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  #1  
Old 02-03-2008, 12:25 AM
Jeremy5848's Avatar
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1996 W210/M606 Intake Cleaning and Glowplug Removal

I had wanted to clean the intake manifold on my wife's '96 E300D (and disable the EGR valve) for some time, so when she reported less-easy than usual starting, I checked and found a bad #1 glowplug. That was my excuse to take her car down for a day or so. The car has 251,496 miles and this is the original unrebuilt engine. All POs have taken good care of it and there have never been any serious problems. The intake manifold was last off at 224,960 (two years ago) when the 3rd owner (we are 4th) had some fuel lines and IP o-rings replaced due to fuel leaks. The indy mechanic may or may not have done any manifold cleaning at that time -- his invoice doesn't specifically mention it.

With the needed parts in hand, I started today after returning from the Pick and Pull half price day. Everything came off easily. I photographed as I went, so that I would have a guide when it came time to put things back together.

The crankcase breather seems to be leaking some oil under the dust cover. Since I've never worked in this part of a 606 engine before, I have to ask -- is this normal? (Photo #1)

I had read in other threads that the plastic tubes that divide the oil vapor among the twelve intake pipes was brittle plastic and liable to break. Somehow I thought the tubes were under the manifold and thus hard to get to. I was pleasantly surprised to find them up top and not at all in the way. Perhaps I misunderstood. (Photo #2)

The crossover tubes from the air cleaner and the intake manifold were full of soot from the EGR valve. The end of the manifold was badly crudded up with a mixture of crankcase oil and exhaust soot. Manifold #1 (cylinder #1) was one of the worst. (Photo #3)

The intakes in the head were also nasty. Intakes #11 and #12 (cylinder #6) were dry -- there was so much soot that the oil vapor holes had been blocked. The worst was #10 (cylinder #5) -- (Photo #4).

I plan to use gasoline and carb cleaner (outdoors) for cleaning the crossover and manifold. Gasoline worked well on the 603 engine in my '87 300D. I'll scrape off the hard stuff in the intakes to the cylinders and suck it out with the shop vac. It will be interesting to see if the engine runs better afterwards. All gaskets and o-rings will be replaced.

The EGR valve has a variable resistor built in -- about 1500 Ohms with the EGR valve closed and 900 with it open. This variable resistor reports to one of the computers and will set a code if it doesn't operate normally, meaning the old "BB in the vacuum line" won't work. There doesn't seem to be anything measuring the amount of gas flowing through the EGR valve however, so I plan to block off the EGR valve's exit port (where it attaches to the crossover pipe). That will allow the valve to do its thing while the intake remains free of soot. I'll use the EGR gasket as a template and cut out a thin aluminum blocking piece. I would prefer stainless steel but don't have any. Maybe later.

The cause of this whole exercise, the #1 glow plug, initially refused to come out. I sprayed PB Blaster onto it and let it sit for awhile. I didn't want to break it or strip the threads in the head. I'd never had to remove a glowplug before so I didn't know how hard I dared twist.

[Later] OK, the glowplug came out. I turned it carefully back and forth while the PB Blaster oozed into the threads. A Bosch, it was in surprisingly clean condition for a bad one (measured about 66 Ohms, should be less than 1 Ohm). I put some anti-sieze on the threads of the new (also Bosch) glowplug for "next time." Lastly, I checked all six glowplugs at the pre-glow relay and all six were good. I deliberately decided to not replace all six glowplugs. Some of you will feel that this is short-sighted. I'll let you know when the next one dies and I have to do this all over. Hopefully it will not be soon.

Tomorrow I'll clean the soot off of everything and put it back together. I'll report back on the EGR blocking gambit and whether the engine runs any better.

Jeremy
Attached Thumbnails
1996 W210/M606 Intake Cleaning and Glowplug Removal-oil.jpg   1996 W210/M606 Intake Cleaning and Glowplug Removal-breather.jpg   1996 W210/M606 Intake Cleaning and Glowplug Removal-manifold01.jpg   1996 W210/M606 Intake Cleaning and Glowplug Removal-intake10.jpg  
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
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  #2  
Old 02-03-2008, 08:31 AM
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I'll be curious to see the effect of the EGR block off plate. Someone else here came up with an electronic solution to the EGR thing as well.
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  #3  
Old 02-03-2008, 01:26 PM
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606 intake flap?

Is there also a vacuum controlled flap in the intake manifold just before the EGR which opens and closes depending on the open/close of the EGR valve?

If you just block off the EGR, and the computer tells it to open and the intake flap to close a bit, and nothing comes in from the EGR because it is blocked off, won't the engine be "air starved" and not run right?

