That was the public price... and I just double-checked, a copy/paste from their email is as follows:

433489-12 is $79.

Looks like my memory was four bucks off - d'oh!

Forgive me for my ignorance, but i'm trying to understand what all needs to be done to do this modification. I have no problem with using my tap and dye set to add some threads, but i'm sort of unclear on what all i'll need to do this modification other than the wastegate/rod combination .

Did the idea of connecting a vacum line to the "test port" rather than drilling and tapping the turbo itself ever pan out ?

Or is it necessary to drill and tap the turbo ?

So basically the only thing i have to change to rid myself of the EGR is to buy this replacement wastegate ?

Do i also need an EGR block off plate ?

This won't interfere with the car's computer ?

Basically, i'm asking for a complete walkthrough/description of this mod .

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93 300 D 2.5 turbo

GP -- I am in the process of finding a suitable actuator. I *believe* that a pressure activated unit should work just fine getting its signal from the test port as long as you don't mind routing the boost line all the way over to that area, but gsxr's method looks better if you can do it. You have a shorter boost line and less worry of heat or mechanical interference. I just didn't want to drill and tap out of laziness (or, I should say, apprehension to dig too deep into the car when I'd like to be driving it to work out its few other kinks).

Gsxr has been very helpful in providing info for the mod, and I will be trying to do it myself as soon as I can find a suitable actuator. I am trying to locate one from an '87 190D Turbo to see if it will work. If I can, I'll post that part number.

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

Yes this is a fantastic thread ! GSXR and cscmc1 i really appreciate all of the info.

So basically what we are doing here is creating a mechanical/manual wastegate control so we can block the EGR without the EDS cutting out boost via the wastegate due to the computer sensing no EG to re-circulate ?

Or does installing a manual/mechanical wastegate automatically cut out the Exhaust gas re-circulation, and therefore not require an EGR block off plate ?

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93 300 D 2.5 turbo

That is exactly correct. It also solves mysterious problems where the computer kills boost for unknown reasons. These problems can be a real pain to diagnose and fix. Removing the computer controlled wastegate entirely, and reverting back to the pre-1990 fully mechanical setup, takes care of all that in one fell swoop.


Well, no, not really. You'll still need to disable the EGR by at least disconnecting the vacuum line. And the EGR valve itself could leak internally (not likely, but it has happened). A block-off plate is still the best solution, but if you need to pass a visual smog check, all the smog apparatus can remain in place... just plug the vacuum source line above the vac pump that feeds the transducers, so they will no longer operate the EGR or flapper valve.

Great stuff.

How hard is it to remove the turbo in order to tap the housing ? I'm a fairly intermediate mechanic, i've torn down and rebuilt a motor recently.

Is it not recomended to drill and tap while it is mounted to the motor ?

So in theory you should be able to simply remove the vacum line going to the egr (after you've done the wastegate mod) and providing it doesn't leak internally you wont have any exhaust gas recirculating into your intake ?

Also, the "F" vacum fitting, is this what you used to re-route the vacum system after you removed that rats nest of vacum lines ?

Are all the vacum lines and transducers etc. fairly easy to locate and yank, or do i have to have a pretty extensive knowledge of the vacum system to know which lines to pull ?

Would it be possible to drill and tap the crossover pipe while on the vehicle like another person stated earlier in the thread, in order to receive manifold pressure to activate the wastegate, or is the crossover pipe just easier to remove than the turbo in order to tap for pressure ?

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93 300 D 2.5 turbo

Removing the turbo isn't very hard, just tedious. If you can find enough room to drill it on the car, and put something inside the tube to prevent shavings from entering the intake air stream, go for it. The main problem is lack of space.

After the wastegate is replaced with a pressure unit, yes, you just disconnect (and plug) the hoses going to both the EGR and the flapper valve. If you remove the rat's nest, the F-fitting makes for an cleaner installation, but you could just plug the unused port if desired. The rat's nest is all interconnected, it's pretty straightforward to remove... just requires pulling the airbox to access them and remove. A photo of the stuff removed is shown at this link.

Gsxr -- did you simply remove the "rats nest" and replace it with a line that runs from the pump to the vent line that runs into the cabin? Or did you just delete that vent line? I can't remember which you said you did. Thanks again!

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

The vacuum source line, from the vac pump, must be sealed off - do not connect it to the vent line. The vent line(s), if any, can be removed entirely. The 1990-93 setup is a little different than the '87 setup. The '87 runs a vent line towards the brake booster, which I pulled from the engine compartment, and capped off by the booster. The 90-93 has a vent going the other way, according to my notes... but I'd have to double-check, since I don't remember exactly.

I think 90-93 has 2 vent lines (one on the pass side and one on the driver's -- one enters at the pass side firewall, I am sure of that. I didn't get that either, as it comes off the vacuum line for the "rats nest" as I recall. I thought it was odd to have a vacuum line run to vent, but I don't think there are any vacuum consumers behind the dash on the passenger's side, and the line I am thinking of does have a filter, which the diagrams show would be a vent line. You have correctly identified its source in the picture you supplied of the removed "rats nest" components. I figured it wouldn't hurt anything to just unplug it, but was curious.

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

No need to drill into the turbo,just remove the crossover pipe and the short one that connects the crossover to the turbo,drill and tap a 1/8npt hole in the short pipe clean out the chips,screw in a 90degree nipple and put it back on,no danger of anything getting in the turbo.If you lack the drill and tap just about any garage or machine shop could drill and tap for little money. My $.02 Don

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Red Green "This is only temporary,Unless it works!"

97 E300D 157000 miles
87 300TD ?141k? miles

oldiesel is right, its too much work to pull the entire turbo just to drill/tap a hole. The crossover tube, or intake manifold, will work just as well as the turbo housing. You can also just pull the compressor housing by removing the 6 bolts that hold it on.

This is awesome stuff, i'm deffinately going to get on this . I just need to decide what to punch a hole in, the crossover pipe, or the turbo housing .

GSX, did you have any luck on a part number for the proper fitting wastegate setup ? I have no problem threading the rod to fit, heck that just adds to the fun .


Would you mind posting the updated partnumbers one more time so i can get this all straight ?


Thanks.

Edit: I went through and read the posts again and saved pictures and part numbers this time around. But GSX, is there anyway you could post up some more pictures of your "EGR delete" . Also, where did you get the 1/8 vacum line 90 degree brass fitting, was it a local parts store or something you had to order ?

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93 300 D 2.5 turbo

FWIW, I think I might drill & tap the EGR delete plate that I ordered from BC. That way, if I *want* to go back to stock at any time, I could do so. Can anyone think of a reason NOT to do this?

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

I would be hesitant to take the signal from the intake manifold; especially if you are ever going to add an intercooler. You want the wastegate actuator to "see" the pressure the turbo is putting out as quickly as possible, the farther down-stream it is the longer it will take the wastegate to react. The reaction time will be especially slow if there is a whole intercooler that needs to be pressurized before the wastegate reacts.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine