300SD Wiggle - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

TheDon · #16 02-12-2008, 08:31 PM

rear bearings require the special tool.

the fronts are easy...

all you need is

new bearings and races, a good steel punch or chisel, a 3 lb mini sledge.. and new grease to pack the bearings

SD Blue · #17 02-12-2008, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueTank

This is not a "shimmy" and the steering wheel does not shake. "Wiggle" is the only way I can describe it. The car feels like it is making small side-to-side movements as it is going around the curve. It is not a vibration and the side to side movement is a fairly slow frequency - maybe 2-3 cycles per second?Does that help?

I would lay odds on rear control arm bushings. When I changed mine, they were virtually impossible to see how bad they were until I pulled the bolt and dropped them. The rubber was nearly non-existent on one. You will need the MB spring compressor, available in the tool rental, and I used 5/16 all-thread with nuts and a stack of washers and 3/4 dr. sockets for a bushing press. And unless you are a young man, Epsom salts for the tub afterwards.

TheDon · #18 02-12-2008, 09:52 PM

lower control arm... or rear? I have never heard of a rear? unless you mean the rear trailing arm..

you do not need a spring compressor to remove those either.. just drop the rear subframe

winmutt · #19 02-12-2008, 10:44 PM

What was your tire pressure? High speeds and low pressure will certainly wiggle. The fuel flap on 123 specifies +3psi for +100kmph. I always run mine at ~40psi but they aren't stock either.

toomany MBZ · #20 02-13-2008, 06:05 AM

Sway bar links?

SD Blue · #21 02-13-2008, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

lower control arm... or rear? I have never heard of a rear? unless you mean the rear trailing arm..

you do not need a spring compressor to remove those either.. just drop the rear subframe

I meant rear trailing arm. About the spring compressor, I have tried both with and without and believe me, unless you have a lot of height such as a lift to work with, the spring compressor is considerably easier when it comes to reassembly.

TheDon · #22 02-13-2008, 11:14 AM

totally.. I helped my friend drop the rear suspension on a 420SEL.. that was fun getting back up...

in a pinch it works

BOG · #23 02-17-2008, 05:29 PM

Ply separation(s) been there, done it. Look for bulges on tire treads.

BlueTank · #24 02-18-2008, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SirNik84

that is exactly what my car felt like.

without seeing the car, i'd say its the wheel bearing.

put the cars A$$ in the air and shake the tires. up-down and side to side. i bet one moves.

you can pull that tire off and the pull the break caliper and remove the disc. you'll see metal in the parking breaks... the signs of the failure is hiding behind the parking breaks.

when i get home i can get my camera and post the pics of my exploded wheel bearing if you'd like to see them.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone! I checked the rear wheels and the left wheel has some play in it. The right wheel - I can hear it move but can't really feel it so I'll save that for nicer weather. While I don't like the thought of having to do work in the winter, it is nice knowing what the problem is and that I'm not going crazy. That "wiggle" was the weirdest feeling.

I'm in the process of ordering tools and parts - and should be able to fix it this coming weekend. For those that are curious I'll also post tools/prices once I have completed the job.

Richard

BlueTank · #25 03-03-2008, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueTank

Thanks for the suggestions everyone! I checked the rear wheels and the left wheel has some play in it. The right wheel - I can hear it move but can't really feel it so I'll save that for nicer weather. While I don't like the thought of having to do work in the winter, it is nice knowing what the problem is and that I'm not going crazy. That "wiggle" was the weirdest feeling.

I'm in the process of ordering tools and parts - and should be able to fix it this coming weekend. For those that are curious I'll also post tools/prices once I have completed the job.

Richard

Well - I had to wait for the special socket before fixing the left wheel bearing. A special thanks to DMorrison for his DIY - it was a lot easier following his instruction than the FSM.

The fix took me about 5 hours. The hardest part for me was getting the hub out - I don't have a slide hammer and I will be sure to get one before doing the other side. With the new hammer and understanding how it is done I think I can do it in 3 hours. Oh - the grease in the hub had basically dried out but there were no metal shavings and the bearings had spun on the hub. No damage to the hub and it did make the bearings come off easily.

Bearing Kit Rusty $63.50 Bearings were SKF made in Germay

"Groove Nut" Socket ZDMAK $58.95 There was one on EBay but just my luck - not there when I wanted it.

Dial Indicator and Base Summit Racing $29.95 They have a warehouse in Ohio so I get stuff overnight. They do have a $10.99 handling charge and since I'm in Ohio I pay sales tax - but I wanted it quick.

Redling Grease Summit Racing $9.95

Also bought a remote stater switch to make my valve adjustments go quicker!

Again thanks for the help!

Richard