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  #16  
Old 02-06-2008, 02:10 PM
vstech's Avatar
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7" sounds low, I am sure there are persons out there that can get 9 or more inches... it's gotta be harder than that to get a golf ball through a garden hose...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
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My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
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  #17  
Old 02-06-2008, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
7" sounds low, I am sure there are persons out there that can get 9 or more inches...

It takes about 7 in to activate the shut off valve - that's where I was going with that.
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  #18  
Old 02-06-2008, 02:53 PM
RAYMOND485
 
Join Date: May 2005
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Vacuum Shut Off

1984 300d Turbo 146k
Buy A Vacuum Test At Performanceproducts4benz.com No 58-013 $67.95 Its A Pressure Tester On Top To 10 Psi To Test Alda Turbo Pressure Use A Fuel Pressure Gage 0-30 In. Vacuum To 0-10 Psi, With
Adapters Their Is A Diy This Site If Leaking You Will Have Oil In The
Vacuum Line And Will Go To The Ign Switch Inside Under The Dash Cover, Order A New Vacuum Valve This Site Their Is Two Gaskets
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  #19  
Old 02-06-2008, 09:05 PM
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Yeah, I guess youre right...perhaps Im just delaying the inevitable. Seems like the most complicated problems can be fixed with the simplest ways...I'll invest in one. Where would one go about getting a rubber boot set for these cars, I might as well replace hoses and boots. After I get a mity vac, I'll see what turns up...however, Im pretty sure that its the valve...I gave that tube hell and it wouldnt turn off!
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  #20  
Old 02-07-2008, 02:53 PM
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86' 300SDL...found the problem...how do I fix?

Well, gentlemen...it was indeed the stop valve...the mity vac confirmed it...NOW, how do I replace the darn thing!? I bought a new valve (got hosed on it too) but now, I dont know how to take the old one off!

The 300SDL has the intake manifold above the pump...overhanging the stop valve is a plug (electrical) that I dont know how to remove.

How do you get to the other bolt on the block side of the valve!?

Any tips on replacing the valve...Im a sitting duck until I know how to remove the old valve...and Im NOT taking it to that guy I bought the valve from...Im buying all my parts from here from now on.
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  #21  
Old 02-07-2008, 02:58 PM
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Yeah, fast lane rules!
take some good pics, and I will try to help.
Brian may chime in, as he seems to be the expert on the SDL...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #22  
Old 02-07-2008, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Find the smaller line that is the output from the vacuum pump. It will go to a five way connector. One supply and four consumers. Two of the consumers go to the right side of the engine. Cut these two lines and plug the hoses (right at the five way connector).

Drive it and see if the problem disappears.
Brian -- Currently installing a #17 head on my '87. Are both those vacuum lines to the right (left as I stand at the front of the car) for the EGR? One line heads to a device kinda under the air box that leads to a portion of the turbo. Is that egr-related also?

I want to make sure they have nothing to do with boost control or wastegate operation before I delete them (along with that damned egr).

Thanks
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  #23  
Old 02-07-2008, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lux View Post
Brian -- Currently installing a #17 head on my '87. Are both those vacuum lines to the right (left as I stand at the front of the car) for the EGR? One line heads to a device kinda under the air box that leads to a portion of the turbo. Is that egr-related also?

I want to make sure they have nothing to do with boost control or wastegate operation before I delete them (along with that damned egr).

Thanks
One might be the ARV control if you have it. Or both can be EGR. Nothing on that side of the engine is required.
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  #24  
Old 02-07-2008, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
One might be the ARV control if you have it. Or both can be EGR. Nothing on that side of the engine is required.
Then all that crap is gone!!

Thanks.

BTW -- Who decided EGR was a good idea for diesel engines?
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  #25  
Old 02-07-2008, 11:19 PM
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Alright, I successfully installed the valve. Here are some tips!

THIS CAN BE DONE WITHOUT REMOVING THE INTAKE MANIFOLD...DONT WASTE YOUR TIME REMOVING IT!

1. Remove vacuum hoses in immediate vicinity...old vacuum tubes and heat cause brittleness.

2. Remove the plug next to the valve...this involves pulling the lock tab towards you and (in my case) using a flat blade screwdiver to pry it out. In some cases, the alda may be blocking it...just twist the alda out of the way.

