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-   -   Slow to Go /Help a turtle out (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/215006-slow-go-help-turtle-out.html)

chasinthesun 02-28-2008 09:22 AM

Slow to Go /Help a turtle out
 
Newly aquired 85 300d ,pulls fine til 10mph then feels like it goes into tortoise mode.Fuel related? I have replaced the small main filter but not the spin on one.Ill be doing the banjo bolt clean out today but was checking in with you guys for clues to check for.The car drove fine on its first few drives,just trying to get the bugs out of her and it seems that I have found one.

bobodaclown 02-28-2008 09:46 AM

Change out filters (fuel and Air)
Check your turbo boost (boost gauge)
Valve Job
ALDA Adjustment

Not in any particular order. But there are a few things to do.
Are you getting smoke from the tail pipe?

ForcedInduction 02-28-2008 09:57 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by bobodaclown (Post 1777324)
ALDA Adjustment

The ALDA should be the last thing to adjust. It is only a band-aid to cover up other problems.

Sudden power loss is usually a filter. You should also check the rubber linkage damper (Seen in the top right of the picture) on the firewall for cracks or splits.

Biodiesel300TD 02-28-2008 10:27 AM

The tank screen could possible be clogged as well. But I would first change out the spin on filter and then go from there.

ARINUTS 02-28-2008 10:35 AM

sounds like you are not getting enough fuel. check all the vacuum lines, especially the Banjo bolt and the line going to the ALDA. I had a similar situation and the rubber line going to the ALDA had a small crack in it.

chasinthesun 02-28-2008 10:39 AM

Roger that guys,rubber bushing linkage is easy enough ,spin on filter then the tank screen .Alda would come last ,thanks.The clear filter did look nasty ,I might have the nasties lurking inside ,whats my steps if its the algea.

mobetta 02-28-2008 10:41 AM

and if that dont do it, try the tank strainer. sure sounds like a clogged fuel filter.

fungus- well- you acn drop the tank and have it cleaned. or get some biocide- i use biobor jf from west marine or boatersworld.com and add a shock dose( do not over do it w/ this stuff, 1 pint treats 800gal, 400gal @ shock dose level)

when you do this, fill the tank absolutely full to get the biocide in all the nooks and crannies. drive a lil bit to mix it up, and park it for a day or 2. have plenty of inline filters on hand, and always carry a spare of each w/ you, along w/ the tools to change them. ( a 4 way screwdriver + cresent wrench, and a pint of ATF or seafoam to fill the filter are always in my car)

At one point, I did not go 50 miles w/ out changing my inline. at this stage in the game, it is way cheeper to use brake cleaner or carb cleaner to clean and reuse the inline filters. I have also soaked them in mineral spirits, then blow out w/ compressed air. not everyone will agree w/ this, but spending $3(local price) every 50 miles on a filter don't cut it for me.

looking back, I think dropping(TD) and cleaning the tank would have been way easier.....changing a filter on the side of the hiway in the middle of the nite in the rain suxxxx.........

good luck,mo

Diesel911 02-28-2008 10:59 AM

Try driving without the fuel tank cap on to see if your tank vent is plugged up. If you care runs better the vent is plugged up.

chasinthesun 02-28-2008 11:41 AM

ball joint link,check,spin on,check,tank screen ,check,banjo bolt ,check,gas cap,check,alda line,check.It feels like a fuel problem and with the clear filter showing signs Im most likely in for a tank dropper.Any suggestions on steps cleaning out a tank? Ive cleaned an old mustang tank out before but really didnt care for using the muratic acid they prescribed.Do you recommend a drive to the car wash with some bio-d ?

barry123400 02-28-2008 12:57 PM

Try to avoid using muturic acid. Otherwise known as hydrocloric acid. Gas and diesel tanks use steel that is coated with lead on both sides of the steel to prevent rusting.
The acid is aggressive enough to eat the lead coating. Since the 1950s this coating has been much, much thinner. That said if you do have massive problems and clean with that acid you have to chemically install a new tank liner. Better at that point to just get a good used tank if possible.
Old diesel residue should respond well to steam cleaning for example. Or perhaps a gallon of solvent sloshed around inside to loosen everything up and then washed out. Come to think of it vegatable oil might cut the diesel residue as well but I suspect might be too slow.
Many times an unused gas tank sitting for years has no actual rust. What looks like rust is the dried out gas residue leaving quite a deposit behind. Looks brownish/black in color.
Test removal of this with laquer thinner before doing anything that might damage the inner lead liner. I have played with more than a few gas tanks over the years myself. If it is rust the laquer thinner will not change color. It has no effect at all upon rust.

Chad300tdt 02-28-2008 01:08 PM

If you need to clean the tank, take it to a radiator shop to boil it out. Then use POR-15 tank sealer. A tank sealer will need about a week to cure before adding fuel again.:)

lutzTD 02-28-2008 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chasinthesun (Post 1777301)
Newly aquired 85 300d ,pulls fine til 10mph then feels like it goes into tortoise mode.Fuel related? I have replaced the small main filter but not the spin on one.Ill be doing the banjo bolt clean out today but was checking in with you guys for clues to check for.The car drove fine on its first few drives,just trying to get the bugs out of her and it seems that I have found one.


mine was the same at first. turned out to be the boost safety changeover valve. start at the banjo bolt on the manifold, remove it and clean it. follow the line to the boost changeover valve and remove the line. blow through the line to make sure it is clear. remove the other line from the safetly changeover valve then remove the banjo from the ALDA. blow through this line. then attach a clean line to the valve, apply 12v to the valve and blow through it. since mine was bad 12v caused it to click but no air went through, not sure if it defaults to open or closed but whichever it is the 12v should change it. if you cant get air through it thats your issue. connect the manifold line to the alda line with a rubber line and test drive. this disables the overboost safelty so order a new valve.

chasinthesun 02-29-2008 01:20 PM

Banjo bolt was badly clogged ,blew out the airfilter ,not so bad, still no luck .Ill be getting the rest of the list done today .Im pulling it in for a fluid change and will be underneath to make some front end todos also.

chasinthesun 03-03-2008 09:06 AM

Beasties ,Im in them knee deep.Put a new clear filter and it was clogging after just 3 miles.I guess this car was sitting up for a while .The little black bee bees came pouring out of the old filter and the tank must be full of them.OH BOY! another project ,Ive never cleaned out for the algea ,do I clean out the lines while Im their?

bobodaclown 03-03-2008 09:59 AM

When your knee deep in the beasties find a log to stand on. And be thankful their not waist high.

Here's a couple of links about people that have had this problem:
With Pictures Cool:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/115952-filters-fungus-biocide-etc.html?highlight=algicide

Pick up a bunch of filters.....

It should be a nice ride once you get the beasties....But remember any vehicle over 15 years old is a project.....


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