Bottom IP seal...
 

Anyone change it while its on the engine? I searched and it seems it may be possible, first GSXR says its impossible, then he says it is possible.:D

Is it? And if so any special tools that make it simpler? Looks like its going to be very tight, but I think I can get it off.

I really, really, really don't want to have to yank the IP now. The leak went from just enough to make the joint dirty, to running down the side of the block and pulling on the engine mount. So it needs to be fixed.

603, right?
 

It can be done...uh, BUT...

You should have the front up on jack stands. Roll under with a creeper and all the extensions you have and a few ratchet U joints, along with a light. Mine has small torx screws. Plan on a half day.

Yeah that is what I was thinking. I'll wait until April, let it warm up a bit.

and a facefull of very black diesel fuel. :D

Yeah kinda figured it was going to be a misserable job!:D

This may help some.
http://mbca.cartama.net/showthread.php?t=24554

I attempted this on my 602 and finally gave up. It was just too hard to get access to all 4 bolts for the bottom cover. I could get two loosened, but not the other two. I gave up, pulled the whole IP, and re-sealed it on the bench (replaced ALL seals, not just the lower cover O-ring).

The 603 may have a tad more room, but not much. Apparently Max was able to do it on a 603. For the shutoff lever seal, use the smaller of the two fuel filter bolt O-rings. It's the perfect size. There's a thread about that somewhere on the forum. I would still pull the IP out if possible, I had to scrape the back side of the governor to remove the old gasket, and this would have been a serious PITA on the car...!

:batman:

How much more work is it to yank the IP? If my memory serves me their are some special tools involved.

Yeah, there is. A pump shaft locking tool. I just got one for my rebuild -- you may borrow it when I'm finished it.

I have my entire motor in pieces right now, so I'm approaching re-install from a different perspective, but from what I remember reading the FSM -- set the crank to 15 deg. atdc or something such; lock down the pump; remove; reseal; replace. Just make sure the crank doesn't turn whilst pump is away and you should be good.

Oh yeah, that IP shaft bolt attaching it to the timer is left hand thread. I remembered that right after I snapped off the bolt head!!

'Course, I may be wrong about the exact procedure, but worry not, someone will chime in soon to make corrections!:D

At some point when I get serious about it I will check the FSM. The pump doesn't look crazy hard to get off, it would probably be faster in the long run to just yank it.

Would it help to remove the AC compressor? There are 4 bolts, the belt and some wires holding it to the block. IIRC, there's quite a bit of slack in the hoses.

Sixto
87 300D

Good idea, Sixto, loosening the AC compressor *might* provide a little more wiggle room.

To pull the IP, basically you just remove the vac pump, install the timing basket (if not present... the basket may be there on 1986/87 engines, not likely on 1990-up), set crank to 14° ATDC, remove pump. To install, turn the pump shaft slightly until the tang is centered in the hole in the side of the pump, insert lock tool to lock the pump, and re-insert with the crank still at 14°. You may need to move the turnbuckle thingy a little up or down, since the position may be slightly different than before, to allow the pump to seat against the block.


Two very important things to remember:

1) When installing the pump, it must seat up against the block without using the bolts to pull it into place!!! It MUST seat by hand pressure. If you are using the bolts, something isn't aligned, and you're likely to break off one of the mounting ears.

2) After the pump is seated in the block and bolts are finger-tight to hold it in place... do NOT rotate the pump, or engine, or turnbuckle... with the lock tool installed! This will break the tang off on the back of the camshaft, inside the pump. When it's in place, tighten everything down, REMOVED THE LOCK, then rotate the engine 2 revs back to 14° and double-check that the lock will still engage. If not, loosen it up, adjust slightly with the turnbuckle until the lock engages. Repeat as necessary. It's a lot easier with the "A-B light box" but that costs 10x more than the lock tool.

:stuart:

http://www.w124performance.com/image..._lock_tool.jpg

http://www.w124performance.com/image...__RIV_tool.jpg