3. Now comes the tough part...you have to take the alda off...this is hard because you dont have a lot of space for the bigger wrenches...to remove the alda, use a crescent wrench to hold the bottom nut and use a large pair of channel lock pliers to turn the alda...remember, lefty loosy, righty tighty!
The alda will have juuuuust enough room to come off the base with a little gentle maneurving. The ALDA is merely a diaphrahm type device used for the regulation of fuel...no fluids should come out!

4. Remove the two 10MM bolts holding in the SOV (shut off valve). You may have to use a screwdriver to break its seal from the injector pump. Pull out the valve...the lock nut for the electrical plug wont be a problem with some fairly gentle maneuvering.

VERY IMPORTANT...PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE POSITION OF THE VALVE ON THE PUMP BEFORE REMOVING...AN IMPROPERLY INSTALLED VALVE WILL CAUSE DIESEL RUNAWAY!!!

5. Looking inside, you will see where the stop lever comes into the pump...the end will have a little fork...that fork is where you want to put the tab on the valve. The tab has got to be WITHIN the fork...not over, not under! Some aftermarket valves are made differently...a metal valve may have a nipple coming out horizontal whereas a plastic one has it coming out the top...THIS IS WHERE KNOWING THE POSITION OF THE VALVE BEFORE REMOVAL IS IMPORTANT!!

6. Reinstall the valve making sure that the tab is WITHIN the fork...putting a little oil on the seal of the SOV will help future leaks. Once installed, MAKE SURE that the stop lever is making TRUE contact with the valve by checking recoil and making sure that the valve makes vacuum when depressed. A GREAT way of checking it is by applying vacuum to the valve via MITY VAC or connecting a tube and sucking on the hose manually. If the lever goes down and up based on vacuum applied, thats a good sign!

7. Tighten the 10MM screws evenly ESPECIALLY if you have a plastic valve!

8. Reinstall the ALDA...putting it back is a little easier until it comes to tightening it...just be careful, theres a lotta wire and hoses...I snapped 3 vacuum hoses doing this...be gentle!

9. Reinstall the wire plug...if its hard to push back down...check the position of the sleeve!

10. Reinstall all tubes and wires...you may want to even check the valve once more!

11. BEFORE YOU TURN THE CAR ON...BE PREPARED FOR THE WORST...have a block of wood ready to block the intake in case of runaway...you can also block the fuel lines via some channel lock pliers or if youre REALLY daring, you can have a CO2 extinguisher ready to blow into the intake!

12. Start engine with fingers crossed (if youre a little worried) if it starts normally and runs for 30 seconds at idle, turn off...if it turns off WOOO HOOOO, you DID IT!!!


CONGRATS, I hope this helped!!!


Putty
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  #26  
Old 02-09-2008, 01:48 PM
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Smile

Hi Putty,

I have just officially joined the forum so that I could thank you for SOV info. I am having EXACTLY the same problem as you were with the shut off valve... the lever goes almost all the way down when ignition is switched off or the pipe is sucked (really hard!) but not quite far enough to kill the engine. I don't have a Mityvac as yet, but strongly suspect that, as in your case, the valve is the cuprit.

Your step by step guide on replacement (without the manifold removal) will be invaluable.

Thanks again,

Sophie
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  #27  
Old 02-09-2008, 10:36 PM
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Sophie, welcome to the Mercedesshop forum...this is the most valuable place on the internet to get information related to all areas of MERC diesels. That information that I got on the SOV was here! Use the forum to your advantage...these old cars werent too complicated to work on or even figure out! The germans may not have had the same ways of doing things as our domestics but they were still made to last. Again, welcome Sophie!
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  #28  
Old 06-18-2008, 09:36 PM
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Thanks for the details

Putty,

I've got the exact same problem and will probably also have to replace the SOV. However, if that is not the problem, I will be diving into the web of vacuum hoses for the first time. Any suggestions.

FYI... just got back from visiting Tennessee... Texas is nice but it "ain't" Tennessee.
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  #29  
Old 06-18-2008, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Paul View Post
Any suggestions.
Why guess at the problem? Use a Mityvac and isolate the leak to determine the culprit.

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