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  #1  
Old 02-21-2008, 09:15 AM
I'm thinkin, I'm thinkin.
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 440
Oil Cooler lines... M*&^$#F*()^$R !!!!

So the genius that I am, I decided to start on them at 6pm when I finished my shift. Stupid move.. I didn't undo the motor mount. I'll do that Saturday morning. Using one of our loaners til then. The lines came off the cooler with ease. The filter housing is another story. Got the upper one undone and got so frustrated I just cut it out. The lower line nut at the housing is siezed to the line so it's twisting. I have to get up there and cut the line a few inches from the housing in order to spin it out. BUT, the fitting in the housing is coming with the line. My hopes are that it's threaded into the housing and I can just seperate it from the line when I have it out ? I'm just leaving it on a lift til I come in early Saturday LIKE I SHOULD HAVE... I washed up and left at 9pm in an A3...
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  #2  
Old 02-21-2008, 09:21 AM
Chad300tdt's Avatar
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I read that some guys use a dremel to carefully cut the fittings off. I would try using some penetrating oil and patience. As a last resort, cutting the fitting off is the best shot at keeping the threads intact.
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  #3  
Old 02-21-2008, 09:44 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
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I think you are OK with the scenario as described. The danger is at the cooler end, which you have avoided. The fitting should come off the filter housing ( it is threaded) without incident and then you can deal with it and separate it from the piece of line that you have left with it. I am not sure if those housing fittings are alloy ( I think they are) but they aren't too hard to come by if you wreck one.
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  #4  
Old 02-21-2008, 09:46 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Dallas
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See this thread - post #12

Oil cooler lines - replace both if only one leaks?

Yep - I experienced the same thing two weeks earlier. The fitting on the canister wansts to spin and there is not enough room for a counterhold with a standard size wrench or crowsfoot.

You need a thin wrench. Search "thin" "pump" "hydraulic"

I've been looking at these sets - but I have no experience with Martin Tools:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00930148000P?keyword=metric+thin

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00930147000P?keyword=metric+thin

If you read that link to the forum post you can see what I did, but, if I was to tackle the job again, I'd have a thin wrench ready (I think it was a 22mm) for a counterhold on the fitting.
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  #5  
Old 02-21-2008, 10:19 AM
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I did the lines on my car last summer and I would say they were the biggest PITA job I have done so far. I unbolted the motor mounts and tried jacking up the motor with a floor jack with a 2X8 on top and only managed to collapse the oil pan but the motor never moved. I did find out that you can get the old lines out and the new ones in with the motor in place but it is not easy. To me doing the ball joints and brake support rod joints was a breeze by comparrison.
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  #6  
Old 02-21-2008, 10:22 AM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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I ground down a cheapo wrench and was able to get it off. Heat helps.
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  #7  
Old 02-21-2008, 10:49 AM
I'm thinkin, I'm thinkin.
 
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Location: Arlington, Texas
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Sad point now.. While it's up in the air, I found some rust underneath. Just behind the front wheels on the rockers, under the jack holes I'd say... So my plans to do any major work to this car just got shut down. I figure at least a year before it gets serious so I'll either start the hunt for a good 126 chassis with a blown motor and do a powertrain swap or just find a good "down south" car.. I bought this car in Jersey last year before I moved...
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  #8  
Old 02-21-2008, 10:57 AM
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Location: Dallas
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bummer about the rust

Well at least you have some good support in DFW if you need help down the road (seems to be quite a lot of us forum folks in the area).

As Armando has mentioned, we need to do a get-together. Maybe if I get a new grill this spring we can have burgers and beer at my pad.
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As of 2/2010:
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  #9  
Old 02-21-2008, 11:20 AM
pawoSD's Avatar
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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A little rust under the rockers is enough for you to abandon a car? wow....in Michigan we'd not even call that rust....and we'd fix it!
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  #10  
Old 02-21-2008, 11:37 AM
I'm thinkin, I'm thinkin.
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
A little rust under the rockers is enough for you to abandon a car? wow....in Michigan we'd not even call that rust....and we'd fix it!

Rockers and the left front chassis "rail" so to speak, as well as around the left tail light, small section of the left trunk channel and under the rear glass. More than a little my friend but less than a lot. I just don't really want to spend $10G's to fix rust & repaint this car. I'd rather just find a better chassis and swap the powertrain or get another car altogether. Engine and trans are powerful and strong but I just don't want to go that far. I was prepared to handle the tail light/trunk/window area but this throws a wrench into the machinery..
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Sharing my partner's 2012 Forte 5dr SX til I find my next 123 or 126..
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  #11  
Old 02-23-2008, 06:45 PM
I'm thinkin, I'm thinkin.
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 440
DONE !!!! But I didn't remove the motor mount. My a/c compressor is seized anyway so I removed that and the bracket. Snaked right thru. If your compressor ever goes and your cooler lines are original, replace them then..
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