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W126 front anti sway bar stud rusted off
A fnd's W 126 front anti sway/roll bar stud got rusted off.
Wonder if that can be replaced, looks like it sits inside the frame. The front ant sway bar hook thru the upper control arm/ball joint. Anybody done it before? TIA
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#2
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www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=144023
Page 2 post#22 there are 2 links of a pictorial and link to fast lane for the part. cut off the end and weld on the part. hope this helps. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
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thanks for the link.
i am thinking of cuttting the sway bar end off with a zip grinder. make it real flat and polish the top end of a hex bolt and try glue both together with quick dry jb weld. this way we didnt heat up the sway bar and when dry it should be as tough as weld. the sway bar bushing on the problem side has came off, so to re-install the bushing the brake booster may have to come out! thats a big job too. thanks again for the link.
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#4
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JB weld will not work to fix the sway bar end, you will need a special repair kit from either this site or the dealer. Call Phil or Roy and ask about it.
Or you can do what we did....replace the entire sway bar.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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click on that same link and click on the link in post #12. the guy
really gets into it. If I understand your problem, it`s not the end of the sway bar that is your problem. It`s the bushing under the battery and brake booster. you sure JB weld will hold? must be some good stuff. keep us posted, add some pictures if you can. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
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You can replace the sway bar, its a big job.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
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Nahhh. It was "fun"!
If mine ever breaks I will be replacing the whole bar as well. Its a great opportunity to get everything out of there and clean up everything, treat any rust, and paint it/seal it all up again. Sway bars run about $225+ though. + bushings, and whatever you break when taking the engine compartment apart. We broke the brake fluid reservoir....but now it has a shiny new one!
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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I'm going to be doing the upper control arms this year and I'm hoping I don't find to much rust. I have pushed the bushings back with a screw driver and the ends look clean. I don't to patch repairs, the only way I'd fix it is replacing the bar. Which is a lot of work. Pulling the IP is a lot of work, I'm not looking forward to doing that.
$225 isn't bad, I'd figure $500. Also don't forget the later W126's have a lot more stuff above it to break. The wires coming out of the fuse box look like a boa!
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#9
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#10
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There is a kit by Baum Tools
http://www.baumtools.com/pdf/Mercedes_undercar%20Tools.pdf
Might be the one whunter is refering to..
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~shell As of 2/2010: 2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0 13.6 @ 106mph 10K mi 1984 300SD 260K mi and going and going... 97 S600 46K miles 1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with) www.se-r.net |
#11
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Body art
Thanks thats a real good suggestion, I'll call them to see how much is the piece. Many tanks
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#13
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thank you many many times.
I'll figure out whats the best route.
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#14
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Just don't use JB Weld.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
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Didn't know baum had created such a repair kit. That's very cool. I think most folks would be better off going that route rather than following the write-up that I posted. Don't get me wrong, what I did will last many years, but it does require skill with a hand drill that is probably out of reach for a lot of folks. One thing - PLEASE, be careful following the "weld it" procedure for the Baum kit. You are welding to an element that directly impacts your vehicle's handling. I'm sure it can be done right, but ensuring that is YOUR responsibility. Be safe. Thanks.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
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