The curse continues, finding bad connection
 

Okay well i finally finished tying everything up and went to start my 1984 300D and nothing happened. No lights, no lights on the dash or anything.

I'm guessing it's a bad connection, or bad ignition switch. I know that i need to use a voltometer to find the problem but dont know how. What setting do i set it on? Where do i test?

This is what i've worked on:

1. Replaced starter
2. Replaced starter cables
3. Replaced Voltage Regulator (fixed missing alternator bolt)
4. Replaced Belts
5. Flushed Radiator
6. New Battery
7. New Upgraded Headlights

Other problems On The List:
1. Oil Leak
2. Sun Roof motor and cable need to replaced

I would check the battery first. Put your voltmeter on DC volts in the range to measure 12V. Your battery should have a 12.47V charge. Let us know what you find out.

John

AutoZone tested
 

The battery tested at 12. something, good battery.

If you do not wish to purchase a meter you can get by with a 12volt test light. Put your headlights on and put one leg of your test light on one side of a connection and the other leg on the other. Even simpler is to ground one leg of the test light and go along the wiring until the 12 v is lost.
You can either buy a test light or solder two leads to an old tailight bulb. Also possible to leave it in a spare socket and extend the leads.

The head lights,tail lights and emergency flashers will/should work independently from the ingition switch.
Were the lights working before the upgrade?

A electrical testing multimeter dose not cost much more than a 12 volt test light from Harbor Freight. This site has a "how to do it" on the use of the multimeter.
http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/Index/MiscRef.html#anchor4530729

There is a ground strap on these cars, a bare braided wire near the down exhaust pipe. Check to see if that is doing it's job.

I have a voltometer,
 

What setting do i set it on?

The headlights didnt work before i replaced. I assume since the alternator was putting out 17+- at idle that they burned out. But then one of the actual lights was busted.

I'm working on homework now (i love graphic design,i'm online and paid for it) but when i go down i'll check the other lights.

Okay Update
 

Well the headlights, flashers, and everything else doesnt work!

Should I replace the battery even though it tested good?
How do i test if the grounding strap is doing its job?
Which is best for finding the fault light or multimeter?

bump

The only dumb questions are the ones we didn't ask...so here goes...

1. Did you hook the battery terminals back up?

2. Did you CLEAN your brand new battery cables BEFORE you put them back on the battery? I have seen brand new cables with oxidation so thick the battery could not move any currant to the starter. Shine those connections up....posts, terminals, grounds.

I have also had 2 bad brand new batteries (and they will drive you nuts, because, it just can't be the battery.....it can too!)

If you've got a meter, there is a way to measure resistance in ohms. Select this capability and put one probe on the battery negative and one probe against the body on the inside of the hood. You should have continuity. If not, then your ground strap fell off the body somehow.

On my volt meter I set it at 20 DCV. Meaning that it will measure up to 20 volts DC. But mine has a single dial that you turn. Look where the black square on the dial is set.
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...sel911/ZD6.jpg

However not all meters function the same. I have one that has a lot of buttons that you have to push in the right combinations to get the results you want. Thats why I use this Cheap ($2.50 at harbor freight one; now they are around $3 when on sale) and easier to use one. Are you able to post a picture of your meter; someone here will be able to tell you what setting you use.

Unclemark- I am thinking that you might want to ask if there are any members that live near you and are willing to help you out.

same meter but in red
 

Okay thanks for the tips, we are supposed to have freezing rain all day tomorrow but i have to get this car started so that i can return the "parts truck" to my dad who wrecked his truck earlier this week.

Diesel 911
I have the same exact multimeter but in red, so i set it to the 20v and then what or i guess where should i start looking? I really appreciate all the help that I've received on here, at the next gtg yall have that i can make it to a round of beers are definitely on me. I haven't met anyone in person but theres another guy from Norman on here (sailor15015) talked to him on here before don't know about any others.

Mismost
When you say attach the terminals im guessing you mean the top post connections and then the positive cable to the starter and then the negative to the body of the car?
Ill clean the connections again.
Would a faulty battery read Good?

Brian
which setting would be ohms?


On my way home at the petro station this brand new land rover pulling the nicest single car trailer I've ever seen, on which was a hot rodded viper from Colorado pulled up to the pump next to me, his wife started pumping and he was poking all over the trailer, asked if i knew anything about trailer brakes said that i didn't, helped him check his wiring, and for leaks, came across a tiny lil battery box, opened it and theres a lil lawnmower battery in there, i say "hey i got a multimeter in my truck just a min" take it out of its package check the battery and it was dead, told the guy how to get to walmart. Felt good now if only i can find the problem with my electrical mess.