cooler is part of the Radiator how is the Fluid going to over heat.

And, if it somehow the Trans did over heat wouldn't it show up on you Coolant Temp Gauge (assuming it has the normal amount of fluid in it).

Or, would this be more of a problem if you have a Manual Transmission; sins they have on Cooler at all.
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  #24  
Old 03-06-2009, 01:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I am not disputing the above but since the Automatic Trans Oil Cooler is part of the Radiator how is the Fluid going to over heat.

And, if it somehow the Trans did over heat wouldn't it show up on you Coolant Temp Gauge (assuming it has the normal amount of fluid in it).

Or, would this be more of a problem if you have a Manual Transmission; sins they have on Cooler at all.
Most of the heat generated in an automatic trans comes from the slippage of the torque converter and clutches.....modern auto's have a locking torque converter....so it eliminates a lot of the heat-production and energy loss.

Manuals don't have that problem, as there is no slippage when the clutch is engaged fully.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #25  
Old 03-06-2009, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobetta View Post
the curt hitch for the wagons seems to be about the best design readily available in the US. and it is made in the US.

you do need to drop the bumper to mount it. it does not seem to interfere with the bumper's 5mph function, but I will report back if I test that.

it will fit sedans, but the tailpipe will need to be modded like an estate is. maybe you can buy a TD tailpipe(from the muffler back) or make your own.

I scrapped a 300D on a tandem car trailer with my TD using this hitch. 7880 Gross. I tow my enclosed 5x8 utility trailer full of carpentry tools with it. I have hauled over a Cubic Yard of topsoil with it(the lil' trailer did not like that).

I have a nice big parallel flow aux tranny cooler that I stole off a ford exploder at the PNP. I dont yet have a temp gauge, but maybe before it gets too hot this summer.

best price I know of is JCWhitney, just shy of $300. here it is...

out of the box

in place on the car

forward bracing

wrapped up
Yes, that looks like a good aftermarket design that won't interfere with the 5-mph bumper function.
When I got the Euro TD, a PO had already replaced the front bumper with a US one, but the Euro rear bumper had been hit and provided almost no protection for the tailgate, so I decided to go ahead and install a US rear bumper as well. Unfortunately, I had to remove the German hitch. No big loss, as I wasn't planning to do much towing with the car, but it would have been nice to keep the option of occasionally pulling a small utility trailer.
How much does that Curt hitch weigh? The Euro bumper I removed, with the German hitch and it's four reinforcing beams weighed more than the US bumper & shocks that replaced it.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #26  
Old 03-06-2009, 01:00 PM
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I am not sure of the weight-(50lbs??) I reckon jcwhitney could give shipping weight. it came in a box with the receiver and a pice of paper, so ship weight would be spot on.
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  #27  
Old 03-11-2009, 12:41 PM
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Hmm, mine that came on the euro 240D has a plate bolted to the bumper mount like above, and a brace bolted to the spare tire area.
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  #28  
Old 03-11-2009, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
Hmm, mine that came on the euro 240D has a plate bolted to the bumper mount like above, and a brace bolted to the spare tire area.
You mean like this one?


It just happens that this one is for sale as well


I have used it to haul a 600 lb trailer with probably about 1300 lbs of stuff in it. this was in my 300D and worked with no issues.
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  #29  
Old 03-11-2009, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdrayton View Post
[B][U]After a lot of searching around, I found a towbar from Uhaul. It is made by Curt manufacturing curtmfg.com and is Uhaul part # 28033. This hitch is rated to tow up to 2000lbs and retails for $99.95 not including labor, so it's Class I -200lbs GVWR, 200lbs tongue weight. It attaches to the bumper and subframe. Takes 4 holes and about 30 minutes to put on, pretty easy actually. It's not a big Class II type hitch. I'll try get some photos up.

snip

If there are any questions, or something I haven't covered, feel free to post.

Happy Towing
Hi pdrayton, I called Uhaul and they told me 28033 is not a good number. They want to know make year and model, when given, they said no hitch available. WTF? What is Uhaul's part number or Curt's p/n? Do you have pictures of your install? Is it the same hitch that mobetta has (in pics above)?
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  #30  
Old 03-11-2009, 03:59 PM
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That curt hitch looks just like the one that I made, except I don't have the added bracing from the lower corners to the frame rails. No doubt the Curt is a better design, maybe I will add similar braces to mine. I think I spent about $20 on the materials.

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