Better to find out a 1/2 mi. from home than 100 miles.

I've always wondered how far down the gauge I had to go to get the light to come on but never really tested it. I have run the gauge further down before than it was yesterday, at least visibly, or so I thought.

I was taking a little longer route home from work yesterday just to give it a chance to warm it up a little bit. I haven't driven the TD much this winter because I didn't want to subject it to any more road salt until I fixed the rust spots so I was doing a little cruising. I made the left turn towards the cove and it sputtered to a stop. I pop the hood and the fuel filter is dry. Son of a b!tch!

All I have to say is that integrated primer is sheer genius!

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1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15
'06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod)

Mine will go well past the R line when I'm nearly empty.

I think on the earlier W123s, the reserve light does not normally come on briefly at startup, so that could be your issue. I have also seen some tank senders that were so clogged with mung at the bottom where the reserve contacts are that I can't see how they would ever send a signal.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

That feature was added in the late 82 update. Anyone can add it to their car by swapping the temp/fuel/oil or temp/fuel/oil/economy cluster assembly with a later model.

I don't think it was your sender/gauge gone flaky - I think your head was filled with instant replays from Sunday and you inadvertantly ran dry....only continuing your downward spiral from perfection. I remember my car crapping out after the Iggles lost too

Seriously though - have you ever pulled your sending unit? Mine was disgusting. Just use a 1-13/16" socket (for mine, anyway) and carefully clean it with brake cleaner if you really think it's the problem.

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1981 240d - 135k - Arlene

That's what I was thinking. Not in my case, though.

It's good to know for future reference. I won't keep going down the highway waiting for the light to come on!

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1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15
'06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod)

Pffft.

Nope. I don't suspect that I will until I really need to, like if the gauge stops working. It wouldn't surprise me if it's a mess. It's more of an inconvenience at this point than a dire need, especially now that I know where that magical point is.

I tend to take the tact of if it ain't REALLY broke, ie no light and no gauge, don't fix it. I'd only to manage to screw something up more.

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1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15
'06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod)

The light is replaceable. If its not working it couldn't hurt to check and see if the bulb is simply burnt out.

That's actually a very good philosophy IMHO - I tend to create more problems too

I usually pay more attention to my trip meter than the fuel gauge anyway, I have that little faith in it - even after cleaning it.

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1981 240d - 135k - Arlene

I suppose I could do that without doing too much damage.

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1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15
'06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod)

If it is the sender and there's enough crap in there to cause this problem, it can't be doing your fuel/injection system any good.....

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Economy cluster? What's that?

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1983 Mercedes-Benz 240D
Automatic, A/C, Power Sunroof, Power Right Side Mirror
231K Miles FOR SALE MAKE OFFER

It has an economy gauge at the bottom. It measures vacuum but can be modified to measure boost.

The first is from a W126, the second is the one I put in my car.

Attached Thumbnails

   

Dang it, now you've got me thinking. I s'pose I really ought to check the bulb first.

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1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15
'06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod)

Wow, now that's clever. I'm going to get myself one of those.

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1983 Mercedes-Benz 240D
Automatic, A/C, Power Sunroof, Power Right Side Mirror
231K Miles FOR SALE MAKE OFFER