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  #16  
Old 02-15-2008, 12:24 PM
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The other posters have covered most of the bases. The only other thing that might cause the grinding would be a mis-alignment of the engine and transmission shaft. If miss aligned, the shaft will still turn even with the clutch engaged, and not allow the gears in the tranny to fully stop when making your shifts. Good luck with your problem...

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  #17  
Old 02-15-2008, 01:29 PM
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What is that you show being drained out? Did it have a strong smell like the gear oil used in your differential? If so that is bad news for your transmission. I understand gear oil should never be used in a MB manual transmission. Do you think it was 10w30 motor oil?

I think you put the right fluid back in the transmission, but if it had gear oil in there before, your synchro's are corroded away.

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  #18  
Old 02-15-2008, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pimpernell View Post
The other posters have covered most of the bases. The only other thing that might cause the grinding would be a mis-alignment of the engine and transmission shaft. If miss aligned, the shaft will still turn even with the clutch engaged, and not allow the gears in the tranny to fully stop when making your shifts. Good luck with your problem...

What would I need to do to verify this??
And, can you believe the idiot thing didn't grind a single time today, and I drove her quite a bit......
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'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
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'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
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  #19  
Old 02-15-2008, 09:03 PM
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If you have the correct lube in it and you can drive it without grinding by adjusting your shifting patterns, I would personally leave it be.

When I started driving the cars had no synchomesh and you had to adapt to it. It really isn't that hard....and a lot cheaper than a tear down.

Tom W
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  #20  
Old 02-20-2008, 01:05 AM
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Something I think I determined today.
The tranny only seems to grind going into 3rd when the rpm's are up.
It first started by grinding on the first shift into 3rd of the morning. Well, it was cold and I would have the idle knob turned up all the way until I hit the first stop sign. Also I noticed that it seems to grind when I am shifting into 3rd after winding it out in 2nd. If I don't let the rpms drop for a half second I sometimes get a grind. If I shift at lower rpms, or wind it out but delay the shift for about a half second after I push in the clutch {allowing rpms to drop} then I never get a grind.
So, if only on a higher rpm shift, does this point clutch-ward?
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2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #21  
Old 02-20-2008, 01:39 AM
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It sounds like the synchros are kind of worn out rather than a clutch problem if you have to wait a couple seconds before each shift.

Old cars with stick shifts tend to be very touchy about the way they're shifted.
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  #22  
Old 02-20-2008, 03:00 AM
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Thumbs up

Jimmy, come pick up my 240D.
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  #23  
Old 02-20-2008, 09:02 AM
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I would agree. Only at higher rpms points to a synchro..
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  #24  
Old 02-20-2008, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
Something I think I determined today.
The tranny only seems to grind going into 3rd when the rpm's are up.
It first started by grinding on the first shift into 3rd of the morning. Well, it was cold and I would have the idle knob turned up all the way until I hit the first stop sign. Also I noticed that it seems to grind when I am shifting into 3rd after winding it out in 2nd. If I don't let the rpms drop for a half second I sometimes get a grind. If I shift at lower rpms, or wind it out but delay the shift for about a half second after I push in the clutch {allowing rpms to drop} then I never get a grind.
So, if only on a higher rpm shift, does this point clutch-ward?
That's almost surely the syncro. When you're at high rpm's, the syncro must "work harder" to bring the gear train down to the speed necessary to engage third............and it grinds if you attempt it quickly. If you wait for gear train to slow down on it's own (a second or so)..........the syncro doesn't need to do the work to slow the gears and it doesn't grind.

If the clutch was the issue, that one second delay wouldn't help......it would still grind going into third.
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  #25  
Old 02-20-2008, 09:30 AM
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Not necessarily.

Properly timed shifts can be made clutchless without grinding.

Tom W
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #26  
Old 02-20-2008, 09:38 AM
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I am thinking it is likely to be worn synchros, too , from the latest description. If it were me, before I did anything drastic, I would bleed the clutch anyway. It only costs your time and might be that a bit of air removed from the system might provide a bit more clutch travel. You are using MTL, right?
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  #27  
Old 02-20-2008, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs899 View Post
I am thinking it is likely to be worn synchros, too , from the latest description. If it were me, before I did anything drastic, I would bleed the clutch anyway. It only costs your time and might be that a bit of air removed from the system might provide a bit more clutch travel. You are using MTL, right?
Yes it has Redline MTL. I am still going to bleed the clutch, just waiting to get the other 240D going before I try it. Just in case something happens.
I won't be doing anything drastic either way for quite a while, if ever........
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2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #28  
Old 02-20-2008, 10:35 AM
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If you can shift into reverse and first while stopped and idling you can probably rule out a clutch problem. Still, false economy to use an old release bearing.

I have heard good things about mtl but never tried it myself. The issue with various lubes as I understood when I read nearly every thread on this board back in 2004 or so when I had similar issues was that the synchros need friction to work. Many lubes are too slippery for our trannies. I bought cheapo type A ATF and had good results. But, like was already mentioned, I can drive an unsynchronized tranny so any synchro is a luxury to me. Learn to time your shifts.

A kind member from your neck of the woods once posted an online version of the repair manual for your tranny. If you decide to dig into it you can probably find a copy somewhere.

It's not very cold or windy today, am I in the right place?
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  #29  
Old 02-20-2008, 11:58 AM
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I think it is best to use what it was designed for too.

tom W
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #30  
Old 02-20-2008, 12:15 PM
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Mine was grinding too...
Check this thread:
240D manual transmission synchros (pics)

Good luck!
HDen

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