Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962? - Page 28 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JamesDean · #**406** 10-14-2012, 05:15 PM

I am starting to regret purchasing this 300D.

Todays Failures:
1) Failure to swap 190E ABS units due to stripped head on a fitting
2) Failure to swap 300D soft lines due to stubborn fittings
3) Failure of turbo to be anything but useless. 0-60 time consistently 20 seconds. Is that 240D world?
4) Failure of governor. It popped out. AGAIN. I do not know how. Secondary pump is disabled. Plastic gears appear intact. No broken metal on the snap ring groove area.

I've got it scheduled for a visit to the shop on Wednesday to check out the ATF leak I've been having, but that may have just been overfilled and/or a slightly lose pan bolt.

Additionally, I might have them install this actuator and I will handle the plumbing aspect of it. I'll need to get new line for the gauge that I have as I believe there is a kink in the line.

And probably have to get a boost controller as that actuator cuts out at like 7 psi.

On #4. We have it almost reseated but the problem is it will not go "inwards" fully so to remedy this. The secondary pump will be completely gutted. The two drive gears are already removed. Now the rest of the innards will be sacrificed.

Pics from Army's 722 teardown.

I know they replaced this secondary pump with a plain cover at some point. If anyone knows that part number I would be interested in it. Thanks. Edit: Found the part number I believe. Discuss here:
91 300D 2.5. Wont Go Over 2,000 rpms!

engatwork · #**407** 10-14-2012, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Sure, we have forward your email to XXXXX@ATPTURBO.COM and she will keep your email on file and notify you as soon as these actuators are
available.

This is the reply I got back from atp turbo. Seems they should have some by the end of the month

.

I'm still trying to sort electrical issues with the 93 300D I'm working on. Go out one day and it starts fine, go out the next and it will not do anything. I've pulled the starter cut out relay out and reseated it and it worked. May be an on-going issue with this relay (to the left behind the instrument cluster). I forgot the exact nomenclature for this relay.

shertex · #**408** 10-14-2012, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

This is the reply I got back from atp turbo. Seems they should have some by the end of the month

.

My impression was that they were no longer available from Garrett (ATP's source). Has that changed?

engatwork · #**409** 10-14-2012, 05:47 PM

IDK where they get them from. Just that they should have some by the end of the month.

JamesDean · #**410** 10-14-2012, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

My impression was that they were no longer available from Garrett (ATP's source). Has that changed?

This was my impression as well. Did the email specifically spell out that they would have them by the end of the month or was that just inferred?

I think I am going to stick the course with what I've got. I think the manual boost controller plan will end up successful.

I wonder if my lack of turbo-ing led to my high mpg numbers on my return trip...

compress ignite · #**411** 10-14-2012, 06:02 PM

Jim,

"starter cut out relay"
Is this part of the neutral safety switch system?
Or that GD Buzzer for the Key In/Out/Seatbelt ?
Do you have the Bosch part number that's on it?
(format should be X XXX XXX XXX)
Bosch #s can be cross referenced to Mercedes.

travis.pc · #**412** 10-20-2012, 04:22 PM

[QUOTE=compress ignite;3020598]JD,
Even if the $40. Pressure Actuator you showed us on E-Bay had to have it's Actuating Rod Length "Adjusted"
and re-threaded (Just Like Dave did on the original )it would work...As long as it's fully open pressure could
be adjusted down to 14PSI [If y'all we're gonna use a Manual controller]

T25 T28 GT28 Turbo Internal Wastegate Actuator Nissan | eBay

Was this actuator ever tested to confirm that it works, the same as the one recommended in this thread? If so it would save about $40 for me. Thanks!

JamesDean · #**413** 10-27-2012, 05:15 PM

FINALLY an update!

Alright everyone. I've got my parts all assembled.

Parts List

-Wastegate Actuator, $40,

T25 T28 GT28 Turbo Internal Wastegate Actuator Nissan | eBay

-Manual Boost Controller, $10,

Adjustable 1 30 Manual Turbo turbocharger Black Boost Controller Universal JDM | eBay

-Boost Gauge, $25, Buy Sunpro Style Line Mechanical Vacuum/Boost Gauge - Black Dial CP8213 at Advance Auto Parts

- 1/4" Fuel Hose, buy locally

- 1x 1/8" MNPT Coupling, $3.29

- 2x 1/8" MNPT Hose Fittings, $1.99

- Hose Clamps.