Isn't that why someone modded the EGR by capping the hole in the exhaust manifold and adding a small filter on to the EGR tube so that it draws in fresh air when the computer tells it to open?
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  #4  
Old 02-03-2008, 01:31 PM
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Good question!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ds190 View Post
Is there also a vacuum controlled flap in the intake manifold just before the EGR which opens and closes depending on the open/close of the EGR valve?

If you just block off the EGR, and the computer tells it to open and the intake flap to close a bit, and nothing comes in from the EGR because it is blocked off, won't the engine be "air starved" and not run right?

Isn't that why someone modded the EGR by capping the hole in the exhaust manifold and adding a small filter on to the EGR tube so that it draws in fresh air when the computer tells it to open?
The flap to which you refer indeed closes most of the way, although it has a flat cut in it so there is always some airflow. Whether your combination of circumstances will indeed starve the engine I do not know. However, I did discover that the flex line to the EGR has an apparently-by-the-factory partial block-off in it (where it attaches to the EGR). The resulting orifice is only about the size of a dime so it won't pass much anyway. I'll try to post a photo tonight.

If my mod does cause problems I'll plumb a line from the EGR to the air cleaner box and let it breathe fresh air.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #5  
Old 02-03-2008, 01:58 PM
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The turbocharged 606 measures the air intake and notices if the EGR has no flow when open. The NA can't tell.

Any loss of exhaust gas in the intake will not starve the engine of air, as this gas won't combine with fuel. The only effect of shutting off the exhaust flow on the 606 is the same as on the old engines, which is increased emissions (and less soot in the intake). Of course, it's not legal to disable the EGR. Thus, if something falls between the EGR and one of its pipes on my car, I won't notice it so you won't read about it here.
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  #6  
Old 03-05-2011, 04:04 AM
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what are the plastic parts on the manifold called and where can i find them?

i removed my manifold to get to my glow plugs because my 96 w210 diesel wouldn't start and noticed the plastic parts were cracked, i don't know if that'll keep my engine from starting as this is the first time i worked on a diesel but i know i'd rather have them fixed and the way they were ment to be,
so if anyone where i can find them please let me know
and also if anyone knows of a how to on how to find the fuel pre filter please let me know too
thank you
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  #7  
Old 03-05-2011, 04:19 AM
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hey simms,
Welcome to the forum. Its hard to help you with your question if we dont know your location. Could you please put some details in your signature to help us help you.
If you are in the USA, the first point of call should be the buyparts link at the top of the page.

If you need to clean the manifold, some have suggested soaking over night in biodiesel.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
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  #8  
Old 03-05-2011, 10:20 AM
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I have found the best way to quickly and effectively clean the intake manifold is to take it to a do it yourself car wash bay, and use the high pressure nozzle to blast the stuff out. I usually aim it at the wall and then use the spray nozzle to clean the wall and floor when I am done. Much easier and faster than any other method I have tried.

Jim
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1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #9  
Old 03-05-2011, 12:09 PM
Disciple
 
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When I replaced the fuel liines on my 97 e300, I cleaned the crossover pipe and intake manifold with "Super Cleaner" from Castrol. It is in a purple bottle and did an awesome job. Label says it is a cleaner/degreaser and I would concur.
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  #10  
Old 03-05-2011, 01:54 PM
Jeremy5848's Avatar
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Parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by simms View Post
i removed my manifold to get to my glow plugs because my 96 w210 diesel wouldn't start and noticed the plastic parts were cracked, i don't know if that'll keep my engine from starting as this is the first time i worked on a diesel but i know i'd rather have them fixed and the way they were ment to be,
so if anyone where i can find them please let me know
and also if anyone knows of a how to on how to find the fuel pre filter please let me know too
thank you
You should get a subscription (free if you're in the USA) to EPC, the Mercedes electronic parts catalog. You can find the part numbers and a diagram for all of those nasty little hoses and tubes. Makes it a lot easier when buying replacement parts. http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/welcome.jsp

Use the search function in this forum to find pictures of the fuel pre-filter, which in your engine is located next to the spin-on secondary filter. Warning: new pre-filters DO NOT come with a new o-ring. Either save the o-ring from the old filter or buy a new one. If you plan to use biodiesel or a biodiesel blend, use a Viton o-ring.

Jeremy
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Last edited by Jeremy5848; 03-12-2011 at 11:16 AM.
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  #11  
Old 03-11-2011, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
hey simms,
Welcome to the forum. Its hard to help you with your question if we dont know your location. Could you please put some details in your signature to help us help you.
If you are in the USA, the first point of call should be the buyparts link at the top of the page.

If you need to clean the manifold, some have suggested soaking over night in biodiesel.
I tried biodiesel, it didn't work very well. Messy too.
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