Cold weather, cold, dead battery...

[rrgrassi]

I currently have an Interstate battery in the car. It is now about dead. Seems it does not like the cold weather anymore.

Anyway, I want to get away from the typical lead/acid since I repaired a rust through during this past summer.

What do you think of this one? It's pricey at $322.67, but a full 3 year warranty and an 8 year service life seems good. I had the motor cycle on in my Goldwing, and I had no issues with it.

Here's the link....

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1700mjt.htm

I now get to call AAA so I can get home.

[RAYMOND485]

1984 300d Turbo 147k
Autozone $90.00 Diy

[Parrot of Doom]

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

I currently have an Interstate battery in the car. It is now about dead. Seems it does not like the cold weather anymore.

Anyway, I want to get away from the typical lead/acid since I repaired a rust through during this past summer.

What do you think of this one? It's pricey at $322.67, but a full 3 year warranty and an 8 year service life seems good. I had the motor cycle on in my Goldwing, and I had no issues with it.

Here's the link....

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1700mjt.htm

I now get to call AAA so I can get home.

That is a stupidly expensive battery. I wouldn't bother, just get a half decent one.

[Robert Squires]

* You're probably aware that a fully-charged battery in good shape has half the electrical capacity at 0 degreesF that it has at 70 degreesF. That's just the nature of the lead-sulfuric acid interaction. And I don't think that any of the newest battery technology gets around that temperature-fact-of-life.
* So, I would agree with those who recommend a standard battery like the 75 mo. Interstate MTP93. I believe that Interstate is the MBNA recommended replacement battery. Once upon a time, Mercedes shipped batteries dry from Germany, just like a spare part, but I think the freight is just too costly today.
* If you want to pursue the "hi-tech" battery option, be sure you learn the cold weather performance specs for the battery. Or you'll be in the same place you could've been for a third of the cost.
* By the way, at least put a volt meter on the existing battery to sample charging system output. If you've got a problem there, your new battery won't help you for long.

[rrgrassi]

Well, the car and myself are at home. The car was put on the flat bed and taken home. I have the block heater and trickle charger hooked up. They sent a gasser tow truck, and true to form, jumping did not work.

Yes, I understand how cold weather affects batteries, and how colder weather means a exponential drop in electrical capacity.

I'm still leaning towards the Optima or Odyssey, only for the lack of acid eating up the battery tray, no corroded terminals, etc. BTW, the Odyssey I had on my bike was able to jump start my gasser truck when it's battery took a dump.

Last month I had 14.3 volt reading at the battery terminals, engine idling, lights on.

[toomany MBZ]

Optima, if you need to.
On my SD, I replaced all GP's, still had trouble starting in the cold, new starter, much better.

[kerry]

Just put a rubber or plastic tray under the battery to catch the acid. Much cheaper solution.

[estod]

I've had good luck with felt washers that go around the batt posts before you reinstall the cables -- catch the acid leaking out around the posts, eliminate the corrosion build-up. $2-$3

There's often an overflow tube on batteries -- make sure the supplied hose -- or a longer one -- is installed, to keep any acid away from sheet metal.

[Alberta Luthier]

Originally Posted by estod

I've had good luck with felt washers that go around the batt posts before you reinstall the cables -- catch the acid leaking out around the posts, eliminate the corrosion build-up. $2-$3

There's often an overflow tube on batteries -- make sure the supplied hose -- or a longer one -- is installed, to keep any acid away from sheet metal.

My old dad (may he rest in peace) used to soak the felt washers in hot vasiline. Then clean and wrap the post with masking tape, put the washers on, remove the tape then put on your clean clamps. It is a bit of a job, but you do it once and you don't have a slow short across a damp battery top again for the 5 or 6 year life of the battery. Isn't it funny how as the years go by we more and more respect the experiance the old guys had.

[tankowner]

Well, it is really up to you. There are obviously some advantages to buying one of these gel batteries - I am assuming that is what this is. But if the only thing you are concerned with is avoiding corrosion caused by leaking acid, then you could probably just grab a lead-calcium "maintenance free" battery at a much cheaper price - these are sealed, so they can't leak and they are more resistant to corrosion.

One the other hand, the gel batteries last much longer and can be deep cycled several times without killing the battery - they do have good qualities, which is why you pay so darn much.

Personally, I just go with the mid-range. A lot of batteries now have 1 year full warranties and then are pro-rated for another 5 or 6 years, just hold on to your receipt.

[thesst]

I got one from Kragen for 90 bucks when mine went bad a few months ago. Makes for STRONG cold starts.

1100 cold cranking amps. That's some power.

[MB-Owner-in-ind]

All of my batteries have a provision for a hose to be connected to the outgas port which is a source of a lot of acid laden gas. Just route this gas to the ground via a plastic hose. Then repair/paint the battery tray and you will be golden.

[pawoSD]

I have an MB OEM battery, cranks the car right up. My dad's car has a 10 year old energizer in it, STILL cranks the car over w/out a prob even in the coldest temps (0F and below!). A few years ago when he had a couple bad glowplugs he cranked for over 50 seconds on that battery to get it going, and it did! Crazy.

[Robert Squires]

* rrgrassy, looks like you've covered all the bases. And there's a lot of useful advise in this thread. Can't say that's the case with every thread on this forum.
* I checked out the URL in your post for the Odyssey battery. That's a dry cell battery. Didn't even realize such a thing was commercially available for anything larger than a flashlight.
* If I were still driving diesels, lived in areas with weeks of sub zero night time temperature, and had to leave the car outside, I would probably try one of those dry cells. Of course, if the car repeatedly makes you late for work, that's a very good reason too. Also, assuming that all your regular diesel maintenance is up to date, an expensive battery is a lot cheaper than a different car.
* Interesting that the Odyssey comes out of California (or am I thinking of something else). Not exactly home of the severe climate. I wonder how the dry cell does in extreme heat (bumper-to-bumper traffic on a 100degF day w/ the air on).
* The standard wet cell battery is, with age and use, prone to sulfating and cell-continuity problems. I wonder what the main threats are for the Odyssey dry cell. Is the battery finished when there's no longer a chemical reaction (like a flashlight battery) or can other conditions (mechanical, thermal) defeat it? Would be interesting to know what the most common reason is for warranteed batteries.

[rrgrassi]

Guys, yes, this is all very good information. I got the car started today thanks to the trickle charger and the block heater. It only cranks for a 1-2 seconds before it fires off. I like working with my hands and I like mechanical things, so I do keep up on the maintenance. I live by the "if you want reliability, it must be reliably maintained."

Robert, thanks for the additional technical info.

Thanks for the help and the input!