W126 front anti sway bar stud rusted off
 

A fnd's W 126 front anti sway/roll bar stud got rusted off.
Wonder if that can be replaced, looks like it sits inside the frame.
The front ant sway bar hook thru the upper control arm/ball joint.

Anybody done it before?
TIA

www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=144023

Page 2 post#22 there are 2 links of a pictorial and link to fast lane for the part.

cut off the end and weld on the part.

hope this helps.

Charlie

thanks for the link.
i am thinking of cuttting the sway bar end off with a zip grinder. make it real flat and polish the top end of a hex bolt and try glue both together with quick dry jb weld.
this way we didnt heat up the sway bar and when dry it should be as tough as weld.
the sway bar bushing on the problem side has came off, so to re-install the bushing the brake booster may have to come out! thats a big job too.

thanks again for the link.

JB weld will not work to fix the sway bar end, you will need a special repair kit from either this site or the dealer. Call Phil or Roy and ask about it.

Or you can do what we did....replace the entire sway bar. :D :D

click on that same link and click on the link in post #12. the guy
really gets into it.

If I understand your problem, it`s not the end of the sway bar that is your problem. It`s the bushing under the battery and brake booster. you sure JB weld will hold? must be some good stuff.

keep us posted, add some pictures if you can.

Charlie

You can replace the sway bar, its a big job.

Nahhh. :D ;) It was "fun"! ;)

If mine ever breaks I will be replacing the whole bar as well. Its a great opportunity to get everything out of there and clean up everything, treat any rust, and paint it/seal it all up again. Sway bars run about $225+ though. + bushings, and whatever you break when taking the engine compartment apart. :eek: We broke the brake fluid reservoir....but now it has a shiny new one! :D

I'm going to be doing the upper control arms this year and I'm hoping I don't find to much rust. I have pushed the bushings back with a screw driver and the ends look clean. I don't to patch repairs, the only way I'd fix it is replacing the bar. Which is a lot of work. Pulling the IP is a lot of work, I'm not looking forward to doing that.

$225 isn't bad, I'd figure $500. Also don't forget the later W126's have a lot more stuff above it to break. The wires coming out of the fuse box look like a boa! :eek::D

There is a kit by Baum Tools
 

http://www.baumtools.com/pdf/Mercedes_undercar%20Tools.pdf

Might be the one whunter is refering to..

Body art
Thanks thats a real good suggestion, I'll call them to see how much is the piece.
Many tanks

repair kit is sold here for about $128

thank you many many times.
I'll figure out whats the best route.

Just don't use JB Weld. ;)

Didn't know baum had created such a repair kit. That's very cool. I think most folks would be better off going that route rather than following the write-up that I posted. Don't get me wrong, what I did will last many years, but it does require skill with a hand drill that is probably out of reach for a lot of folks. One thing - PLEASE, be careful following the "weld it" procedure for the Baum kit. You are welding to an element that directly impacts your vehicle's handling. I'm sure it can be done right, but ensuring that is YOUR responsibility. Be safe. Thanks.

it looks like it is $128/ side!!

WHUNTER- can you confirm??

at that price, at least on a 123, I would replace the torsion bar. it would cost the same money for all new MB dealer parts, and you get to become familiar with your firewall.

really not too bad of a job for a 123- remove battery tray and the brake booster. unhook all the vac lines, monovalve, prolly a few more things.and you get a nice fresh sway bar.

on a 126 though, I would be tempted to go the baum route.