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EGR/Emissions removal 1981 300SD
where do I start, a link would be much appreciated, I would like to pull off anything remotely emissions related.
I'm new to MB's, new to diesels, not new to cars, or turbos. Thanks Last edited by 12MPGHWY; 02-22-2008 at 07:19 AM. |
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Welcome aboard!
Start with the search function, there are many threads detailing this topic. |
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I did search, how about some more specific questions. Can I just take the EGR off and block off the intake and exhaust ports for it and get rid off all vacum lines that connect too it?
Will there be any down side to this? Does EGR have anything to do with boost control in this car? Are there any other emissions components on the car, and what is ALDA? |
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Simply trace vac lines back to their source and block, no problems.
EGR, best removal is early 1980 to 1978 300SD manifolds or the kit from Brian on here. Brian's is easiest and most cost efficient for your time.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
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Cool thanks easy.
Why did you remove the ALDA? What did you replace it with? |
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More fuel off boost. It works almost as well with a maxed out ALDA and a slightly turned up IP... with the boost cut if needed when overboost.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
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The turbo I use provides all the air my engine needs at a low RPM.
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So essentially the engine is fully enriched all the time?
Forgive me for all the questions, Ive tuned a number of turbo gas cars in the 300-500 WHP range, I'm used to looking at injection time's and correction maps and such. I do understand the basic concept of how a diesel engine works, I just have to learn the specifics of the system. |
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In a way. Your right foot controls the actual fuel quantity, the pump just runs as if the engine has full boost available.
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Thanks I did this this morning.
I removed the black box on the valve cover and capped or plugged all vacuum lines that connected to it. This was mentioned in several of the threads found through search. |
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Did you remove the ALDA?
I read in some post that Brian (I think?) had his setting on the shelf. I wonder what he used to cover the space or hole it left behind.
Did you remove the EGR or just disconnect? Does it matter? |
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I removed the bellows inside the ALDA and use the empty body as a cover.
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If this question is for me, then I removed the EGR, no sence in having a non functional part when 5 minutes time and and a pennies worth of aluminum will make you a block off plate.
What prompted me to do it was the EGR leaking exhaust. |
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To control emissions, the engine uses an EGR system that allows exhaust gases to enter the manifold and cool the charge. We've generally agreed that removing the EGR is the best for the engine in the long run in terms of less accumulation in the intake manifold. To eliminate the EGR, you can do it one of two ways: 1) To stop the flow of exhaust gas, just pull the hose off the EGR valve and plug the hose with a golf tee. Done. Nothing quicker and more simple than this. 2) If you want a better look under the hood, you can eliminate the valve completely with one of my kits. It substututes a stainless steel plate for the valve and provides a means of blocking the exhaust port as well. Search under my name and "EGR" for all the details on these kits. Once the EGR valve is removed, you can also remove all the hoses that lead to and from the black box to provide a cleaner underhood environment. If you go this route, let me know and I'll give you the details. A mistake here can be problematic as you can cause a massive vacuum leak if you do it incorrectly. Removal of the ALDA is a completely different discussion. This device limits the fuel at low rpm's when the engine has little boost and insufficient air to use all the fuel. This can be done on the OM617 but the chances are that the engine will smoke severely at low rpm's. You'd need to be a very careful driver and not use more than 1/3 pedal until the rpm's come up. In reality, it's preferable to adjust the ALDA properly rather than remove it on the OM617. However, I've gone counter to this advice on the OM603 and removed it altogether with great success. So, YMMV if you decide to do this modification. If you choose to adjust the ALDA, search on "ALDA" and be sure you understand the sensitivity of the adjusting screw. It doesn't like to turn and it's easy to break it. Be patient and careful. Also, remember that the forum is not just a place to seek advice. Your results are valuable for other members, especially with regard to the ALDA if you decide to remove it. Return to the thread and close it out with your progress. |
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