striped threads on oil cooler
 

So I was trying to re-install the oil cooler and the lower line wouldn't go on. I pulled it back out, cleaned up the stud with brake parts cleaner and notice a touch of striped threads at the top of the stud. I tried using the new oil line to get the threads started but no luck.
I don't know if I stripped the threads removing the line, trying to get it back on or more likely, that was why it's been leaking at that spot since I bought it. I thought a new hose would take care of things.
Well, I called the only two machine shops in town and they don't deal with metric sizes. I checked a tool store on the way home and they had a tap and dye set that had an 18mm dye in it (I'm guessing that's the size" but it was $87.
I was planning to run the proper sized die down the threads to clean them out. I think I can handle it but I would rather a machine shop do it. If worst come to worse, I'm thinking they could cut of the old piece and weld/braze a piece of aluminum stock on the cooler and thread it. Anyway, I think it would be cheaper than the $550 for a new oil cooler.
So what do you think?
1. Buy the tap and Die set; clean up the threads myself, making sure everything is nice and level as I cut?
2. Find a big city machine shop that has metric tools and could replace the nipple if needed?
3. Spend the $350 for a new oil cooler?
Anybody try this personally?

how about a used oil cooler off eBay ?
I spent $50, have as a spare as my lower connection did not want to seal initially

I don`t know what part of the country you live, but do you have any pick n pull type wrecking yards? I would check there first before buying a new one.
There is a replacement piece for the stripped nipples from MB. I`ll have to check through my notes and find it, it`s some where in my pile scratch paper and stuff:confused:.

when you remove the oil lines the threads sometimes strip being aluminium with the steel line attached. I use some anti siez when I reinstall them.
use a back up wrentch on the oil cooler. a 7/8 inch.

FOUND IT. part number 915013 - 013002.

www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=104244

Post# 5
charlie

Pick n pull is your answer. When you get one- cut the hoses with a knife. Put it on your bench and hacksaw or dremel across the nuts. Spread the threads apart with a screwdriver to keep from wrecking the fragile alloy. In my experience, very few of these will come apart without damaging the threads.

The oil coolers are extremely fragile. I would not attempt the cutting and tapping of one myself and I am an advanced hobbiest. I would recommend getting a good used cooler. be sure to use the second wrench when installing or removing lines on the cooler as you will twist off the fitting and ruin it in a heartbeat if you don't.

Tom W

James,

I have a spare oil cooler, it appears in very good shape. I haven't used it.
Contact me off list and we can discuss. I can ship, its not a heavy item.

Wow, good tip! I have to do this chore soon and hadn't thought of that one.. Thanks.

You folks that don't put your location (unless your in the witness protection program or a dead beat dad) my be missing out on help, someone near by may have the part you need if he knew you were a "neighbor". Just a thought

This approach is not without peril, either. If you cut too deeply across the nuts you could damage the seating bevel or even cut through the alloy entirely. If you nick the threads a bit, that's Ok. The sealing is done inside the bore of the outlet, not the threads.

Rick

The oil cooler is just a cooler...would not a MacParts generic type cooler be made to work with a few clamps and a bit of flexible hose?? This would seem to me to be much more practical than spending 300 bucks on a new MB oil cooler only to be setting yourself up for the exact same problem....or a used one with a questionable life span. However, I am not a MB purest and find my pocket the perfect place for 300 bucks! Do some Southern Engineering and get on down the road. The oil will never know that it is not running thru a gin-u-wine MB cooler.

CRUDE, BUT EFFECTIVE. Old family motto.

Thanks for the suggestions. I live near San Antonio and there is a PICK-N-PULL but I don't think there would be many MB there but it might be worth a look. Maybe next time I'm in Houston or Dallas I'll back a parts grab. I'm going to try to find a used one and get it going. Then I'll try to fix the other one as a spare.
Eric, PM send
Charmalu, thanks for the link
Stevo, I updated my profile just for you.

STEVO, this is good, "Witness protection program". Dead beat? yeah I guess so, Iam retired :D

Charlie

the real deal
 

i had some 'weeping' from my lower oil cooler hose, so replaced it this weekend. the aluminum oil cooler threads were totally MANGLED, so i immediately consulted the forum and considered my options.

MY SOLUTION after some trial + error "research" was to pull out a 22x1.5 DYE and take a deep breath. My oil cooler now has 4 beautiful threads on what once was a pretty sloppy mess. It took quite a while to figure out the right thread diameter/pitch, but that's it: 22 x 1.5.

yeehaw.

Thanks for posting the above info. I is nice to have another alternative.

Had the same type issue a year ago. The solution was to buy repair nipple from MB. Pretty cheap maybe $6. Do a search on this site for the PN. Also bought the correct drill and metric tap from MSD. You cut off the old nipple flush. Drill the hole and tap it. The repair nipple threads in. Of course you need to clean it out very well after the repair. Total cost was approx $70 and I have the drill & tap for future work.