Here's the bolt and washers you'll need (parts # 62 & 65). You'll need 2 washers (seal ring) and the bolt that is listed right above it (p/n A 617 990 00 63). Remember this is a hollow bolt, so don't overtighten it, or it'll break off! There should be a MB dealer in KC. Hopefully it's one that has the parts in stock or can call around to see who's got them. They might have the oil filter & o ring too. That way you get parts that fit instead of aftermarket mystery parts.

Attached Files

bolt and washer.pdf (24.8 KB, 215 views)

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82 300SD 202K
82 300SD 233K
83 300TD 340K
82 300TD 98k euro (parts on the hoof)
85 300TD 282K
83 300TD 197K

As has been noted, the oil filter housing should be solidly filled with oil. There is no opportunity for a normally operating oil system to make any noise, at all. So, what does your oil pressure gage do when the car starts? After it runs for a while? Adding a gallon of oil is not the end of the world for one of these cars if it had oil pressure before you added the gallon.

The job at hand is finding the oil leak. If it is running out of the top of the canister, there is either no o-ring or a pinched o-ring. Go get a new filter - they come with new o-rings - and replace the filter. I usually do this by removing the two nuts holding the lid down, and then lifting the lid with my hand in a plastic bag, slowly, and pushing the bag down over the filter and cap as I withdraw it. Keeps the mess to a minimum. Take the old filter off, clean the cap thoroughly and pay particular attention to the o-ring sealing surfaces and the o-rings on the stem. These o-rings do not come in the new filter box, and are therefore rarely changed. Check to see if they are more like black plastic than a rubber material that is round in cross section. If that is the case, make sure you put buying new ones on your list of things to do when you get home, and change them next time. Put the new filter in the hole, buy some synthetic grease when you get the filter and lube up the o-ring with this stuff, put the o-ring in the groove, and carefully fit the stem into the filter, and close the cap onto the filter housing. Be careful to ensure it goes on straight and square before putting on the nuts and tightening them down.

If the problem is between the filter housing and the block, the issue is the gasket there. That is a bigger job, and I would see if tightening the fasteners holding the housing to the block stops or at least slows down the leakage rate. After that it could be the hoses. Another tightening exercise if it is at the filter housing, but the hex size is really large, so I used a Crescent wrench. At the other end, it is likely a job for a shop as access is not good.

A hose failure is possible to fix temporarily at a shop with a coupling. Not a reliable long term fix, but it works for the short term.

Good luck, Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

It was good when I left Orlando, at middle of level dipstick.
At Paducah, I didn't check (my bad) as I was really concerned that
the car wouldn't start due to the very cold.

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Ginny in Denver-ish
78 300SD, 265K (mine)

How much farther do you have to go, Ginny?

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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

Guys, if Ginny can't find a banjo bolt, could she just place a normal bolt in the manifold to stop the swishing sound until she arrives home safely?

Good luck gal!

John

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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI

8 hours. About 650 miles or so.

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Ginny in Denver-ish
78 300SD, 265K (mine)

Oil pressure gauge never left 3 while driving and drops to 2 while idling.
Same as in my 300SD.

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Ginny in Denver-ish
78 300SD, 265K (mine)

So, 4 quarts in about 1500 miles or so. Not good, but not real bad either, definitly not a gusher. You'll make it as long as the leak doesn't seem to be getting worse. No doubt the seller cleaned the bottom of the car for you . The biggest concern is something letting go under pressure and dumping all your oil. Keep your eyes on the oil pressure guage.

that's good news about the oil pressure. Its nice having 8 quarts to play with.

I don't think you are going to find a bolt with that thread easily for the intake. Duct tape it and see if that changes the noise.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

How many miles did you go since you last checked the oil? If you can go 100 miles or so before it needs oil you can just keep adding, just don't run out!! Watch the oil pressure gauge constantly. Oil is cheaper than on the road repairs, but a blown engine would not be a fun way to end this trip. That's a call you'd have to make based on how bad the leak/consumption is. If PO filled it with a non diesel spec oil, that would account for the high consumption.

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82 300SD 202K
82 300SD 233K
83 300TD 340K
82 300TD 98k euro (parts on the hoof)
85 300TD 282K
83 300TD 197K

As far as the banjo bolt for that line you showed you could plug the hole in the intake manifold with a regular bolt so you will have turbo but be carful not to over boost although I would guess you won't as most of these cars need to have the boost adjusted up. Run you hand around the oil filter housing right under the lid to see if you find a lot of oil, if not then at the base of the oil filter are the two hoses to the cooler and you might check if it is leaking here and be able to tighten the fittings but be carful not to brake anything. If you still can't find the leak/leaks go to a car was and maybe you could clean the area so you can get a better look.(be carful not to spray a hot IP or you could damage it)

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1983 300SD
200000miles

Ohhh, good idea. I'll try that and report back.

Oil. What is the right one? I had Rotella T that the guy at the autoparts store gave me. I told him it was a diesel. I'll need to pick up more.
As I think about it, it should be Rotella D, right?
I checked oil in Valdosta GA, Tuesday morning. At the lower middle but I'd only driven 3 hours.

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Ginny in Denver-ish
78 300SD, 265K (mine)

Rotella T is fine.

Any diesel rated oil for now- even the cheap stuff for now as long as you are bleeding it.

Let's not turn this into an oil thread....

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Look underneath the injection pump where it mounts to the engine (it will be directly 'behind' the vacuum pump). I had a catastrophic oil leak there, and it only happened while at interstate speeds. It leaked 1qt/100 miles. The leak happened suddenly, and I found out when I lost oil pressure at 85mph. 15k miles later I've got a bad rod knock. Once I found out I had the leak I stopped every 100 miles or so and added oil. I was ~halfway (Oklahoma) on a trip to Phoenix, AZ from Starkville,MS and made the rest of the trip and back by adding lots of oil. Think I went through 6 gallons. When I got back my oil was gray instead of black!!

I would go to an auto parts store and get some stop leak for oil. If it is a good stop leak it will contain lots of 'esters' which make rubber seals swell. That allowed me to make the rest of the trip... over a period of 500 miles I was able to slowly increase my speed from 50mph (about where the leak started spewing oil) to 70mph without a significant increase in oil leakage.

If you absolutely must get home quickly buy a couple gallons of the cheapest oil you can find, and just stop every 100 miles and add oil. Also, it would be a good idea to slow down.


In regards to the other post about just putting a bolt in the intake manifold.... that is a fantastic idea! Most auto part stores will let you walk in & out to try different bolt sizes till you find the one that will fit. I think that bolt will have a standard metric thread, etc. It won't be able to connect to that boost line, but it will stop the noise and air leak.


Best of luck!! You'll get home with it eventually!

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John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 240k
'87 300TD - 318k

If you clog that hole, the ALDA will not know that there is boost present, and as a result it won't add any extra fuel. There is no worry about overboosting... The overboost protection circuit just vents the ALDA line to atmosphere anyway (which is what is happening on her car now).

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John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 240k
'87 300TD - 318k