Here is the mock up for installation:

I dont plan on leaving the boost gauge installed permanently, just long enough to set the controller to 14 or 17 psi or so.

shertex · #**414** 10-27-2012, 06:12 PM

Nice job, Kris....thanks for your pioneering efforts. We'll be interested to see how it all works out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

FINALLY an update!

Alright everyone. I've got my parts all assembled.

Parts List

-Wastegate Actuator, $40,

T25 T28 GT28 Turbo Internal Wastegate Actuator Nissan | eBay

-Manual Boost Controller, $10,

Adjustable 1 30 Manual Turbo turbocharger Black Boost Controller Universal JDM | eBay

-Boost Gauge, $25, Buy Sunpro Style Line Mechanical Vacuum/Boost Gauge - Black Dial CP8213 at Advance Auto Parts

- 1/4" Fuel Hose, buy locally

- 1x 1/8" MNPT Coupling, $3.29

- 2x 1/8" MNPT Hose Fittings, $1.99

- Hose Clamps.

Here is the mock up for installation:

I dont plan on leaving the boost gauge installed permanently, just long enough to set the controller to 14 or 17 psi or so.

JamesDean · #**415** 10-27-2012, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

Nice job, Kris....thanks for your pioneering efforts. We'll be interested to see how it all works out.

So far, it seems unbolting the old actuator is the most difficult part.

That and I think my governor has popped out AGAIN....

JamesDean · #**416** 10-27-2012, 07:47 PM

Alright, got the old actuator out. It looks dirty as **** but it still holds vacuum. So my problem must have been in the transducers and/or other bits not working. I know that flap controller and the EGR don't hold vacuum.

So here are some pictures of the old and new actuator. The new actuator's rod end had to be ground down a bit so that the wastegate's rod's c-clip groove went through the rod end. I also lost the old c-clip so that will have to be replaced somehow...

Did my best to setup a test rig and set the controller using my air compressor. From the test, it looked like we achieved 15-17 psi at fully opened. The gauge from Advance Autoparts is crappy. But it the pressures and actuator movement seems acceptable for the time being. Now we've got to bolt everything back together and route the lines. The 1/4" line is a bit big for the controller and gauge tap block but with clamps and some
electrical tape it works out OK.

Ahhhhh mostly success. Car drives much faster/quicker. I also learned my friend, who initially reported the governor being out again..was just full of it. According to my boost gauge I am achieving 7 psi peak, so more adjustments are needed, but progress in the right direction has been made. FINALLY.

JamesDean · #**417** 10-27-2012, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

It will make 17 psi right now. The ALDA is still intact on the car. May try to tweek it when I come up with a way to control the boost pressure down a little.

I emailed them to see if the wastegate controllers are available yet.

Hm, 17 psi at what rpm? I would like to set my controller to achieve 17 psi or there abouts.

engatwork · #**418** 10-28-2012, 08:21 AM

17 psi at WOT on the only hill in the area. Keep in mind that this was with the existing actuator rigged up to keep the wastegate closed completely.

gsxr · #**419** 10-28-2012, 11:59 AM

FYI. There's not much point in setting the boost pressure higher than necessary to make peak power and eliminate black smoke at WOT. All you're doing is overheating the intake air charge. Pretty likely that you'll make peak power at 10-12psi, and if so, there will be zero power gain bumping it up to 17psi. YMMV, etc...

JamesDean · #**420** 10-28-2012, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

FYI. There's not much point in setting the boost pressure higher than necessary to make peak power and eliminate black smoke at WOT. All you're doing is overheating the intake air charge. Pretty likely that you'll make peak power at 10-12psi, and if so, there will be zero power gain bumping it up to 17psi. YMMV, etc...

The 300D goes back up to the shop Monday night for some trans seal replacements. I'll get to setting the boost more inline with 10-12 psi and getting more data after that. I think the trans might be a bit low on fluid so I'll just let the shop deal with that.

It does drive completely different with a working turbo lol. I've just got to clean up that side of the engine bay. I'll post some more pics of the hose install and everything.