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  #16  
Old 02-15-2008, 02:42 PM
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I have given this topic some thought for my vehicle. My plan is remove an AGM battery from one of those cheap yellow portable jump-start device. The battery is small enough to mount in the engine compartment close to the battery without the need for a lot of expensive cable.

The AGM battery has better cycle, temperature, and discharge characteristics than standard flooded batteries and a small one will provide that needed extra 'oomph' to my starter on those really cold mornings for $50
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  #17  
Old 02-15-2008, 02:54 PM
C Sean Watts's Avatar
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I've been reading this post a few minutes.

My college major wasn't electrical engineering BUT I used to work for a retired EE in an avionics shop.

Anyone interested in this idea have a look at:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2006119/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2006119/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=battery+isolator

Or anything of the like BUT

DO NOT connect two batteries in your car without some kind of isolator/interrupter circuit. You might cause severe electrical damage, fire, explosion or all of the above.
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  #18  
Old 02-15-2008, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jap View Post
I've thought about keeping a second battery in the trunk and then if i need it, then i can pull it out, take it to the front, quickly wire it up and when I'm done just put it back in the truck to recharge at home later. They are heavy though, your daughter many not be able to do this.
If you're going to do something like that, you might as well just pick up one of those battery boost packs. inexpensive and much more convenient with the alligator clips already part of it. That is what I have for those situations, although if the vehicle battery is already weak, sometimes it's not enough for a diesel.
Adding a second battery would be the most reliable and least amount of starting hassle.
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  #19  
Old 02-15-2008, 03:38 PM
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I thought the isolator was to keep things like the RV stuff from draining the start battery. Putting in a 2nd battery to start would you need an isolator? I was woundering how big of a battery you could mount down by the headlight?
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  #20  
Old 02-15-2008, 03:40 PM
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^^You beat me to the post : )

Quote:
Originally Posted by C Sean Watts View Post
My college major wasn't electrical engineering BUT I used to work for a retired EE in an avionics shop.
I'm no EE either but my understanding is that you only need an isolator when you have one two or more batteries used for different purposes running off one charging system. Boats often use these setups where they have a flooded lead acid battery to start and a deep cycle gel battery to run equipment on instead of idling (marina fuel is really expensive).
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Last edited by wyrick; 02-15-2008 at 03:46 PM.
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  #21  
Old 02-15-2008, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyrick View Post
I have given this topic some thought for my vehicle. My plan is remove an AGM battery from one of those cheap yellow portable jump-start device. The battery is small enough to mount in the engine compartment close to the battery without the need for a lot of expensive cable.

The AGM battery has better cycle, temperature, and discharge characteristics than standard flooded batteries and a small one will provide that needed extra 'oomph' to my starter on those really cold mornings for $50
What is the AGM battery?

Concerning connecting two batteries, I thought I read somewhere that they should have the same specifications.

Ok, I just spoke with a technical guy at batteries.com. He said it is important to have batteries with similar specifications, especially amps.

John
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Last edited by hangit; 02-15-2008 at 05:47 PM.
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  #22  
Old 02-15-2008, 05:40 PM
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Just use synthetic oil
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  #23  
Old 02-15-2008, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
Just use synthetic oil

I'm running 5-40w semi-synthetic now.

John
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  #24  
Old 02-15-2008, 05:52 PM
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I started our 300D at -5F a while ago with only a 10 second glow and about 1-2 seconds of cranking. (It only rotated like 3 times) and it was running. Thats with a generic 100A battery of unknown age in it. Brand new glowplugs/relay though as of 3 months ago. It also has a new starter as of last September....


My car on the other hand....needs a 20 second glow and about 6-7 seconds of cranking to fire up at that temp....but it always does....I think most of the delay is the old/slow/weakened starter I've got.
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  #25  
Old 02-15-2008, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
I started our 300D at -5F a while ago with only a 10 second glow and about 1-2 seconds of cranking. (It only rotated like 3 times) and it was running. Thats with a generic 100A battery of unknown age in it. Brand new glowplugs/relay though as of 3 months ago. It also has a new starter as of last September....


My car on the other hand....needs a 20 second glow and about 6-7 seconds of cranking to fire up at that temp....but it always does....I think most of the delay is the old/slow/weakened starter I've got.
I'm jealous. Last week I put in the updated Bosch Glow plug relay and plugs after reaming the ports. They are getting voltage. It still had to crank over 40 seconds before starting. Black exhaust specks on the snow.

John
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  #26  
Old 02-15-2008, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hangit View Post
I'm jealous. Last week I put in the updated Bosch Glow plug relay and plugs after reaming the ports. They are getting voltage. It still had to crank over 40 seconds before starting. Black exhaust specks on the snow.

John
If its really cold crank without touching the throttle until it begins firing, then give it some throttle to get it going. Thats the best way to start 617's when its super cold. If you press the throttle while cranking it will put too much fuel in the cylinders and cool them off while its trying to build heat....negating the process.
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'17 Metris(VITO!) - 6k - wifes (OC-10k)
'01 E320 Wagon - 159k - mine (OC-160,000)
'89 420SEL 166k - mine (OC-167,000)
'01 E320 - 168k - dad's (OC-171,500)
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  #27  
Old 02-15-2008, 06:35 PM
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What I'd like is a diesel-fired block heater with a timer.
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  #28  
Old 02-15-2008, 07:57 PM
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AGM Batteries per Google's "I'm feeling lucky" gives a decent rundown. In a nutshell it is a sealed very durable fast charge/discharge battery.

My only concern is that given an AGM batteries low internal resistance, you might run into the problem where the all of your starting current comes from the AGM instead of your lead acid battery. This would lead to much shorter lifetime if it didn't have the capacity.

Quote:
Originally Posted by herring View Post
What I'd like is a diesel-fired block heater with a timer.
Espar makes them. I can get you a Hydronic 4 with 7 day timer for about $1200 right now.
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  #29  
Old 02-15-2008, 08:44 PM
C Sean Watts's Avatar
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The key here is

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyrick View Post
^^You beat me to the post : )



I'm no EE either but my understanding is that you only need an isolator when you have one two or more batteries used for different purposes running off one charging system. Boats often use these setups where they have a flooded lead acid battery to start and a deep cycle gel battery to run equipment on instead of idling (marina fuel is really expensive).

Isolator AND interrupter circuit and "the like." By no means am I endorsing a specific brand of equipment. BUT I'll just say this... I did see with my own eyes, a $280,000 airplane go up in flames after an electrical fire. The saving grace of Aerofabco (my friends company) was the A&P mechanic 'knew better' and signed, in writing, that he superseded the EE's design. BTW the EE's design was FAA approved.

The moral of the story, DON'T "hook in, piggy back, rig up, add on," etc. extra batteries without some such protection.
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  #30  
Old 02-15-2008, 08:48 PM
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Check out

Quote:
Originally Posted by herring View Post
What I'd like is a diesel-fired block heater with a timer.
www.ebay.de and in the search line type in "Webasto".

OR have a look at this

http://cgi.ebay.de/Standheizung-Webasto-Zeitschaltuhr-12-Volt_W0QQitemZ250214511569QQihZ015QQcategoryZ61524QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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