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  #1  
Old 02-29-2008, 01:06 AM
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Does she suck enough ?

While I await the shop manual let me run one past the 240D gurus here.

I was told when I bought her that the vac pump was gone, today I hooked up a gauge/pump to test, I sampled in the main line to the brake booster, after about 30 sec I get 20" reading, when I dump and resample while running, back to 20" in a second, is 20" high/low/normal ?

2nd, when I turn her off, takes about 3-4sec to drop to 0", I'm thinking mabey a bad booster ?, thoughts ?.

Starts when using block heater in about 5sec, wont start with out, checked glow plugs, 11.3 volts on 3, 2 volts on one, have new ones on order, will 1 bad plug stop these from starting cold ?, batt reads 13v in the morning before starting, 13.8v running, seems to be cranking fast enough but then I am new to the Benz oil burners, thanks in advance for any/all input.

Don
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  #2  
Old 02-29-2008, 01:13 AM
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20" of vacuum is fine. Leak could be anywhere so I wouldn't condemn the booster without testing it independently which you can do with the MityVac.

What year is the car? Does it have the loop plugs or pencil plugs? Loop plugs have heavy squiggly resistor wires that go from plug to plug with the front plug grounded to the block.
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  #3  
Old 02-29-2008, 01:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
20" of vacuum is fine. Leak could be anywhere so I wouldn't condemn the booster without testing it independently which you can do with the MityVac.

What year is the car? Does it have the loop plugs or pencil plugs? Loop plugs have heavy squiggly resistor wires that go from plug to plug with the front plug grounded to the block.

1980 vintage, yes I was using the mityvac, going to check the booster straight tomorrow when I get new hose, the ones on it are rock hard and I'm guessing britle.

Yes they are the loop type, I have pencil type ordered, they are not wired together in series, a loom type wire coming from the drivers fender well (relay box ?) branching off with a different wire to each, the second one back from the front is the dead one.
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  #4  
Old 02-29-2008, 10:55 AM
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Oh, I was hoping for a more interesting discussion. Sorry, must be on the wrong forum!

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  #5  
Old 02-29-2008, 10:59 AM
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Since the loop type is a series, when one GP goes out, the others after it also will not operate. Just like Christmas lights when one goes out.
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  #6  
Old 02-29-2008, 11:03 AM
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From your description of the wiring harness, you should already have pencil type plugs. If you have loop plugs hooked up without the heavy resistor wires passing from plug to plug, I don't believe the system will work well, if at all.
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  #7  
Old 02-29-2008, 11:11 AM
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Your pump and booster sound fine to me. If you weren't getting 20" on the main vac line then I would persue the pump or the booster, but since you get 20" they should both be fine. The slow shutting down is going to be a leak somewhere else in the system. Try hooking your mity vac up to the shut-off valve on the back of the injection pump. Then start the car. They give the mity vac a pump. It should only take one or two pumps and the car should shut down immedetely(sp?). If it take more than two pumps or it still stumbles to a stop then the shut-off valve it bad. If it shuts off properly you'll need to investigate the rest of the vac system.
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  #8  
Old 02-29-2008, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
Your pump and booster sound fine to me. If you weren't getting 20" on the main vac line then I would persue the pump or the booster, but since you get 20" they should both be fine. The slow shutting down is going to be a leak somewhere else in the system. Try hooking your mity vac up to the shut-off valve on the back of the injection pump. Then start the car. They give the mity vac a pump. It should only take one or two pumps and the car should shut down immedetely(sp?). If it take more than two pumps or it still stumbles to a stop then the shut-off valve it bad. If it shuts off properly you'll need to investigate the rest of the vac system.
I must have worded that wrong, I was talking about taking 3-4 sec for the vac to drop to zero, it won't shut off with key at all, only manually under the hood, also hard brakes, feels like weak booster, and weird shifting if left in drive, when I shift manual it does OK, this is what started the hunt, I'll try and shut her down with the mityvac (why does that just sound wrong) and let you know......again thanks all for the help.
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  #9  
Old 02-29-2008, 12:32 PM
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the GP's with the fender mounted relay box and set of wires from that box are pencil plugs, easy way to tell is by the size of the GP's if the wrench to pull the plug is 10mm then it's definately pencils. if it is a 17mm wrench, they could still be pencils, you just have to look at the length of the stud the wire is connected to. if the stud is 10mm, long it's pencil, if it's 30mm long it's a series plug. if you do have series plugs hooked up to a fender relay. they ain't working...
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Old 02-29-2008, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moviking View Post
I must have worded that wrong, I was talking about taking 3-4 sec for the vac to drop to zero, it won't shut off with key at all, only manually under the hood, also hard brakes, feels like weak booster, and weird shifting if left in drive, when I shift manual it does OK, this is what started the hunt, I'll try and shut her down with the mityvac (why does that just sound wrong) and let you know......again thanks all for the help.
The way to test the booster is to plug your mityvac in to the main vac line plugging any other ports that are on the main vac line. With the car running you should get 20" or more of vac.
If the booster was leaking or the vac pump was failing you would get a significantly less reading with the mityvac. One way to check the booster itself is to unscrew the main vac line from the booster and plug the end of the vac line. Then start the car again and read the mity vac. If the reading jumps up your booster is leaking. But I'm guessing it isn't because you are getting 20" with it plugged in.
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  #11  
Old 02-29-2008, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
the GP's with the fender mounted relay box and set of wires from that box are pencil plugs, easy way to tell is by the size of the GP's if the wrench to pull the plug is 10mm then it's definately pencils. if it is a 17mm wrench, they could still be pencils, you just have to look at the length of the stud the wire is connected to. if the stud is 10mm, long it's pencil, if it's 30mm long it's a series plug. if you do have series plugs hooked up to a fender relay. they ain't working...
From your description they must be pencils, I have'nt pulled them yet, waiting for the brown truck to come with the new ones, and hunting my leak, thanks for letting me know how to ID em without pulling, trying to work on this one in my spare time.
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  #12  
Old 02-29-2008, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
The way to test the booster is to plug your mityvac in to the main vac line plugging any other ports that are on the main vac line. With the car running you should get 20" or more of vac.
If the booster was leaking or the vac pump was failing you would get a significantly less reading with the mityvac. One way to check the booster itself is to unscrew the main vac line from the booster and plug the end of the vac line. Then start the car again and read the mity vac. If the reading jumps up your booster is leaking. But I'm guessing it isn't because you are getting 20" with it plugged in.

Thanks, I'll try and post findings.
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  #13  
Old 02-29-2008, 08:29 PM
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O.K. Isolated booster, it's good

Brown line coming through firewall from key switch to IP has 0" vac with key on, turn off and it gets 20", so I guess I need to replace what it hooks to, this is called ?

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  #14  
Old 02-29-2008, 08:34 PM
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that is your shut off valve. if it is getting vac to it, and not shutting down, I'd say she's toast.
there is a particular method for replacement- do a search, or i think it is in the wiki
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  #15  
Old 02-29-2008, 08:40 PM
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Usually when that valve fails you have oil in that brown line. Best way to diagnose it is to pull the brown line off the shutoff valve, hook up a Mityvac or other vacuum pump to the valve, start car, turn off the key and supply a vacuum to the shutoff valve and see if car shuts down. It sounds though like you have trouble shot it to the valve from the other direction, which appears effective.
Also check the line for oil, you might have to flush them.
Mine dripped oil from the key switch {on to my leg!!}
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