Mechanic put in green coolant???
 

I just had my radiator replaced, before summer. I just noticed today that my mechanic at Austin Auto Haas but in green coolant. It's the weekend, so I haven't called. But I had MB coolant in before. That stuff isn't cheap. I should have told him I wanted the MB, but I just thought he would use it.

So is it okay to have the green stuff in, i was under the understanding that this would damage my car.

It won't damage it. The MB coolant is just what supposed to be used.

I've been running the green stuff since 05 in the 300D, and it had it when I bought it. The 240D that I bought in 06 is the same. So far, so good. I'll be replacing some coolant hoses in the 300D when Brown brings them to my house, and filling the coolant with some Zerex G05. The branded Merc coolant isn't much more expensive, but I would have to drive to Reno to get it.

The only engine I've heard of that has bona fide coolant issues is the 7.3 IDI International, due to the thin cylinder walls.

I think it matters if you have the aluminum head or block.

Tom W

Personally, I would run the correct coolant. It's cheap and easy to replace the green junk with the MB coolant.

OM61X engines have the iron head AND block.
OM60X engines have the iron block and aluminum head.

After recently experiencing firsthand the effects of coolant neglect on my 71 250C (Fe block, Al head), I'd be reticent to use anything other than MB coolant in a OM60X. Thanks a bunch PO.....

I make it a point to use MB coolant in all my Fe/Al car's engines, and for good measure, I use it in the 83 300D as well.

Much cheaper than having to have the head rebuilt because of missing material due to galvanic corrosion.....

If you are anal about frequent coolant flushes, you *might* get away with green coolant, but the cost factor advantage goes away with frquency, so might as well use the right stuff......

Jim

Jim is right, you should be using the approved coolant for your engine. Think about it this way, would you decide that it was alright to use some other spec. transmission fluid - other than what is called for? The MB stuff - or the cheaper Zerex G-05, which is the same stuff - is specially designed for to protect a variety of metals. It is low silicate, low pH and phosphate free. So, I don't know what is called for in your model, but mine specifies this type due to the Fe block and Al head and that's all I will put in it. Oh, and be sure to dilute 50/50 with water - running straight coolant dosen't help you unless you live close to the arctic circle and its not really that great for your engine either.

According to my information, straight coolant is never a good thing. The anticorrosion chemicals apparently need at least a 30% mix of water in order to function as they should.

I also think running the correct MB coolant is good for the plastic tanks on the radiator. Keeps it from deteriorating in the long run.

You are right, but he was just saying that 100% coolant will only cool better than a 50/50 mix in deep sub-zero temperatures.

I have been running green coolant in my wagon for a couple years how with no ill affects. I don't honestly think it makes any difference, as along as it was quality coolant.

Coolant type and water makes a different.




http://mastertechtrans.com/post/AntiFreeDec04.pdf

G-05 is like $3/gal more than the cheeepest green stuff. why not use the G-o5/? cost is really nothing over a 2-3 year change cycle. I switched all our cars to zerex- I dont have to keep 2 different products in stock.

but in your case- prolly hasn't hurt anything yet, but I would change it out by next fall.

If yours has the alum head, then I'd go back to the MB stuff. But in my stable of 82-25, 617's, I've run nearly a half million miles since April of '01 on the green stuff. 50/50.

diesel don

Green or orange, it doesnt matter until you start running alluminum heads/blocks. Ive been running green crap in my car for over three years now, no issues, no pocketing or anything of the sort. (And i have the torn down engine to prove it.)