'82 300TDT - Replacing SLS Accumulators
 

Is there anything special to it? My wagon is quite bouncy. Parts are in hand. I can't find any instruction on the replacement anywhere, so I imagine it's too simple to describe... Any gotchas?

Andrew

It pretty easy. Have a catch pan ready and some more SLS fluid, the MB or Febi stuff, not regular hydraulic fluid. Loosen and remove the fluid lines before you pull off the accumulator. Pull the old accumulator off, and put on the new one. Thread the fluid lines in by hand so you don't cross thread them. Once everything is all re-installed. Start the car and load the rear end and see if it lifts like it's supposed to, and make sure to keep and eye on the fluid reservior. I didn't have to add much when I changed mine.

Don't be in a position to be crushed when the pressure comes off the system and the rear of the car drops.

Place the jack stands on the body, not the trailing arms, when you change the accumulators.

Yep, what Andrew said. You want to use a good box end wrench so you don't strip the fittings on the outside, and as stated, hand thread the fittings on the new accumulators so you don't strip the inner threads.
You will not lose much fluid at all.
One thing to note: I have replaced accumulators on 2 different wagons. Not long after I replaced them, the high pressure hydraulic line under the hood from the SLS pump blew out, necessitating it's rebuild. ($65 bucks at a hydraulic hose place}
It is straight forward and easy.
One word of Warning: Have the wagon up on ramps, or have the car on jack stands. When you open up the hydraulics the rear of the wagon will drop like a rock!!!

I've got a thread on rebuilding the high pressure hose. It's a simply DIY. All you need is a new length of hose. You can unscrew and reuse the fittings.

you need a 12mm and i think a 11mm flare end wrench to undo the hydraulic lines without stripping. and i would thread the lines back into the new spheres before tightening them to the body. ramps = good = not crushed

The factory service CD contains procedure 32-620 "Removal and Installation of Pressure Reservoir."

Available from dealer or at 800.for.merc

Right, thanks. I have the CD, but was looking for accumulators not "Pressure Reservoirs". Thanks for the clarification.

To alleviate any concern, it will be on jack stands. Thanks for all the tips.

Andrew

I really like the visegrip locking wrench for getting stuck brake, hydraulic lines loose.

I recently (120 miles ago) replace the accumulators on my '82 300TDT to smoothen out the bouncy ride, but it does not seem to have worked. The first ride was a little smoother, but then it went back to being bouncy (less than 5 miles). Also, the rear end of the car now sits up higher than it previously did, maybe 1.5 to 2.5 inches, enough so that the rear view mirror had to be adjusted.

Any insight into fixing the ride quality?

Always make sure the valve lever the the sway bar is adjusted correctly.


ALSO you CAN use hydraulic jack fluid safely.

I dont care what anyone says i have the factory paper manual and no SPECIAL hydraulic fluid is needed.

I'm not saying "you can't" but how did you come to that conclusion?:confused:

what I've read is the jack fluid is too caustic or whatever to the rubber seals. you need to use the original Febi or you can substitute AW46 fluid in it's place.

Use Kerry's thread and replace high pressure line, simple and a great DIY. Also check and make sure you have crush washers for the fittings as mine were missing when I replaced mine -good luck, very satisfying job!