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  #1  
Old 02-05-2008, 04:07 PM
otto huber's Avatar
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Oil filter stand gasket, what type of sealant if any at all?

I'm finally going to try tackling this job on my 240D. What sealant have any of you had success with? Is it necessary? Did you notice much difference in your dipstick level after the repair? I've always had two good size puddles coming from the back of the engine that I could trace back to that gasket. thanks

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  #2  
Old 02-05-2008, 04:19 PM
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Are you referring to the oil filter housing gasket?

If so, it gets no sealant. Cleanliness of the two surfaces is absolutely critical. Any slight residual material from the old gasket will cause a leak. You'll need the professional gasket remover and a touch with a stone to be sure.

The OE gasket is preferred.
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Old 02-05-2008, 04:31 PM
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definitely use permatex gasket remover. get EVERY TRACE of old gasket and residue off there. and then use acetone to remove any trace of the remover spray. also, if you have room, you may want to use a nice zip pad and polish anything that is left on there, the gasket will stick well on it's own.
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Old 02-05-2008, 04:38 PM
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(My opinion) In theory the gasket is supposed to seal all by itselfe but if it leaks it will have to come off again. Where there are 2 good machined surfaces and the gasket is a dry uncoated paper one I use Gasket Cinch. It is a thin yellow rubber glue type gasket cement.
When you are using gasket cement around oil passages you do not want any excess cement squeezing (as silicone selant might) into the oil passage. Since the Gasket Cinch is thin and dry pretty fast it is easy to apply without puttig too much excess on. I would degrease the oil filter stand (not the bolck, just make sure it is clean and wipe with a clean rag). Brush on the cement making sure none runs inside of the part and let it dry. I brush it on both sides of the papper and let it soak in and dry. I continue to apply coats and letting them dry until the papper seems like it will no longer soak up any more (I believe this helps keep the paper gasket from srinking later and the gasket will not absorb oil) and I let it dry. At this point the part is tacky and the gasket is tacky and you need too be careful when you align it as it shoud stick pretty well.
My second choice would be one of the Copper coat type gasket cements (however it is thicker and squishes out into oil passages if you are not careful).
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Old 02-05-2008, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
and the gasket is a dry uncoated paper one............
It's not..........if you purchase the OE gasket.

This would make the use of such gasket sealant unnecessary...........and quite risky.
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Old 02-05-2008, 07:29 PM
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Thanks guys, just picked up the gasket from a Mercedes dealer. Pretty thick, made of rubber.
Brian, what do you mean by professional gasket remover? Are you referring to something like the permatex remover John mentioned? I don't have a resurfacing stone of any kind, so I'll try a zip pad or steel wool.
Also, anything to watch out for when removing the oil cooler lines? I plan on pulling the oil pressure line out of the cabin rather than mess with the fitting on the filter stand, since I have read that it is rather delicate.
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Old 02-05-2008, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by otto huber View Post
Thanks guys, just picked up the gasket from a Mercedes dealer. Pretty thick, made of rubber.
Brian, what do you mean by professional gasket remover? Are you referring to something like the permatex remover John mentioned? I don't have a resurfacing stone of any kind, so I'll try a zip pad or steel wool.
Also, anything to watch out for when removing the oil cooler lines? I plan on pulling the oil pressure line out of the cabin rather than mess with the fitting on the filter stand, since I have read that it is rather delicate.
Exactly. The Permatex is fine.

A small stone costs next to nothing and it will hang up on any material left on the face. I strongly urge you to get one. You can use Scotchbrite to clean the face as well........but, you can't feel any irregularities with it.

I haven't had the pleasure of the oil line on the SD because it has an electric gauge. If the large nuts for the cooler lines give problems..........add a little heat to them before applying the torque. You'll find that you'll need a large wrench that is shorter than normal to get those nuts to turn. A typical 12" wrench won't work in there.
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Old 02-05-2008, 08:27 PM
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oil cooler line wrench

Make your self a flair nut wrench out of a 1 1/6 box wrench. mine is 8 in
long and works great. It`s a tight fit next to the IP, might have to grind
the side of the wrench down some.

Charlie
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Old 02-05-2008, 09:36 PM
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I just started cracking bolts loose tonight to make things easier tomorrow, and a standard box wrench fits down there on the oil cooler lines just fine. That's what's nice about the 240D; a lot more room to wrench. Of course the line didn't budge, so I'll go over to my neighbor's and borrow the torch and give it a little heat.
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  #10  
Old 02-06-2008, 05:44 PM
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I was able to turn the 1 1/16 compression fitting nut with some heat, but the metal tube twisted with it. Do I need to grind down a 15/16 wrench in order to get to the nut closer to the oil filter stand, or will the tube twist with that too?

Last edited by otto huber; 02-06-2008 at 08:52 PM.
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  #11  
Old 02-06-2008, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by otto huber View Post
I was able to turn the 1 1/16 compression fitting nut with some heat, but the mettle tube twisted with it. Do I need to grind down a 15/16 wrench in order to get to the nut closer to the oil filter stand, or will the tube twist with that too?
Grind down yes. 240 or now its still a PITA.

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